WHX?? 46,809 #26 Posted January 21, 2016 Don't keep us in supense too long on what happened, may have to start a pool on what it was. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,051 #27 Posted January 21, 2016 I'll bet the rod is broken. Just happened to my C-121 late this fall. Took the head off and cranked it. Valves go up and down, piston does not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #28 Posted January 21, 2016 3 hours ago, WHX6 said: may have to start a pool on what it was Yeah and I could use the proceeds to fund my repair! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #29 Posted January 21, 2016 (edited) sorry for your loss,i feel your pain,i had the k 241 let go on me a few years ago,but shes stronger than ever now,after about 500 bucks Edited January 21, 2016 by can whlvr 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tractorhogg 611 #30 Posted January 22, 2016 7 hours ago, 953 nut said: An easy way to check cylinder condition is to take your rings off the piston and insert the compression ring in the cylinder then square it up by inserting the piston, measure the ring end gap; now push it half way down using the piston to be sure it is squared up and measure again as well as looking for any gaps around the ring; repeat at the bottom of the stroke. The is a simple way of checking the condition of your cylinder with simple tools (a set of feeler gauges). Shade-tree mechanics have used this technique for years because it works. I would presume that a strong running engine that didn't knock and wasn't burning oil will probably have a good cylinder if the broken rod/piston didn't do any damage. What the heck is that item wedging the valve open and how did it get there? Good tip! and good presumption. Do they still offer the .0003 oversize ring set? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #31 Posted January 23, 2016 On 1/21/2016 at 5:01 PM, TDF5G said: I'll bet the rod is broken. Just happened to my C-121 late this fall. Took the head off and cranked it. Valves go up and down, piston does not. Yep, same scenario here too! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #32 Posted January 23, 2016 By now Im sure you know its a busted rod. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #33 Posted January 24, 2016 6 hours ago, WH nut said: By now Im sure you know its a busted rod. Correct, but I haven't started tearing it down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimf413 57 #34 Posted January 24, 2016 On 1/21/2016 at 7:31 PM, 953 nut said: Hate to say it but it isn't the ACR, it is only reducing the compression, not eliminating it, though I'm sure you know that by now. So long as the rod didn't knock out the side of the crank case it isn't too bad a job to replace the rod and piston. Chances are that if it wasn't burning oil and ran strong all you will need is the standard rebuild kit. I have a lot of WH C160's both hydro and 8 speed and I use to run my own repair shop yrs ago and had this happen on several different make machines and one turned out to be a stuck open valve and the other the piston blew a hole through the top. Not sure what your problem may be but these are just a few possibility's along with the ACR. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,495 #35 Posted January 24, 2016 This posting is more frightening than JONAS BLIZZARD photos! Ken: It looks like you are just going to have to use one of your other tractors for a while ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #36 Posted January 25, 2016 On 1/24/2016 at 3:43 AM, Lane Ranger said: This posting is more frightening than JONAS BLIZZARD photos! Ken: It looks like you are just going to have to use one of your other tractors for a while ! Yeah, I used the GT-14 in the past and I have it ready to go, but was looking forward to using the C-160...Oh well! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
