Leaking transmission

[classicdmax 190]

My tractor has been sitting for a few weeks, and upon trying to fit my new rear wheels which don't fit, I noticed the existing tire to have trans fluid weeping done the sides. I removed wheel, and tried to remove hub from spindle to no avail. Yes I did loosen the set screw and beat it around a bit. I didn't want wail on it too much and damage something....is it just stuck?

 

anyhow, the leaking is not a new issue, seems to have a lot of prior history of leaking. Is there an "easy" fix to this

 

thanks

It's a 73' 16h hydro

[Aldon 4,828]

Hubs are the BANE of anyone working on these things. They seize onto axles and you cant beat on them excessively as that can damage the bearings.

 

Whats leaking based on your description is the axle seals that are easy to replace once the offending hub is removed.

 

Use the search function as there are many threads covering the topic and many show the fixtures and backyard engineering that has been developed by those on this forum to assist.

 

I use a hydraulic puller and it has removed several hubs with little effort and usually in less than 5 minutes. Look for Hydraulic Puller in the tools section.

 

However, I am in process of changing seals on my worker GT14 dubbed Lazarus and while one hub cam off within the 5 minutes time the right side is on day two of penetrating oil and moderate heat to try and get it to loosen to where my 10 ton puller makes it budge. I am now contemplating how many days to soak before I acquiesce and cut the hub free. Luckily I have a spare.

Edited October 6, 2016 by Aldon

[Aldon 4,828]

Came home for lunch and decided to add some pressure to this rig while I was here. 

 

Viola!

 

It may not be obvious but this hub is now broken free and has mover at least a couple inches. I'll free it completely later after work. 

 

This is the closest I have come to this hydraulic puller not working. Took approximately two full days of soaking with multiple products. First I tried "In-Force", then "Kroil" and lastly "PB Blaster" For hubs, PB Blaster ha proven most affective for me.

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[ztnoo 2,300]

Congrats Aldon!!!

Thought you were trying to break my record for "Longest Duration GT 14 Hub Pull".

They can be one of the most frustrating chores associated with these tractors.

My right side was also the worst to deal with.

Looks like you have the bulk of the job done now.

[WHX?? 51,728]

3 hours ago, Aldon said:

that can damage the bearings.

Not to mention knocking off that circlip inside ...then you do have work!!

 

1 hour ago, Aldon said:

soaking with multiple products.

Ahhh and you best go git some kitty litter Aldon ... looks of it you got half of it on the floor!

[Aldon 4,828]

Definitely a HAZMAT superfund site in the making!

[DougC 2,643]

I agree. Some hubs slide right off and shock and surprise you and others you swear somebody welded them on!  Soak em good and be patient if you can, 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Yes. These hubs are horrible. That's why when they go back on they are coated with anti-seize.

 

What I have started doing is actually remove the hub once a year or so and clean it up so it doesn't have as much time to seize up.

[DougC 2,643]

Good point with using anti-seize compound. That will make life much easier in the future. I never install a spark plug or oxygen sensor without it on the threads.  

[WHX?? 51,728]

See what you started classic.... now we're all having flashbacks about stuck hubs... and the ones yet to come...

1 hour ago, Aldon said:

HAZMAT superfund site

 funny Aldon  I'll help you clean up when I bring the 520 over to use that puller!

Edited October 6, 2016 by WHX8

[bmsgaffer 2,053]

55 minutes ago, DougC said:

I agree. Some hubs slide right off and shock and surprise you and others you swear somebody welded them on!  Soak em good and be patient if you can, 

 

And sometimes you find hubs that WERE welded on... 

[DougC 2,643]

They figure thats cheaper than a new hub and let the next guy worry about the leaky axle seal..............

[ztnoo 2,300]

2 hours ago, mmmmmdonuts said:

when they go back on they are coated with anti-seize.

 

Ditto!

Just a light coating is sufficient. No need to "glob" it on. It's messy enough just using a little, without getting carried away.

In addition, I ran the tractor while the rear was on jacks and buffed the axle with 0000 steel wool to knock residual rust off before applying the anti-seize.

Should be included in any hub remounting.

[classicdmax 190]

5 hours ago, WHX8 said:

See what you started classic.... now we're all having flashbacks about stuck hubs... and the ones yet to come...

 funny Aldon  I'll help you clean up when I bring the 520 over to use that puller!

This is exactly why I post the questions in Lieu of doing the search....I enjoy reading all this banter.

 

now why is it that manufacturers never use anti seize, I'd be willing to pay a few extra bucks for a product knowing I won't be throwing tools around the yard in frustration.

[WHX?? 51,728]

10 hours ago, classicdmax said:

....I enjoy reading all this banter.

Thank you Classic... we enjoy creating it!

 

10 hours ago, classicdmax said:

manufacturers never use anti seize,

My guess is they figure professional mechanics will know how to remove seized parts and when they and us backyard hammer mechanics break it trying to get it unstuck they can sell us a replacement at a nice profit. All fine and dandy until the manufacturer goes out of business and no more parts!

Then again I had a factory repair manual for a Ford truck that instructed to use anti-seize on disc brake anchor pins yet it wasn't applied at the factory?

[bmsgaffer 2,053]

I think the manufacturers have to weigh the "lifetime target" of the machines they build as compared to cost. 

 

If these machines were 10 years old or less, there probably wouldn't be many seized hubs. I will bet lots of donuts that even back in the 50's and 60's that they wouldn't have expected some of these horses to outlast 40+ years of use and sometimes abuse (especially many of them never needing the seals changed!). 

 

They had to weight in the likelihood of someone keeping the machine longer than 10 years or at least not changing the axle seals for 10 years. And to be honest, axle seals should probably be on the 5-10 year maintenance plan of these machines even if they don't need it, and anti-seize is on the repair list because the axles didn't rust in the first 10 years if they were decently taken care of but now they are rusting a bit so its an added preventative maintenance step. Just like the truck bolts, they probably expected you to replace those bolts before they were rusted enough to cause a problem without anti-seize. 

[WHX?? 51,728]

Well said and sad but true Brandon.... the truck I was referring to I bought new in 1979, sold in 1995 and scrapped in 2000! I still have the truck I bought to replace it 95. Like my 's I prefer to hang on to things!

[Elkskin's mower junkyard 1,117]

i will be honest some of dads and my horses have original trans seals has well has our other brands same way. yes some leak but oh 80 percent havent lol. hubs dont get me started. every wheel horse except ones i got from work hubs are always loose.