Jump to content
608KEB

Mower deck spindle removal ?

Recommended Posts

608KEB

I have what I was told was a 1979 42"Rd deck. I've removed the spindles in newer decks and older decks. I've not encountered  spindles with keys in them before. To remove the shaft from the housing do I hit it through? Or use a press? I'm also having trouble getting the keys out. I got 1 out.

IMG_20160816_111101070_HDR.jpg

IMG_20160816_111106937.jpg

I got it! I tapped on shaft. It came right out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB

No problems....yet. removed snap rings 

IMG_20160816_112048863.jpg

1471366190982-45912951.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB

ID # might as well do a little rehab work since I took it apart. 2 of the 6 bearings are shot.

1471376454623-700909746.jpg

1471376516554-1179852842.jpg

1471376591646-1676697307.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lane Ranger

That type spindle on those decks  takes a little longer to work on when redoing one but they last a lot longer also.  Deck housing looks like a very good one too!   

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

In case you were wondering your build date is 9123

123rd day of 1979

Thursday May 3, 1979

 

Garry

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB

Thanks, I received the deck for free. A gentleman saw my Wheel Horses and asked if I wanted a mower deck for free. He told me it was in good shape and he hadn't used it in over 25 years. Said it came with a 1979 C-141. The belt idler bar is hardly worn. Free and in decent shape is always a great deal!

Edited by 608KEB
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lane Ranger

You can still buy new replacements for that idler bar (last time I checked)  and  you should use new  nylon bushings too (Glen Pettit sells replacements )    The idler  needs to run smooth to have a  good operating mower deck.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB

New bearings #6203.$117.00 total ouch! New idler bar spacers. I've used this rust converter in the past with good results. Works as a primer too. Starting to put the deck back together.

IMG_20160818_140030081.jpg

IMG_20160818_140048536.jpg

1471547166329754101512.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB

I'm having a little trouble getting the key past the collar with the grooves in it? I have instructions. What am I doing wrong?

IMG_20160818_142857632.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??
35 minutes ago, 608KEB said:

New bearings #6203.$117.00 total ouch!

That doesn't sound right for that common of a bearing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB
1 hour ago, WHX7 said:

That doesn't sound right for that common of a bearing!

That's what I thought. Because a few months ago, I bought bearings  for 42"RD #78350. They were  about $6.00 a piece. I was surprised. These were $17.00 each. I bought them from the same bearing house. I was also wondering if the deck belt would interchange with deck #78350. The belt on 95-42MR02 is original and shot. The belt I have appears to be about 1" longer.

Edited by 608KEB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Yah I hate to say it 608 but I think you took it in the shorts & no more business for that bearing house. I know your not supposed to do this here but sue me ...I am not gonna let a fellow member get robbed

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/6302-bearing

These are what I use and I am sure they are not real high quality but I can change bearings in a deck all day and I grease often.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB

It's  my fault.  Last time I bought bearings for my other 42" rd I asked how much they were. This time I did not ask. I assumed the bearings would be simular in price. I'm over it. Lost or spent money in worse ways! Still trying to figure out how to get the 1/2 moon key in. The collar with groves doesn't go in far enough maybe my top bearing needs to go in further. I don't  want to damage anything. 

IMG_20160818_142857632.jpg

Edited by 608KEB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
doc724

You do not need to put the woodruff key back.  Newer decks did not use a key anymore.  Just make sure you can fit a lock nut under the nut which holds the pulley on. Use lots of never seize between the pulley and shaft. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB
4 hours ago, doc724 said:

Top bearing  wasn't tapped in far enough.

 

 

Edited by 608KEB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Garry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
608KEB

A few more pictures. I soaked some of the bolts in vinegar. Brushed rust remover gel and vinegar on underside  of the deck. 

IMG_20160818_161138664.jpg

IMG_20160818_161120602.jpg

IMG_20160819_173443876.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ohiofarmer
On 8/17/2016 at 9:12 AM, Lane Ranger said:

You can still buy new replacements for that idler bar (last time I checked)  and  you should use new  nylon bushings too (Glen Pettit sells replacements )    The idler  needs to run smooth to have a  good operating mower deck.

 

Typically what happens to an old deck and especially one that has sat around is this.  The slide bar rides on top of two little strips of Delrin, causing a little space between the deck top and slide bar in the area between the Delrin strips. Dirt enters the area and water makes the thing rust. The bar pits and if the deck sets around, the slide bar freezes in place and then the mower belts will break..

 What I did was buff the deck free from rust with a  wheel and use rust converter. I also used my secret weapon abrasive wheel on the slide bar and deck http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=polycarbide+abrasive+wheel

 and these wheels will impart a near mirror finish to steel in short order. I have told people to try them for paint removal and they thank me every time for mentioning the wheels. Instead of riding on Delrin, I just find a piece of Formica and cut it a couple of inches wide and cut two slots in it to caapture it in between two bolts so it is under the slide bar. I slather grease beneath the Formica so there is no place for more rust to form. Then i use just a little plumbers grease [completely waterproof] between the slide bar and the formica. It then slides very easily  and there is not a space for dirt to get in.

 

 The next step is a judgement call, but I run the mower without the deck belt guard and i blow off the dirt and dust on a regular basis.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • PAguy
      By PAguy
      Hello gents! 
      I find myself with a question for the forum before I go down the path of ripping my deck apart in the middle of the season. 
       
      I have a 42 inch rear discharge 78350 that seems to have developed a crack at the center spindle (photo attached). At first I thought I had unbalanced blade issue bc the deck will vibrate something fearce. Long story short took it off got everything sharp and freshly greased. Started it up and it had the vibration again that reverberates through the deck. Now it's not as as bad as before but at the wrong angle or first starting it just vibrates loudly. So looked around and found the crack at the center spindle. 
       
      Debating if a simple weld would be sufficient for this crack or it would need more extensive repair? I don't weld myself but before I bothered the guy that farms the property thought I would ask here for thoughts if someone has had this issue since I was not seeing something in the forum. 
       
      Appreciate your guys help and thoughts. 

    • MSBiker
      By MSBiker
      Well it looks like I'm out of luck. I have been looking for blades for my Lawn Ranger and having zero luck. I have tried Wheel Horse part numbers 7908, 7909. Toro part numbers 8777, and 53322 and no one has anything like this. I was thinking about doing a cut down, but finding right hand and left hand blades seems to be the problem. 
      Anyone making blades, constructing blades, got a work around, etc? My blades are usable, but that is about it. 
    • Brockport Bill
      By Brockport Bill
      48" Mower Deck - Side Discharge model # 78361 -- # 312000163. This mower is listed as being manufactured at the near end of Wheel Horse production for this deck in 2012. This mower is in very good condition used only one season on small yard. Well cared for and stored indoors. The deck has double right side pulley for optional bagger attachment. Any owner who cares for this mower will have a great investment of a classic WH deck to last decades. Cash pick up Poughkeepsie, NY area. No returns. Please send p.m if interested



    • jmack
      By jmack
      What’s the correct v-belt size for a xi drive belt connecting to a 60” deck?  
       
      Just shredded mine today. 
    • BrianKoch
      By BrianKoch
      Gentlemen,
       
      I’m having trouble with getting my deck to raise up and lock and I think it might have to do with the deck being incorrectly set up. 
       
      Based on the picture, does my mower deck look incorrectly positioned? That is, should the pivoting support bar be positioned above or below the wheel support pin? 
       
      Brian

×
×
  • Create New...