Electrical mystery

[Richard Smith 0]

Fried selinoid and ignition replaced both new. Turned key nothing! Tested fuses,saftey switches no issues. Jumped the posts on the

selinoid and every thing worked including amp meter, lights starter. At this point I am stumped! Help

 

 

 

[Racinbob 10,390]

It's probably something simple but letting us know what model you have will help. The wiring diagram will be here.

[19richie66 16,979]

Test the exciter wire on the solenoid to see if you are getting power from the switch to the solenoid when the key is turned to start. Does the solenoid have one or two small posts on it? If two, the solenoid needs to be grounded on one to work. Sure you have the correct ignition switch? They all look a lot alike. Some are clocked differently.

Edited May 10, 2016 by 19richie66

[Richard Smith 0]

Sorry, new to this. It's a418C with Kohler Magnum 18. I checked all the letter codes on new ignition to make sure they matched up to the location of the posts on the old one. The selinoid has two posts and yes it's grounded. Don't know what a exciter wire is but I'll know in the next few mins and will test it. I will let you know. Thanks for helping gentleman.

 

 

[19richie66 16,979]

The two small terminals on the solenoid. One should be grounded and the other should get power with the key turned to start. This activates the starter. The power goes away when you release the ignition switch back to run. 

here is the schematic for the 418 A and 418-8. I didnt see a 418-c. There are several safety switches between the keyswitch and solenoid. I have a 418-a and I rewired mine due to all the switches being trashed and bypassed before I got it. Good luck with it.

 

should be able to run a temporary jumper from the "tan" wire from starter on ignition switch to "light blue" on solenoid. It should bypass all the switches for testing only. In no way am I telling you to disable your safety switches.

Edited May 10, 2016 by 19richie66

[Racinbob 10,390]

Richie, I'm thinking he may have replaced the solenoid with a Ford style. Richard, is that the case? If so, the small 'I' terminal doesn't get used in this application.

[19richie66 16,979]

Yeah I was thinking the regular lawn and garden solenoid.

[Racinbob 10,390]

He may have . This is one of the many reasons I don't like troubleshooting electrical stuff via forum posts.

[Richard Smith 0]

Gentleman the selinoid I have has only two posts and a ground. The exciter post has power to it whether or not the ignition is on. However there is neither power nor continuity to any of the posts on the ignition. What the h--l? What do I do next? This the third Horse I have rebuilt which I love but this may be the last.

 

 

[Racinbob 10,390]

I'm a bit confused here. Is yours like this?

 

 

The positive battery cable connects to one large terminal, a cable connects to the other large terminal and goes to the starter, providing it hasn't been changed a light blue wire connects to the small terminal and it is grounded through the mounting bracket. The only time the small terminal will have power is when the ignition switch is in the momentary 'start' position. Temporarily install a jumper from the switch to the small terminal like Richie mentioned. If she cranks then you have a safety switch issue or a broken or disconnected wire. With a test light or meter take it one step at a time starting at the start terminal on the switch. Then go to the PTO switch, then to the clutch neutral safety switch and finally to the small solenoid terminal. One more thing. Is your motor mounted on a shaker mount? If it is, there's a grounding jumper from the motor to the frame. Make sure it's good and clean.

Edited May 10, 2016 by Racinbob

[19richie66 16,979]

Yeah Im confused now. 

[19richie66 16,979]

Could you snap a photo?

[Richard Smith 0]

OK, I tried what you told me and ran a jump from the tan starter post to the Selinoid and turned the key to the start position.It turned over for about 3 seconds and then blew the fuse. I repeated that 3 times with the same result each time. Where does that leave me? Sorry been fighting computer and router most of the day so can't send photo right now.

[doc724 924]

Fuses blow for only two reasons.  Either you are drawing too much current or there is a short.  If course a short is really a severe case of drawing too much current.  Suggest you get out your multimeter and do a point to point check of each electrical connection to ground (discvonent the battery first).  Use the resistance scale.  There should only be three types of readings, zero ohms (meaning a connection), open circuit, or very low resistance (solenoid coil).  Use the wiring diagram provided earlier to trace each wire.

[Richard Smith 0]

Thanks doc, will do.

[Racinbob 10,390]

You also might try disconnecting the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Turn the key to the start position to energize the solenoid and see if it blows the fuse. Since you are able to crank it for 3 seconds it's kinda saying it's not a short but rather your starter is drawing too much...........or the fuse was replaced with the wrong one.

Edited May 13, 2016 by Racinbob