Jump to content
sluggo

Seat Safety Switch Location

Recommended Posts

sluggo

I have a 1992 310-8. Yesterday the engine started dying when I engaged the PTO (mowing) . I finished mower with my pusher. Don't want to  do that again!

 

Anyway I am trying to troubleshoot and understand I can 'jump' the seat safety switch to diagnose (only). Where is the switch or the plug located? What size wire do I need? If the seat switch is ok, can I do the same with the PTO switch? 

 

BTW, the belt moves the mower by hand when the mower is off 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Here is your wiring. Each circuit has its own diagram.

The weight of the operator in the seat is what activates the switch. If it is the push button type the button should be on the rear fender pan under the seat so the seat can contact it. The wire feeding the switch shows as being white. It should have power in it with the ignition key in the RUN position. Motor does not need to be running. Closing the switch should pass power to the other wire on the seat switch which goes to a relay probably located below the battery. You should hear or feel the relay close when the seat switch is activated.

Not a heavy load so a wire as small as 18 gauge would serve as a jumper to connect the two seat wires.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

Garry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
doc724

For diagnosing purposes, separate seat switch from the rest of the wiring harness by taking apart the inline connector under the seat.  Put a paperclip into the two female terminals.  If the problem goes away  you know it is a seat switch.  Some seat switches use a pushbutton, others use switches that clip into the seat.  The latter are not so reliable.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sluggo

Thanks for the help.  Wiring De-Mysticification is right!!! It is fixed now.

 

Troubleshooting led to jumping seat switch and that wasn't the issue. I  followed wiring diagram and it indicated that a wire from the PTO to the ignition switch. My ignition switch was pulled out a little from the wiring harness. It was a simple loose connection. Of course it took me five hours to find it, but that's another story. 

 

 

Fixed. Done. On to the next thing.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • OHLB
      By OHLB
      Newbie here. 310-8 won't start. Battery is dated 10/19. Did crank a couple times but started losing ummph. Should I replace it or attempt to charge it? Can't tell if the battery is frozen. Never knew until today that batteries could freeze and that it's dangerous to charge a frozen battery. It's been single digits with wind chill the last couple weeks here. 
    • nylyon
      By nylyon-(Admin)
      Looking for a PTO for my 310.  Would like the complete assembly, but at very least I need the inner clutch plate, and outer PTO bearing. 
    • Big Rig
      By Big Rig
      ISO clutch neutral safety switch for 310-8
      or alternative 
    • Rob R
      By Rob R
      Soo couple of years back did a pulley change on the tranny from 6 inch to 4.5 and used a 1/2 X 79 belt to make it work and it worked fairly well but wanted to get back to a 5/8 drive belt so went to a 5/8 x 81 inch belt and added a second flat Idler pulley. I simply cannot believe how smooth and sharp it shifts and drives now!  The added flat Idler was 2 3/4" with a 5/8ths bore used and existing hole on the side shroud and just opened it up a bit. I use to slip a bit on steep hill with the 79" slips no more, the belt drives and the clutch is  LOT smoother and in the right pedal area.... Will see how it holds up cut 3/4 of an acre of grass yesterday NO issues. 





    • Ifixoldjunk
      By Ifixoldjunk
      So I was out mowing the other day with my 310-8 and somehow snagged my wheel in a hole in the yard. Anyways I pretty much destroyed my ball joints. I've since replaced the tie rod with junkyard parts but I was wondering if anyone's found a heavy duty aftermarket replacement for the tie rod assembly.
       
      Like would generic adjustable go-kart tie rods do the trick?
×
×
  • Create New...