building high hp puller

[bigtruckmechanic 0]

I'm new to red square, so here goes. I started a wheel horse pulling tractor (because everyone always uses a cub cadet) about 6 months ago. I'm useing a B-60 chassis with a lot of mods. The engine is a 40 cube kohler with about 50-60 hp. I'm using the 8 pinion rear-end that was in the tractor. I read a post that Deere Hunter replied to, he said it would hold if everything was in good shape and he installed loader axles. My question is what are loader axles and is there anyway of eliminating the low range like the 3 speeds ?

[ol550 830]

:hide:

I don't know what he was talking about but doesn't the B-60 have 1 inch axles?

[Nick 13]

The loader axles were heavy duty axles recommended for use with duals when a loader was installed. But if the existing axles are in good shape I dont know how much they would help. Wayne or one of the other pullers would know though.

ol550, The B60 did have a 1-1/8" axles and 8 pinion transmission.

[JimD 3,345]

:hide: big. if you don't use the low range, why would it need to be eliminated? just curious, never thought about it before. i have a b-60 and use it to mow and plow snow, but i don't use the low range because i have better luck with speed when plowing the driveway. thanks.

[bigtruckmechanic 0]

my b-60 does have the 1 1/8 axles. When I took it apart it looks like that would be the week point the way the range gear slides over the other gear for direct

[Deere Hunter 54]

My question is what are loader axles

The major difference between the loader axles and standard axles is, the loader axles use a 1/4" sqaure cut key instead of the woodruf key on the standard axles. If you notice when you remove the hub off the axle the woodruff key goes almost halfway thru the axle. This actaully weakens it. I have seen alot of stock pulling tractors break the axle right at the keyway. Plus on the loader axle the 1/4" keyway gives you alot more surface area on the hub than the woodruff key does.

I wouldnt worry about the low range, it never seemed to effect the performance of my puller. But you may want to put some type of shifter look on it to keep it in high range. I have heard they will try to push out of high range under extreme loads, which may take some teeth off the gears if it does. Build a shifter lock to lock it in 2nd or 3rd also while your there.

The 40 cube motor, is this a single or twin Kohler?

Have you welded in the rear frame reinforcement that Toro sells? If not you may want to check into this to beef up the frame. It is a 1/4" steel plate with the bolt holes drilled for the tranny mount.

If ya have any more questions, just ask. :hide:

[bigtruckmechanic 0]

the engine is a single cylider, I have not installed the reinforcement I cut off the mounting braket and flipped it over to lower the chassis, while I was at it I also stretched the wheel base to 56 inches NQS rules. Is the reinforcement just a plate that you weld to the mounting braket?

[BPjunk 184]

bigtruckmechanic,

Welcome to Red Square. I am also a diesel tech/heavy truck mechanic (28 years) and enjoy the sport of pullin' too.

The Uni-Drive model 5091 in the B-60 is a good choice as most B-60 tractors did not get abused too bad with only a 6hp Kohler (not many were used with ground engauging equipment which is harder on the transmission). The eight pinion 1-1/8 inch axle Uni-Drive will handle up to 55 horse power if every thing is in good shape. (parts start to break if more horse power is applied) The differential can be made to be a "full locker" if the pinion gears are removed a splined connector is placed inside the carrier. Straight 30 or 50 weight synthetic oil can be used IF THE TRACTOR IS NOT RIDDEN TOO FAR.

Wild Bill in Richmond, Va.

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[Deere Hunter 54]

Yes, the plate just welds in on the bolt head side. Its not uncommon to find the frame cracked around the bolt holes.

I have never thought about flipping the plate to sit it lower. Have you had any issues getting the belt tensioner figured out? I would love to see pics of how it is turning out.

[BPjunk 184]

the engine is a single cylider, I have not installed the reinforcement I cut off the mounting braket and flipped it over to lower the chassis, while I was at it I also stretched the wheel base to 56 inches NQS rules. Is the reinforcement just a plate that you weld to the mounting braket?

The Wheel Horse refinforcemnt plate was a factory fix for the frames built from 1961 to 1964 that did not have the "ribs' built into the transmission mount.

This plate is no more then a pice of 1/4 steel plate that bolted to the FRONT SIDE of the transmission mount. You need to use longer mounting bolts when the plate is installed.

Wild Bill in Richmond, va.

[bigtruckmechanic 0]

I'm not using a belt. I'm going to use a chain, for a clutch I have turned a cub clutch sideways behind the engine like a jackshaft and just chain driving it off a sprocket on the flywheel. Its not complete yet. Flipping the bracket over lowers it about 4 inches, it looks good. I cut a 14 inch square in the fender pan and built the seat 4 inches down into the fenders.

[rwilson 128]

I would like to see some pics of your project. :hide:

[Coadster32 793]

From one newbie to another, . I don't know much about pulling, but Ilike pics too! :D

[bigtruckmechanic 0]

sorry no pics of the new project so you can look at my other tractor. I custom built the chassis the engine is a 98 yamaha yfz 1000r it has 34x18x15 cepeks on the rear IT DOES HAVE WHEEL HORSE STEERRING

[Michael Bullington 5]

hey big truck Mechanic

Hey are you in the Tennessee City area! I think Ive seen this tractor pull!!

Michael

[rwilson 128]

Verry nice tractor. I have seen these tractors with street bike motors on them and always wondered how you hook the drive up. Is it just like the bike with the chain and sprocket, or do you do something different??

[bigtruckmechanic 0]

yes that is it just chains and sprockets but we use a jackshaft for double reduction. Some people turn the engine sideways and build a driveshaft from the engine to a car trans and rear-end. I prefer the chain. My wife and I do pull with the Tennessee city club

[Michael Bullington 5]

The 654 in my avaitar came from one of your members in the Tennessee city club...Im not sure which one,,,my dad bought it several years back...Ill check with him to see who it was!

What type of rear-end do most of the open pullers use?

Also where are you guys pulling now? Still out on hwy 48?

[poodle 0]

bigtruckmechanic,

The differential can be made to be a "full locker" if the pinion gears are removed a splined connector is placed inside the carrier. Straight 30 or 50 weight synthetic oil can be used IF THE TRACTOR IS NOT RIDDEN TOO FAR.

Wild Bill in Richmond, Va.

I too am building a puller I saw this discription of how to make a full time posi and had a few questions like were can I get the parts?and will the revs still work? I use this tractor around the house as well as at the track for moving snow and a small utility trailer

[baerpath 517]

Poodle, If you use the tractor for anything but as a dedicated puller you don't want to lock the rear. They don't turn very well after that All mine are running open rears.

Duane

[jerrell 1]

:hide: If you lock the gears wouldn't that affect the steering, when you turn r or l dosn't one rear wheel slow down and the other speed up.???? :D

[poodle 0]

thanks for the intell wasn't sure what it would do I have a 701 in real nice shape that I'm starting to restore and a 1056 that I use in local pulls and around the yard like I said thanks again for the info still new to the Wheel Horse addiction and pulling compition's to!!!