How do you learn engines?

[953 nut 60,224]

38 minutes ago, sorekiwi said:

Another really good manual to read:

It wouldn't open, try this one, think it is the same.

http://gravelymanuals.com/pdf/Kohler_Guide_To_Engine_Rebuilding_19890900.pdf

[steelman 252]

This is a great thread that I will follow with interest. I have a couple of engines that need rebuilt but I an leery of trying to do it myself having never opened an engine. I'll check out this manual and see if the local library has some small engine books to get started.

 

[sorekiwi 761]

Thanks Richard, I edited my post to try and get the link to work.  It is a different manual from what you linked to (which is also excellent reading).

[Mr. 856 170]

13 minutes ago, steelman said:

This is a great thread that I will follow with interest. I have a couple of engines that need rebuilt but I an leery of trying to do it myself having never opened an engine. I'll check out this manual and see if the local library has some small engine books to get started.

 

I to was once leery. All your fears and doubt's will drift away quickly. You got to just dig in. You can do it! I can honestly say rebuilding my K181S(my first engine rebuild) was easier than I anticipated. Just follow the steps from the manual cliseky and you can't go wrong. 

[Al C. 1,428]

Ok.  I have started reading the manuals while I try to find a K241 to practice on.  My two Wheel Horses have K241 (10hp) and K341 (16hp) engines.  Both have about 1,200 hours on them, were used exclusively for mowing, were continuously garaged, and work flawlessly.  I have performed general maintenance (filters, plugs, belts, oil) on them over the past year.  There have been no surprises.  I am not sure of their maintenance records before I acquired them. 

 

My question.  As I read the manuals, they refer to 250 hour and 500 hour maintenance routines that are more extensive than routine maintenance.  For instance, at 500 hours removing the cylinder head and cleaning the top of the cylinder and valves, also checking valve clearances.   Given the age, history, and current performance of these engines, I am reluctant to open anything up as long as they are working well.  Sort of , "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", or like that guy who smokes a pack a day and is feeling fine at 85 - why change now. 

 

What are your thoughts about performing more extensive maintenance at this point? 

[illinilefttackle 399]

It's kind of your call Al. I'm with you on the "if it ain't broke" thing- with the exception of the carbon cleaning from the combustion chamber & new head GASKET- THIS IS a good maintenance step & it gives you greater incite into the REAL condition of your engine- if you do this- don't forget to re torque the head bolts after a few minutes of initial running of the engine ( whenever that may be). Good Luck- take pics of the inside if you take the head off- Al

[Al C. 1,428]

It wasn't clear to me why the manual recommends removing the cylinder head and cleaning around.  Carbon deposits ... makes sense.  I will give this a try once I find a head gasket.  I will send pics (not sure I'd know what I was looking for otherwise.)  Thanks!!

[Al C. 1,428]

Well, it has been four months since the last update to this thread.  I decided not to purchase a "test" engine.  Instead, I've been reading the manuals and watching many videos.  Yesterday I opened up the SK-486 cylinder head, cleaned things out, replaced the head gasket and spark plug.  It was pretty dirty inside, but there were no major gaps or fit variances. The engine ran smoothly with plenty of power before the maintenance and runs the same afterwards.  It does startup faster after cleaning and I've been able to adjust the carborator leaner since the maintenance.  Overall I feel great that I've inspected the engine, it is in good condition, it's clean, and runs like a champ.  See the attached before-and-after picture.  Next week I'll do the same to the 1067.  Thanks to everyone on this thread for giving me the confidence and approach to trying this out.  

 

Al. 

[WHX?? 51,847]

4 hours ago, Al C. said:

and I've been able to adjust the carborator leaner since the maintenance.

 

Just be careful with that Al. engines running leaner tend to run hotter.