Cody 273 #1 Posted January 2, 2009 Hi, im new here and im absolutely loving it. I have a C-160 that iv had for years. The engine was rebuilt in the mid 90s it doesnt smoke or knock any but i have a problem with it that iv been trying to figure out for years. If i run the tractor at half throttle it will run great for about 30 or 45 minutes and then it just boggs right down and shuts off. let it cool for a few min and it will start right up. It boggs down quicker if its in 3rd gear plowing snow or even just ridding it around. It will run longer if its in 2nd gear. Im wondering if anyone may know why its bogging down like this. at first i thought maybe it had the wrong coil so a changed that and that didnt help. Thanks Cody Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddy da Bear 11 #2 Posted January 2, 2009 :hide: I can only relate a similar instance with one of my tractors. And while I found the problem with my tractor.....it may or may not be the same problem with your tractor. My tractor would do exactly as you described. Then I finally realized that the tractor was bogging down and dieing just like it was running on choke. But the choke lever was in the full "off" position.... Or was it? I discovered a previous owner had replaced the choke cable and did not synchronize it correctly with the choke on the carburator! When the choke lever was off......the choke was still partially on, on the carburator. I had to replace the cable again as there was not enough cable to lever between full on and full off of the choke. At least go out and visually verify the butterfly (choke) position on your carburator and how that position relates to your lever on the dash. It might also mean you have dirt occassionally clogging the carb. It may need a thorough cleaning. Good luck....hope this helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #3 Posted January 2, 2009 Have you checked the gas cap vent hole? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cody 273 #4 Posted January 2, 2009 Yes i have checked the gas cap and it seemed fine. And just to make sure i changed the gas cap from another tractor and nothing changed. This tractor has me completly stumped. :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #5 Posted January 2, 2009 Did you already try another condenser? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rideawaysenior 25 #6 Posted January 2, 2009 It may be a bit premature to go this far ahead yet, but I had a similar problem and I found it to be a sticking valve. Once the engine would heat up, the valve would stick open and I would loose compression. Several other possabilities would also be what the other guys mentioned. 1. Choke 2. Carb being dirty or improperly set 3. Bad coil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1045 28 #7 Posted January 2, 2009 My 1045 does (or did) the exact same thing. I would get 3 strips from getting the backyard all but done at it would bog down and die. I could pull out the choke to keep it running, but no for long. As soon as it was cool again, I could mow for another 30 min. or so. It does this at the same place everytime, exactly 3 strips from done. I re-wired the whole tractor, replaced the coil, replaced all the gas lines and still the same thing. After all this I parked it for the tear down and restore. I told the guy that is rebuilding the motor for me ...and he is looking into it. I'm thinking that it is carb/choke related. Hopefully a carb rebuild will fix it and/or a choke cable adjustment. Or a combination of both. BTW: A stuck valve can cause the same problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cody 273 #8 Posted January 2, 2009 I have replaced everything that is eletrical on the tractor. it has new points, condencer, coil, ampmeter, ignition switch and a complete brand new wireing harness, so maybe it is a sticking valve? or something wrong internally in the engine? Thanks, Cody Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 14 #9 Posted January 2, 2009 Sounds like you have eliminated the electrical system as a problem...almost. Check the timing, not just the point gap. It may also be running just lean enough to cause it to overheat. Running it at half throttle will also cause it to not cool itself as well as it should. You might also check to be sure the cooling fins are as clean as you can get them. It could be a sticking valve, but it sounds like something else is making it get hot enough to cause the valve to stick, if one is sticking. If it is overheating enough to make the insides swell enough to bogg it down and quit running then continuing to use it this way is going to cost you a rebuild. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rod(NASNUT) 1 #10 Posted January 2, 2009 When it will die is it hard to turn over if so it could be something wrong internally in the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cody 273 #11 Posted January 2, 2009 When it gets hot and dies it isnt hard to turn over and it usually will start right back up and run on an idol but if you give it throttle it will just die again. If i let it cool for a while it will run just fine for another 30 min or so Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 652 #12 Posted January 2, 2009 If it'll run at a idle its not a stuck valve... might be a sluggish valve causing something like valve float at the higher RPMS.. Have you ever temped the motor (using a infared temp gun) when it bogs down and dies?? That'll tell us real quick if its heat causing the valve to stick or something else Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,121 #13 Posted January 2, 2009 Fuel line or a lot of dirt on the gas tank pick-up screen? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,869 #14 Posted January 2, 2009 Fuel line or a lot of dirt on the gas tank pick-up screen? Mine does it. Drop the bowl on the carb, flush the tank, put a new fuel line and filter on and see what happens. Definitely a cheap troubleshooting step. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 178 #15 Posted January 2, 2009 The first thing I would do is check the valve clearances, especially the exhaust valve. As the engine heats up the valve clearances get tighter. If there's not enough clearance on your exhaust valve you'll lose compression when the engine is hot and it will lose power and eventually die. If it's run this way long enough it will burn the valve face and seat and you'll have to regrind them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #16 Posted January 2, 2009 I agree on the bowl/carb flush and clean. My C175 does the "find a good choke setting" from time to time. Always OK until you have put the motor under stress then you have to play with the choke lever. I know it almost has to be the float and my guess is the float arm with a possible hole in it. I have put new points, condenser, coil, wires, new ground wires, plugs, checked compression on both cyl., etc, etc. I need a rebuild on my carb and it sounds like you may have the same problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gd.pudge 2 #17 Posted January 2, 2009 also remember a new part is not always a good part i have got bad coils and condensors Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
