Jack45 69 #1 Posted June 5, 2016 My father-in-law has been storing a WH for me for about 10 years. My dad dropped it off at my FILs a long time ago and I never had a chance to pick it up. My steering gear went out (three broken teeth) on my Suburban so I went to my FIL's to pick up the one there in the hopes I could get parts off it. I was expecting a Suburban or RJ based on what my Dad had previously shown me. I got this instead. I am going to pick up a battery at the hardware store tomorrow and change the oil. It looks to be complete but I am pretty new at this. I am definitely looking forward to the electric start if it works. It has a K161 motor. Serial Number is 62-7158 Any other info is appreciated. 16 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buffaloman 295 #2 Posted June 5, 2016 holy crap! its like your dad and father in law have been hiding the treasure on oak island ! awesome surprise for you hope you can get it running cant wait! 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prondzy 3,889 #3 Posted June 5, 2016 Very nice 702 you have there! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,735 #4 Posted June 5, 2016 (edited) You are on your way to being a Round Hood master, herd is growing, next you need an RJ. Edited June 5, 2016 by 953 nut 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,309 #5 Posted June 5, 2016 Nice tractor - better price!!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,765 #6 Posted June 5, 2016 Jack45 It is time the old girl came out of the dark and back into service. A good clean up and see where you are with everything. Enjoy. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack45 69 #7 Posted June 5, 2016 Everything works on my little farm. I need it running so I can plow my next corn patch. This one is a little rusty but it is only surface rust. I will wire brush it and wipe down with a little oil and she will be good to go. Big concern is getting the engine going. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,274 #8 Posted June 5, 2016 Nice surprise there. Mine is 62-4216. It looks like you are just missing the guard over the engine/starter belt. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlwaysLookin80 1,308 #9 Posted June 5, 2016 That's awesome. The 702 is a great tractor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coldbear 29 #10 Posted June 5, 2016 If I were you, I'd get the thing running and not touch a thing. Keep it stock and people will come. A very nice father in law if I might say. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,469 #11 Posted June 5, 2016 NO WIRE BRUSH!!!! Wash and oil rub. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,735 #12 Posted June 5, 2016 Steel Wool and WD40. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coldbear 29 #13 Posted June 5, 2016 It's only original once. I don't know what it is about rust and well worn parts that attract gear heads? I think it's the mystique that we all had remembering what they looked like new on the showroom floors. Get it running mechanically and pull the kids around your little farm in a wagon. That's for your kicks and giggles. (: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MWR 321 #14 Posted June 6, 2016 Just needs the soot blown out of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack45 69 #15 Posted June 7, 2016 I have spent several hours over the last two days trying to get this thing running. I am not a mechanic by trade. I know the basics and have tinkered for years. I have gotten it started once for about a minute. Most of the time I can't get it to crank at all. Sometimes if I spin the flywheel by hand while pushing in the starter button then it will start spinning. Here is a list of what I tried: 1. I changed the oil, put in a new spark plug, and a new battery. 2. I took the coil and condenser off and cleaned it up along with all the attached wires. 3. I took out the carb jets and cleaned them as best I could and put them back in at the same spot they were in, about two full turns from bottom each. Fuel is getting to the Carburetor and i can see it wet inside the cylinder. 4. Gave a small squirt of starter fluid in cylinder. 5. Removed spark plug wire and laid it against metal. Sometimes I get a spark and sometimes I don't. I think this is where the problem might lie. I noticed the spark plug wire is pretty loose on the coil and the coil has a nice size dent in it. Are wires and coild still available anywhere? Any other advice is appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,735 #16 Posted June 7, 2016 6 hours ago, Jack45 said: Are wires and coild still available anywhere? A dent in a coil is probably not a good thing! The coil is the same as was used by VW from the mid '60s to mid '70s. It is a 12 volt with internal resistor, NAPA should stock one. Any spark plug wire from a car or truck will meet your needs, if you deal with or have friends in an auto repair shop or "Junk Yard" just ask for a good used plug wire, they will give it to you. While you are at it pick up a new condenser, they don't last for ever. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,073 #17 Posted June 7, 2016 10 hours ago, Jack45 said: 5. Removed spark plug wire and laid it against metal. Sometimes I get a spark and sometimes I don't. Check the points. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack45 69 #18 Posted June 7, 2016 Next time I am in town I will stop and see what they have at NAPA. How do you check the points to see if they are good or not? Thanks for the help! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,073 #19 Posted June 7, 2016 (edited) If the points are worn, they will be burnt and pitted. You can try to clean them with a point file or a ladies nail file will work in a pinch. The gap should be properly set also. I don't know the correct gap for your particular tractor though. The 8-10-12..etc. HPs are .020. If the points are bad though, should be replaced. Edited June 7, 2016 by TDF5G 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coldbear 29 #20 Posted June 7, 2016 Even a worn set of points will still fire if the gap is set correctly. Open the gap with emery cloth and set .020. It should start. And don't forget to clean the flywheel of rust. That will slow em' down. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack45 69 #21 Posted June 11, 2016 I got her running...sort of. .she needed a really good charged battery. She does not run well though. She has almost no power and dies constantly. I have to keep throttle and choke fully pulled to get her to idle at all and she will still die after a while. I tried adjusting the two screws on the carburetor and it didn't really do much. Occasionally she will rev up really high and then drop back down and die. Best word I can use is that she runs erratically. I also took the fuel pump apart and looked for any damage or dirt. It was pretty clean and looked fine as far as I can tell. She also seems to have good compression based on what I feel in the air intake. What would you try next? one other issue is that fuel tank leaks. It isn't from rust it is from whatever they used as a seal or gasket going bad. What have others done to fix that issue? thanks all! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,735 #22 Posted June 11, 2016 On 6/7/2016 at 0:01 AM, Jack45 said: I took out the carb jets and cleaned them as best I could The passages in a carb. are extremely small and the slightest build up of residue will prevent it from working properly. Take the carburetor apart and soak it in carb. cleaner or lacquer thinner overnight. then using compressed air blow out each passage. 7 hours ago, Jack45 said: fuel tank leaks. I presume you have the two piece cast aluminum tank. New gaskets can be found on Ebay. Be sure to use penetrating oil on all of the bolts for a few days prior to attempting to take the tank apart. The steel machine screws threaded into the cast aluminum tank causes electrolysis which freezes them in place; replace them with stainless steel when you repair it. On 6/7/2016 at 1:00 PM, Jack45 said: check the points Did you file, adjust or replace the points. Your ignition points not only allow the coil to produce a spark, they also set your timing so if they are not right your timing will be off. On 6/7/2016 at 6:52 AM, 953 nut said: pick up a new condenser, Did you replace the condenser, a condensed in poor condition will not allow the ignition system to work properly. There isn't ONE thing that will make an engine run properly, all systems must work as a team! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack45 69 #23 Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) I will start working through these items. Thanks! One question on tank. How do I get the steering wheel off? I removed the roll pin but it is still tight. I hate to cause damage with a hammer if I am missing an obvious easy solution. Edited June 11, 2016 by Jack45 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,469 #24 Posted June 11, 2016 6 minutes ago, Jack45 said: I will start working through these items. Thanks! One question on tank. How do I get the steering wheel off? I removed the roll pin but it is still tight. I hate to cause damage with a hammer if I am missing an obvious easy solution. Which roll pin did you remove? I'd remove the pin in the bottom of the shaft that holds the gear on. Then the entire shaft will slide up and out. You'll also need to loosen the retaining bushing behind the dash. With the entire shaft out, you can work on the wheel on your bench if you need to remove it from the shaft. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack45 69 #25 Posted June 11, 2016 I took the roll pin at the wheel out. I wasn't sure if the gear would fit through the hole at the other end but will take another look. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites