GT 14 not charging

[WHX?? 46,901]

Nice pic dells. ... now what caused it to open like that? I would have been tempted to solder it back  up.

[dells68 7,494]

I honestly don't have any idea.  I'm afraid if I soldered it up that it would break again due to vibration.  Almost looks discolored from heat?

[ztnoo 2,298]

Well a K321 14 hp Kohler engine has a 3.50" bore and and 3.25" stroke.

That's a displacement of  31.27 cubic inches, or 512 cc.

Think about a British "thumper" single cylinder motorcycle of the 30's thru the early 60's.

Big motors for their day with loads of torque.

Most of those 500 cc bikes had longer strokes than bores (under square) and even more torque than your Kohler.

Some of the more refined 500s......like a Norton Manx (with overhead cams) would crank out to about 140 mph if geared right.

Formidable displacement for sure......especially on a consumer lawn tractor.

They aren't shy about using fuel, that's for sure.

 

Edited March 13, 2016 by ztnoo

[dells68 7,494]

Hey guys.  Update on the charging system.  I decided to paint everything around the engine and reace a leaky head gasket.  Pushed her out and she started right up and is showing almost 10 amps charging.  Now I can venture into working on the sheet metal when I get a chance.  I tried to upload a video of it running - we'll see if it works. Sorry, video doesn't work.  Take my word for it, she sure sounds good!

IMG_2336.MOV

Edited April 6, 2016 by dells68

[WHX?? 46,901]

Did you solder that regulator back up or replace it? Might be that it was just a bad spot on the foil and a high current draw opened it up.

[953 nut 51,915]

I agree with Jim, solder a wire across it and hook it up, worst that will happen is it won't work.

[WHX?? 46,901]

Or a good ready spare if it works.

[dells68 7,494]

Sorry for the delay guys - testing time at school - even for my 2nd graders  I didn't solder the original rectifier, just bought a new one from isavetractors.  It is one of the 15 amp versions and is doing really well so far.  I hope that continues.  I've been trying to clean up the wiring a little as I go, and so far everything seems to work - except for the pto.  Don't have any attachments for it so, I'll wait to switch it for a spare I have.  I did check and it's getting full voltage and a good ground.  The magnet will actually pull out when I unbolt the shaft bolt.  Should it do this?  The other one I have doesn't, but seems to have questionable bearings in the pulleys.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,513]

In this list are some service bulletins on servicing the electric pto clutches

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?type=downloads_file&q=pto+electric

 

Garry

[dells68 7,494]

Thanks for the info Garry!  I'd like to get the one on it working since it otherwise seems in good shape.

[pfrederi 17,169]

14 hours ago, dells68 said:

Thanks for the info Garry!  I'd like to get the one on it working since it otherwise seems in good shape.

Check out his thread on how to take them apart. 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/62241-why-i-am-not-big-fan-of-electric-ptos/?page=2

 

The field coil may come out easily (one of mine did)  however if it doesn't click loudly when you apply voltage to it then it is probably faulty.  You  could probably just swap field coils if they use the same push off threads  (see other post) or replace the bearings in the other one. (again there is one style for which I couldn't find a replacement bearing. But there is a potentilla work around.  Pictures of your PTOs would help

[WHX?? 46,901]

Yes thanks @gwest_ca good info on setting the air gap & other good info there. Didn't realize there was an actual burnishing procedure for the pto.