wessex horse 15 #1 Posted November 2, 2016 I have had lots of help and suggestions on here re wheelweights and alternatives, for which thanks. Now, I have gathered a fair weight of scrap lead with the idea of filling the wheels with it. What I now need explained is...... If I just cast the lead into a large lump and tag it all on to the back of my Horse somehow, will that have the same benefit to traction as wheel wieghts would? The only fault I have with my horse is the lack of a lockable diff [ok I bet some guy out there has made one ] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 19,595 #2 Posted November 2, 2016 I'm not a fan of hanging weights off the rear of our Wheel Horses. First off it will lighten the front end. Second it puts all that added weight on the rear axle bearings. Weights mound in the rear rim don't do either of those things. Mike...... 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #3 Posted November 2, 2016 Cast your lead in a 10 inch fry pan. Then drill and bolt them to your rear wheels. Wayne 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #4 Posted November 2, 2016 What Mike said! But don't forget about filling tires! Doesn't have to be corrosive calcium chloride! RV antifreeze is cheap and still adds quite a bit of weight. A pair of tubes, some RV antifreeze and a tire filler bleeder valve is still cheaper than you can usually buy weights. AND! You can STILL add weights! 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,264 #5 Posted November 2, 2016 I'm with Mike and Dennis on this one...not a fan of hanging weights on the back under any circumstances, and RV antifreeze works really well for filling tires, just out of curiosity, does anyone know how much additional weight can be gained by filling tires? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #6 Posted November 3, 2016 Even though I would say the consensus is to add weight to the tires my favorite WH, the 522XI, came with Toro rear brackets and a BIG weight box for counter balancing the big 2 stage snow blower. Not sure how much weight but a lot and all Toro's idea! I'm wondering. How much weight/strain does a rear garden plow put on the rear axle bearings? What's the difference between that and the counter weight issues we are trying to avoid? Wheel Horses have spent all day trying to drag the entire earth into a different rotation and they come back to do it again! Are we overthinking this? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classicdmax 190 #7 Posted November 3, 2016 Isn't there another alternative out there called rim saver or something similar....what's the difference in weight and cost vs rv antifreeze? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 722 #8 Posted November 3, 2016 1 hour ago, Professor1990 said: just out of curiosity, does anyone know how much additional weight can be gained by filling tires? I was able to get 9 gallons into a 23x10.50 firestone on a 10.5" wide rim. That "should be 70ish #. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,609 #9 Posted November 3, 2016 58 minutes ago, classicdmax said: Isn't there another alternative out there called rim saver or something similar....what's the difference in weight and cost vs rv antifreeze? The product is called Rim Guard, it weights about 10lbs per gallon. Water is 8lbs per gallon. I'm not sure on the price of Rim Guard, the couple places I did check showed it to be more expensive than calcium chloride. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #10 Posted November 3, 2016 (edited) The RimGuard website has a chart for tire capacity. I think I paid less than $4 per gallon to have it installed two years ago. Edited November 3, 2016 by Fun Engineer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ironhorse1077 21 #11 Posted November 3, 2016 11lbs./gallon, non-toxic (unlike calcium chloride or RV anyifreeze), and a freezing temp. of -35F makes Rim Guard a no-brainer if you can find it. If not, you could juice your own beets,... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,807 #12 Posted November 3, 2016 I have a weight box on the rear to counter the loader. Recently, the left rear transmission case developed a crack, and I think that the twist from weight far back is the reason. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,348 #13 Posted November 3, 2016 Rim Guard is probably your best choice since it's designed for the purpose. RV antifreeze is another good choice and cheaper. It's not toxic. With anything I would suggest using tubes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #14 Posted November 3, 2016 18 hours ago, Thor27 said: I was able to get 9 gallons into a 23x10.50 firestone on a 10.5" wide rim. That "should be 70ish #. 9 gallons of antifreeze (9.33lbs per gallon) would equal out to 83.97 lbs that is a good amount of weight. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #15 Posted November 3, 2016 I filled my C160 tires with RV antifreeze l think there 23-8.50 x 12 but I did add tube's first. I got 4.5 gallons in each tire then I put on the chains. I only spun the tires 1 time last winter . They work very good in the winter. I just put them on the c160 and it is a job getting them on. I take them off in spring . I got rv antifreeze for $1.00 a gallon at ace last year . Only way to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wessex horse 15 #16 Posted November 3, 2016 thanks for the input chaps. Here in the UK antifreeze is a no no..... $1 an gallon? $15 a gallon more like. Other products like rim guard are unheard of; but we do have a lot of water I am sticking with the lead,why did I not think of a frying pan? I been looking for a saucepan of suitable size. I reckon I can cast an brake disc into the lead as well. Is there an optimum weight? or just as heavy as you can get? Reason I wondered about bolting the weight to the rear end is that most times when I lose grip on one wheel, [chevron tractor tread], I just sit on the fender over that wheel, which, usually gets me moving. Bye the Bye today I made a wheelhorse convert, guy working nearby was most impressed by weight i was pulling, made his silly plastic Toro look like a toy. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #17 Posted November 4, 2016 I have read some posts about guys making wheel weights from lead . I was thinking on the same line but I just happened to pick some 35 or 40 pounders up at a action sale for $25.00. Plus the filled tires would give me about 75 or 80 pounds per tire. You could also make them from concrete. I just painted these red so they look more wheel horsey. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #18 Posted November 5, 2016 Pick up a pair of scrap yard brake drums. I've done a few sets years ago. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,986 #19 Posted November 5, 2016 The best part about the filled wheels is once you get rolling the fluid builds up inertia. When you hit the snow pile the inertia will help propel you further. Just like someone giving you a push. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,954 #20 Posted November 5, 2016 Just remember... Newton's third law. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #21 Posted November 5, 2016 1 hour ago, AMC RULES said: Just remember... Newton's third law. I have read some posts about guys making wheel weights from lead . I was thinking on the same line but I just happened to pick some 35 or 40 pounders up at a action sale for $25.00. Plus the filled tires would give me about 75 or 80 pounds per tire. You could also make them from concrete. I just painted these red so they look more wheel horsey. AMC Rules I had the same thing on both my C160's. I read it is a common problem. I made a 1/2 in plate and welded it on frame . There is a post here somewhere on how to make that plate, But I know you with all your posts already know the fix. On my 1995 520h it was added at the factory so wheel horse knew about it also. I think every one that uses a plow,tiller or blower needs to check that plate for cracks. All that weight we add will take it's toll someday. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff R. 35 #22 Posted November 5, 2016 AMC Rules/Bob, Were is this plate located on a C series tractor?? Thanks in advance. Jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,954 #23 Posted November 5, 2016 Where the trans mounts to the frame. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,619 #24 Posted November 5, 2016 (edited) Twenty years ago I made cast concrete weights for my c120.The 101 has them on there now.Take a 10" plastic dinner plate and four equal lengths of 1/2'' pipe.Drill four holes in the plate to allow the pipes to go through.Four carrage bolts through the pipes to clamp them in place on the rim.Lay the rim flat and drop in the dinner plate.Line the rim with some flashing so that the weight won't adhere to the rim.Fill the rim face with concrete.The nice thing with this is that it costs almost nothing and the concrete weight can be made to any depth from a few inches to several inches past the outer rim surface.Lead chunks or scrapmetal like old bolts or nuts can be added to the concrete mix to increase weight.JAinVA Edited November 5, 2016 by JAinVA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #25 Posted November 5, 2016 12 hours ago, Tankman said: Pick up a pair of scrap yard brake drums. I've done a few sets years ago. What did you use for a mold? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites