car 24 #1 Posted April 26, 2016 I've got a 268 that's not charging the battery. After running it for a couple hours the battery is down to 11.4 volts. If I unhook the neg while running it dies. The battery tested fine after I put it on a charger. Could you point me in the right direction as to what I should be looking for/replacing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #2 Posted April 26, 2016 What is the tractor's model and serial number? They were produced 1994-1995 and 1999-2003. With the numbers we can look for a wiring diagram to see how they did it. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,673 #4 Posted April 26, 2016 Has it got a voltage regulator like this? More than likely what it is they go out all the time. Replacements are cheap ( maybe that's why they go out often) and can be had everywhere. Wouldn't hurt to check the charge coils tho. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #5 Posted April 26, 2016 Many manuals here in case you don't have them The 260-Series service manual does not go into the charging system except it shows how the ignition switch performs. The operator manual has a wiring diagram. The DC power leaves the voltage regulator and goes to a 25 amp fuse. From the fuse it goes to the R terminal on the ignition switch. Locate the DC+ terminal on the voltage regulator on the engine blower housing. There should be 3 wires on the regulator. Two will be the same color and are the stator wires. The 3rd wire is the DC+ wire. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position with the engine not running. Check the voltage across the battery posts. Now move the red test lead to the DC+ terminal on the regulator. You should have the same voltage reading. If not check the fuse and connection on that circuit for clean and tight. Fuses can fail because the connection to the terminals is loose or corroded. This causes heat which is often seen as an overheated condition of the fuse holder. The fix is to use a heavier duty fuse holder available from an automotive jobber. A 30 amp holder with a 25 amp fuse should last forever. If this part checks out the test procedure for the charging stator is in the Kohler service manual. Let us know what you find. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,213 #6 Posted April 26, 2016 Follow Garry's advice. For the diagrams, go to the Toro site or the manual site here on RS and locate the "Toro Riding Products Demystification Guide." It breaks down the individual circuits for you. Yours is located on pages 6-31A through 6-31H. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
car 24 #7 Posted April 27, 2016 The voltage was the same at the regulator. So do you think I should replace the regulator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #8 Posted April 27, 2016 7 hours ago, car said: The voltage was the same at the regulator. So do you think I should replace the regulator? No not yet. I should have asked what the voltage reading was on the first test. If it was 12 volts or more move on. To rule out a problem with the ignition switch do that same battery voltage check at the battery and the regulator with the engine running at a fair speed this time. If the readings are the same move on. Remove the connector from the voltage regulator. Switch your tester to AC volts and place the test leads on the other two wires in the regulator connector. At full engine rpm you should have at least 28 AC volts. If you do get that then the regulator is most likely at fault and requires replacement. If you don't get 28 AC volts there is more stator testing to do and the regulator is not likely at fault. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
car 24 #9 Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) Sorry I haven't been back on here. Ok on the test were I checked the voltage at the battery it was 12.77 and 12.11 at the regulator with the engine off. With the engine running 12.61 at battery 12.17 at regulator. Edited May 8, 2016 by car Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #10 Posted May 8, 2016 On both tests you are losing about .5 of a volt. That may be corrected by cleaning up all the wiring connections between the battery and the regulator. Don't forget about the other half of the circuit - the grounds to the battery. The loss may be inside the ignition switch. All connections must be physically tight. Next I would pull the connector from the regulator and measure the AC voltage from the stator at full engine rpm. If you get at least 28 AC volts the problem is the regulator or wiring. At least you will know which way to go to look for the failure. When testing a charging system the battery must be charged and in good condition. A bad battery will drive you nuts because all test results are influenced by the battery and won't make sense. With 12.7 and 12.6 volts I suspect it is OK but if you have doubt substitute for another one. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
car 24 #11 Posted May 20, 2016 Once again, I'm sorry for the delay in answering. It seems like it was the regulator. I've replaced it and it appears to be charging just fine. Thanks for your help!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ross Warren 0 #12 Posted October 10, 2019 Where specifically is the regulator located? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #13 Posted October 10, 2019 Welcome to the forum. I don't know where the regulator is located but can likely find out. What is the model number and serial number of the tractor? Failing that post all the numbers off the engine data decal. The 268 is a lot like Chevrolet or Ford. They made 5 different models between 1994 and 2003. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
car 24 #14 Posted October 11, 2019 Turns out it was the stator. Replaced that and I'm good to go. Thanks for all the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
