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nhmikel

Please help id

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nhmikel

Year? Hp? Engine make?, etc

picked these up today along with 1960 suburban and deck.Which engine model and hp will fit?

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SylvanLakeWH

Nice!

 

Folks with a lot more wisdom will answer your Q's...

 

What's the black hood WH in the background? Is it a "C"???

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953 nut

The tag said it all; you have a 656, had an electric start six horse power Kohler when it left the factory in 1966. A previous owner seems to have put a few incorrect decals on it over the years, no such thing as a 706 as far as I can find. perhaps a previous owner put a pull start seven horse engine on it. :confusion-confused:

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wallfish

Tractor looks like a hybrid, that hood doesn't look right.

You seem to be after every WH in the area so this document will help you

Wheel_Horse_All_Years.pdf

Edited by wallfish
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953 nut
14 minutes ago, wallfish said:

hybrid, that hood doesn't look right.

I think all of the short frame '65, '66 and the six and eight horse power '67s had the same hood. The decal is not what was being used at this time, but the hoods from later long frame :wh:s would not fit a short frame. Hard to tell what might have been altered over a half century of owners.

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gwest_ca

There was a 706 but thought it was an exported model

Garry

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953 nut
2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

There was a 706

:bow-blue:    I was going by the "All Years" list, always exceptions to the rules with :wh:

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CasualObserver

That is curious. Everything I've seen about the 706 is that it was a US built export only model and all the 706 models that have turned up so far have been overseas as far as I remember. Clearly the serial tag says its a 656. Occam's razor would say it accidentally got a wrong belt guard decal while going down the line. It is well documented that multiple models ran in batches down the same assembly lines at the factory. A wrong decal on the belt guard would not be an unbelievable mistake.

 

And the 656 would have been an 6HP Tecumseh, not a Kohler.

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Racinbob

Interesting. Nice cart too. Here's a good cross reference for the engines.

 

 

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nhmikel

Is it safe to assume the hoods of different lengths will interchange?  How can you tell what year this one is?

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CasualObserver

Not all. For those 60s wedge hood models, there were long frame and short frame... I think they're about 4" different.  Your tractor model ends in a 6, making it a 1966. The lower (6-8) HP models were the short frames and the higher (10-12) were the long frames. If you want a different hood, it needs to come from another short frame model between 65-69.

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psalms83:18
22 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Nice!

 

Folks with a lot more wisdom will answer your Q's...

 

What's the black hood WH in the background? Is it a "C"???

yeah that's my c-175 pulled from beneath a dirt pile

22 hours ago, wallfish said:

""

You seem to be after every WH in the area ""

actually we are trying to be picky about which ones we get....but wheel horse up here is Rare compared to Indiana Pennsylvania and other areas, so being in the buying mood does kinda drum up the idea of consider anything that is wheel horse....

we are sticking to arch fenders ...what we want next is a D model not with an onan with pto and 3 point...and an rj.

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nhmikel

The C was a free item and my son did all the work of cleaning, replacing and tuning it up. Job well done Adam

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wallfish
4 hours ago, nhmikel said:

How can you tell what year this one is?

6=6hp

5=electric start

6=1966

A 7 or 8hp kohler will fit on that too but has to be a starter/generator type engine so the battery fits. Or go just pull start.

Funny that it has a 706 sticker and there isn't a battery tray in there. The battery tray sits right in front of the steering sector for electric start models.

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nhmikel
On 5/19/2016 at 8:20 PM, wallfish said:

6=6hp

5=electric start

6=1966

A 7 or 8hp kohler will fit on that too but has to be a starter/generator type engine so the battery fits. Or go just pull start.

Funny that it has a 706 sticker and there isn't a battery tray in there. The battery tray sits right in front of the steering sector for electric start models.

Thanks for the heads up....what else to make it complete? Engine with pulleys, battery tray and cables, misc electrial items, hmmm maybe another one for parts

What type oil for the rear end? Engine?

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wallfish

It appears to be complete except for the items you mentioned but don't know if there's a gas tank in there. An original Tecumseh powered tractor would've used a tank that was connected directly to the engine but any Kohler powered models would have a tank sitting in the tray under the hood right behind the dash.

Personally I would go with a Kohler 7 or 8hp. A nice K161 7hp pull start should fit right in there. With a good clean carb they start right up with one or two pulls so not a big deal without electric start. Plus there's no expense of the electrical parts needed or a battery. It will match that decal on the belt guard too.

Flushing the trans with diesel or kerosene will get most of the old oil and crude out of it and then fill with gear oil like SAE 90-140 API GL-5. Most of the time it's easier to pull the shifter out to use that big hole to fill it.

I've been "eyeballing" that cart in your pictures and have an engine and tank if you might want to trade. Either electric start 8hp or a 7hp pull start with the pulley and we can work out the details for either one.

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nhmikel

Will this engine fit my 656?

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CasualObserver

The 7 HP Kohler would be a good choice, but I'd stay away from that one if you're looking for a bolt-on solution. That big bell housing on the PTO side is a gear reduction unit, those engines are typically used more for pump motors that need slower RPMs at full power. Inside there, the crankshaft is splined to run a ring gear to low the RPMs. You'd have to remove that and change the crankshaft from the splined shaft to a keyed shaft.

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RedRanger
4 hours ago, CasualObserver said:

The 7 HP Kohler would be a good choice, but I'd stay away from that one if you're looking for a bolt-on solution. That big bell housing on the PTO side is a gear reduction unit, those engines are typically used more for pump motors that need slower RPMs at full power. Inside there, the crankshaft is splined to run a ring gear to low the RPMs. You'd have to remove that and change the crankshaft from the splined shaft to a keyed shaft.

OR drive real slow.  :ychain:

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