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Motion Lever Shaft, Oil Seal replacement?

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Hey Fellas. 

So Im in the process of getting my 1990 (41-20OE01) 520h operating properly and leak free. After a cleaning the whole machine up including the engine to find any leaks, I'm going at them one by one. Currently working a tiny leak coming from the top of the transmission. It's the oil seal around the motion Lever Shaft (vertical). After running the machine on jacks and building pressure, running the trans forward and backward I can shut down the engine and hear a small leak of air coming from this seal. There's trans oil slowly oozing out of the top... 


The part number is ER92999. Anyone replace this before? Shouldnt be any different that say an axle oil seal. 


Andrew C.

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WOW, just hunted this thread down in my profile and in 2 days this will be exactly a year later for the update... 

Okay, so I ordered the seals and got them... Couldn't find a puller. Found a puller, brought it home and couldn't find the seals... smh 

Ordered more seals, got them in and just today started in on the replacement of this upper speed control arm shaft oil seal on the eaton 1100 hydro trans. 

PULLER Didn't work. went out to a couple of stores and found a bolt driven tie rod puller and two differently sized pitman arm pullers. The larger one worked and was 1 5/16" width at the opening. 

 HERE is the short quick and dirty short thread about it. With a little explanation. 

Okay, so now that the speed control arm is pulled. I'm done for the night to let things cool off and wind down from other events. 
This seal has definitely been leaking still. it's caked and this was after wiping it a bit was the arm popped off. 

I just wanted to update my venture on this and there's more to come over the next couple of days. 

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Just a thought, do these transmissions have any sort of air vent ?


I would think as it heated up, it would build pressure that even a good seal might have trouble coping with.



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I wouldn't think so being a hydraulic pump... 


So I tore into this small seal replacement today but took a trip to the tool shop and picked up a seal remover. And WOW. So much better than prying it out with screw drivers... smh. 


I first wiping off the old seal and the shaft a well as used some parts cleaner and compressed air as I wasn't sure what was underneath and if anything could fall into the unit itself. 

Al that it took was a small screwdriver to punch through the seal and lightly tapped the seal puller through and put some pressure on the handle with a few slightly harder pulls and she popped right out. 

 The old seal was very loose and even had a couple of broken sections to at least outer dust seal lip. 




I cleaned up the shaft and found a nice little cavity that just needed a little cleaning. 

The shaft was pretty dirty from all of the leaking and grime. 


I used some 320 grit sandpaper and folded it into about a 5/16" strip and began to polish up the shaft as well as I could. it was a bit in so much that I even went as far as climbing on the tractor over the hood with my feet on the footrest stretched over the steering wheel to clean from all directions! lol I followed that same procedure with some 600 grit as well as used some emery cloth to remove any sharp edges from the top of the shaft and the key way and used more carb/parts cleaner and quickly blew it out with compressed air a few times. Worked great!

It's not perfect like an axle or crank but doesn't really need to be as it's not constantly spinning. 



I cleaned up the area well including the new seal and made sure to follow SOP and pack between the inner seal and outer dust lips with grease to ensure a seal. 


I also made sure to cover the key way with some electrical tape as usual to protect the new seal during installation. 



You will need some sort of longer cylinder, preferably with a wider rim to stop pushing the seal down once it reaches the top of the pump housing. Being that I'm currently restoring my Snow Thrower I used a collar from one of the bears and placed the flat side down against the seal and then place an 11/16" spark plug socket over that and it fit right into the grove on the other side of collar. 


I gave the socket a few rounds of firm taps and vuala! She was nice and flush. 


So at this point I pulled the tractor out into the yard in a safe area away from everything and carefully started up the tractor standing clear of all possible movement of the tractor. Little did I know that the pump automatically moves to neutral on it's on so I was safe. 

I let the tractor run to warm up and the ran WOT for over 5 minutes to ensure that the pressure built up enough to show any leaking as it did before. Sure enough the seal fixed the leak.... At least here. ;) I may have one more on the side of transaxle housing around the brake drum. but for now this will stop any more seeping and sludge collection in and around the fins of the Eaton 1100. 

 This photo was after the test in the yard. Dry as a bone I did use the control arm during the test as when the Rpm's were high it would want to creep a little in reverse. 


When all was said and done and reinstalled the seat and gave the tractor a quick wipe down and quick turtle waxing before it left the garage. 

 This photo was later this evening when putting everything and tractor running at idle fro about 10 minutes while trying to encourage my 312-8 to start as I left her and the 416-8 outside for the last two days behind the shed while making this repair. She wasn't happy and didn't want to start and even back talked to me with a backfire!? THAT has never happened since I've owned it. it doesn't like damp environments is all I can figure. smh.  Lesson learned!


So, in conclusion I hope this thread eventually helps someone out in the future that may come across this issue like I did. I ahve to say that someone must have taken care of this ole 1990 520h as she is 1 hour away from 2400hrs and it runs strong and is pretty good shape other than the few leaks that I have fixed which were all oil seals and one rear bearing plate gasket. :)

Thanks for letting me share the experience!

Edited by Mastiffman
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Nice write up and great work following the standard seal installation procedures - especially filling the back side of the seal at the ring spring , many folks miss that and those springs love to pop off the rubber section when you drive the seal home , leading to a failure later .


If you have backfires in damp weather - probably a plug wire starting to get cracked and allowing water to ground it or arc the cable - this will fire the plug at the wrong time or delay the spark off-time and cause that . Fire it up on a damp evening in the dark and look those wires over - you'll see the arcing and sometimes you'll be surprised how bad they can be . Or , if you're adventurous - grab the wires when it's running on a damp day , it will tell you if they are going bad right quick...just don't do it on really high powered ignitions , it can stop your heart , lol.....



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Thanks. I've learned quite a bit with these tractor and from this site so I owe what I share to you all.

Yeah that will be next on the list. I'm sure that's what the case is. 

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