Best paint

[tractorhogg 611]

8 minutes ago, car said:

Remember we're talking about a plastic hood so I should still use primer?

If the primer would hurt it the paint would hurt it worse. I understand you wont be dealing with rust, but leveling and feathering will be as tough or tougher on plastic than it is on metal.

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

Boy o boy, we got a good thread going here. Glad I caught it. Good comments by everyone. 

 

Glenn

[tractorhogg 611]

9 minutes ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

Boy o boy, we got a good thread going here. Glad I caught it. Good comments by everyone. 

 

Glenn

It is a good thread, but as another poster already alluded to, we each have a comfort zone in which we operate. It is very difficult to move someone from their comfort zone right or wrong, lol

[rmaynard 14,906]

And having used spray cans successfully for most of my 65 years for projects large and small, I finally realized on my first restoration back in 2010 that something like a tractor must be done differently if you want it to last. For that reason, all of my Wheel Horses are painted for show, and I only use single-stage, acrylic urethane automotive paint.

[tractorhogg 611]

35 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

And having used spray cans successfully for most of my 65 years for projects large and small, I finally realized on my first restoration back in 2010 that something like a tractor must be done differently if you want it to last. For that reason, all of my Wheel Horses are painted for show, and I only use single-stage, acrylic urethane automotive paint.

However as others have said, spray cans can give an old tractor much needed protection and good looks even without using the higher cost paint, again we all must operate within our own abilities and comfort zones. I actually am divided on whether or not to paint, because to do it really right, and to satisfy me,  it would involve a total take down, and right now I am not able to that, not until I get the four tractors back together that I am working on now, not until I finish finals this week and complete my research proposal for next springs capstone project, not until I complete and pass five classes and graduate next May, and not until the doctor gives my colon an all clear and I'm not back under the knife.

[mikekot3 92]

What would the color code for PPG urethane paint be for 1994 Wheel horse 416-8?

[Tankman 3,515]

Here's an older project, Rustoleum Regal Red, coarse skateboard grip tape and Terry's great new decals.

Wheels are also Rustoleum, I forget the color. Linen white perhaps. Silver wheels we use Duplicolor Wheel Paint, Great stuff.

Our favorite upgrade, lug nuts. 7/16-20 x 1-1/2" long bolts and open end acorn lug nuts.

 

I might add, we always keep the Stallions in the barn after their work s done.

 

 

Edited December 9, 2015 by Tankman

[dcrage 621]

On 12/8/2015 at 10:15 AM, tractorhogg said:

 If I learned anything about painting or auto repair in 30 years it is that it if I am in possession of male parts then I am as qualified and knowledgeable as anyone that has worked in the particular field for a lifetime

 

OK -- The above quoted last line out of Al's earlier post brought about a large smile as I thought "Yeah, we really can resemble that remark"

[TDF5G 2,051]

21 hours ago, Tankman said:

My vote goes to Rustoleum Regal Red. Usually on the shelf at Home "Cheapo".

'Bout $4.00 a rattle can. Holds up well.

I did a little touch up the other day with a can of Rustoleum Sunrise Red that I had sitting around from a previous project.  It matched pretty well.   

 

[JP 141 79]

I have used Rustoleum Sunrise Red with primer and it looks good and has lasted, the hood, rear fender, and plow is this color...or course the prep is the key...don't get in a hurry. 

[953 nut 51,734]

23 minutes ago, JP 141 said:

the prep is the key...don't get in a hurry.

     Great paint jobs begin with proper preparation, regardless of what the color coat is it won't look good or hold up well if the preparation has been sloppy. Sand off all deteriorated previous coatings, prime and wet sand using a long sanding block with crossing diagonal pattern, prime and wet sand again and check everything over for scratches, dents you missed or other problems. Now you may be ready to spray some color. One added benefit to several coats of primer is that you get a chance to practice your technique before the top coat. Patience really pays when it comes to paint jobs.

[tractorhogg 611]

Any good rattle can can give you a good job, but the hood and horizontal surfaces start to get less shiny over time, even an old car can look shiny with car paint, but a rattle can will dull in a much shorter time, even in the garage, and without spraying it with a clear UV coat that is assured. A quality two part paint or paint with hardener is much more resistant to dulling. That said, it is not always possible for many reasons for everyone to use that type of paint, I understand that, but rattle cans and two part paint do differ in quality of paint job. Still that doesn't mean you can't get a good job from a rattle can, but it will dull and it will dull in different places at different rates. I think everyone here knows that and does a darn good job in prep and storage, which ultimately is what saves these old machines. BTW every tractor posted here looks GREAT and I would be proud to own or buy one. I am not abdicating that everyone should use two part paint, just that it does differ. On a final note, using a good alkyd oil base enamel with Naphtha as a reducer and adding a hardening agent for gloss and color retention is cheaper than rattle cans. A gallon of the paint is 35.00 the Naphtha is 15.00 and the hardener is 15.00, thats 65.00 dollars equal to 10-12 spray cans in cost only this will cover three times as much. just yakkin.

Edited December 9, 2015 by tractorhogg

[Ken B 3,116]

I painted this little bundle of joy almost 3 yrs. ago with Rustoleum Regal Red and it is holding up very well. I did all the body work and prep just as I would have if I were using automotive paints. I spent 3 solid days on the body work alone. It wasn't meant to be any type of show tractor, just something to beat around on and that is exactly what I do with it...  It has been to 3 Big Shows and it always gets run hard in the Saturday night Dust Bowl. Now, if i'm going to do a "show" tractor I'm with Bob Maynard, Its going to get only automotive paints, ESPECIALLY if its a more difficult tractor to take apart and put back together. If I'm going to do a 520 or similar tractor to be a "show" queen I won't waste my time with spray bomb paints because this type tractor is much more involved in taking apart and reassembling and you are much more likely to scratch it putting it back together.  If I'm going to do that much work it may as well be done with the good stuff, JMO. The Suburban does get waxed with carnanuba wax to help keep it shiny. I don't clear coat any tractor that I spray bomb with Rustoleum as I have found the results to be too unpredictable. Even following all the recommendations of the manufacturer sometimes the paint wrinkles up and then you are nothing but pissed off because the paint WAS perfect and now you are at square one.. So, before you add that clear coat I gotta ask.. Are you feelin lucky?  

Edited December 9, 2015 by Ken B

[car 24]

Did you wet sand any of these?

 

[Ken B 3,116]

28 minutes ago, car said:

Did you wet sand any of these?

 

I'm not sure if you are asking me but if so then no I didn't wet sand. Before I paint a tractor with Rustoleum I make absolutely sure that there is no dust present. When I paint I usually hold a light in one hand as I'm painting because it helps me to see what I call dry spots or uneven coverage.. you only have so much control out of a spray nozzle. When I'm putting on the final coat I make sure its a good wet one. Ya gotta know when to say when before you cause a run but that only comes from experience i guess. Rustoeum paint does take some time before you can handle it so you have to paint where you know it won't get crap in it or some clown comes along and decides to touch it. If I do have to wet sand a tractor that I used Rustoeum on I wait at least a month and that long wait is mostly because buffing will take place soon after wet sanding and Rustoeum burns real easy...

Edited December 10, 2015 by Ken B

[tractorhogg 611]

48 minutes ago, Ken B said:

I painted this little bundle of joy almost 3 yrs. ago with Rustoleum Regal Red and it is holding up very well. I did all the body work and prep just as I would have if I were using automotive paints. I spent 3 solid days on the body work alone. It wasn't meant to be any type of show tractor, just something to beat around on and that is exactly what I do with it...  It has been to 3 Big Shows and it always gets run hard in the Saturday night Dust Bowl. Now, if i'm going to do a "show" tractor I'm with Bob Maynard, Its going to get only automotive paints, ESPECIALLY if its a more difficult tractor to take apart and put back together. If I'm going to do a 520 or similar tractor to be a "show" queen I won't waste my time with spray bomb paints because this type tractor is much more involved in taking apart and reassembling and you are much more likely to scratch it putting it back together.  If I'm going to do that much work it may as well be done with the good stuff, JMO. The Suburban does get waxed with carnanuba wax to help keep it shiny. I don't clear coat any tractor that I spray bomb with Rustoleum as I have found the results to be too unpredictable. Even following all the recommendations of the manufacturer sometimes the paint wrinkles up and then you are nothing but pissed off because the paint WAS perfect and now you are at square one.. So, before you add that clear coat I gotta ask.. Are you feelin lucky?  

That is an excellent point about the difference in tractors, older tractor tin and make up is totally different than the newer 400 and 500 series tractors, there is alot more thinner tin on them that covers more of the tractor, whereas the older tractors have a lot more steel and cast showing, very different painting surfaces!

Edited December 10, 2015 by tractorhogg

[Tankman 3,515]

Usually just use Scotch Brite or if really bad, some with my vibrating sander. We're not making watches.

 

One Horse however a friend sand blasted for me, piece by piece. Rustoleum Regal Red and Terry's great decals.

 

New TSC seat, old hubcaps I had. $200.00 total!

 

 

 

Edited December 10, 2015 by Tankman

[tractorhogg 611]

One Horse however a friend sand blasted for me, piece by piece

Hey Tankman, do you know what medium the sandblaster used? Was the metal pitted, or did it need primer? I have a friend who says that sand blasting pits the metal so bad that multiple coats of primer must be used, I don't really believe this, am i wrong

[Tankman 3,515]

18 minutes ago, tractorhogg said:

One Horse however a friend sand blasted for me, piece by piece

Hey Tankman, do you know what medium the sandblaster used? Was the metal pitted, or did it need primer? I have a friend who says that sand blasting pits the metal so bad that multiple coats of primer must be used, I don't really believe this, am i wrong

Don't know but no problems with pitting. Used Rustoleum Regal Red spray cans. Worked very well.

 

Leon Redbone was scrapping a new 48" SD deck and mule drive. I volunteered to help him out and haul the stuff away for him, for free too. Lucky him! 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I owned an autobody and frame shop back in the 70's and early 80's, for well, 15 years.  I suppose I was up to date on most everything back then but things have changed and I've not kept up.  A few things haven't changed. 

 

Not everyone can afford to do it right.  Period!  Does that mean they do nothing?  Maybe... Sometimes... But sometimes folks preserve the work and not the show.  It's the way it is!

Not everyone will agree on what is right!  Period!  I've read most of this and I don't agree with everything, but like I said, things have changed since the 80's.  Thank goodness!  I'm not sure that what I knew 30 years ago fully applies today, but I know some of it still does.

It's really tough for even the Pros to completely remove ALL rust and restore to like new!  It's really easy to paint over everything and make it look better for awhile.

 

In my opinion, to FULLY restore an old rusty WH would cost more than anyone would want to pay.  It would just make so much more sense to pay TOP dollar for an original that never saw a blade of grass!  But that doesn't apply to most of us.  Most of us want something that works well and looks decent.  Oh some of us want more than decent, and that's OK too but then some just want an old original wiped down with WD40 for goodness sake!  And not all of us can afford to buy a NOS 416-H!

 

Some paint over everything, some grind first, some wire brush, some sandblast, some sandblast and metal prep, some do all that and much more (bless you guys!).  The more you do right the longer it lasts, but more is not for everyone...

[tractorhogg 611]

11 minutes ago, Tankman said:

Don't know but no problems with pitting. Used Rustoleum Regal Red spray cans. Worked very well.

 

Leon Redbone was scrapping a new 48" SD deck and mule drive. I volunteered to help him out and haul the stuff away for him, for free too. Lucky him! 

I didn't think there would be that kind of issue with sand blasting, sounds like he was taking out of the blaster

5 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

I owned an autobody and frame shop back in the 70's and early 80's, for well, 15 years.  I suppose I was up to date on most everything back then but things have changed and I've not kept up.  A few things haven't changed. 

 

Not everyone can afford to do it right.  Period!  Does that mean they do nothing?  Maybe... Sometimes... But sometimes folks preserve the work and not the show.  It's the way it is!

Not everyone will agree on what is right!  Period!  I've read most of this and I don't agree with everything, but like I said, things have changed since the 80's.  Thank goodness!  I'm not sure that what I knew 30 years ago fully applies today, but I know some of it still does.

It's really tough for even the Pros to completely remove ALL rust and restore to like new!  It's really easy to paint over everything and make it look better for awhile.

 

In my opinion, to FULLY restore an old rusty WH would cost more than anyone would want to pay.  It would just make so much more sense to pay TOP dollar for an original that never saw a blade of grass!  But that doesn't apply to most of us.  Most of us want something that works well and looks decent.  Oh some of us want more than decent, and that's OK too but then some just want an old original wiped down with WD40 for goodness sake!  And not all of us can afford to buy a NOS 416-H!

 

Some paint over everything, some grind first, some wire brush, some sandblast, some sandblast and metal prep, some do all that and much more (bless you guys!).  The more you do right the longer it lasts, but more is not for everyone...

Very good points. i guess it keeps going back to "different strokes for different folks" and to each his own, and that's okay. I think the standard around here is pretty darn high in that people do darn good work no matter what they use

[Tankman 3,515]

8 hours ago, tractorhogg said:

I didn't think there would be that kind of issue with sand blasting, sounds like he was taking out of the blaster

He wasn't using sand, some other media.

 

The '90 520-8 was outdoors like years. Too many nooks 'n crannies impossible to sand. Friend with a big BIG blasting machine offered, free.

 

Regal Red was  painted, couple of coats, immediately after blasting and air dust off. Piece by piece.

Reassembled using SS hardware and Never-Seez of course.

 

The poor Stallion lives indoors now when not working for a living. At my age, and grandsons, kind of wish it were a hydro. 

The Onan had been rebuilt. I always loved Kohlers but now like this 20 hp Onan too.

 

We love our Horses, grandsons need to ride. We have "other" tractors but the Stallions do most of the wo....wo.....work!

The B-10 pictured, I installed a 16 hp Briggs. Used primarily for the mid-mount grader.

 

Edited December 10, 2015 by Tankman

[DennisThornton 4,769]

After owning my own body shop I had a fire, ended up moving, got divorced and then all I could afford was brush painting my Power King.  Still got the PK and yes, it needs redoing, but it was all I could do at the time.  I'm a little sensitive to expecting folks to do the best when many don't know how and some just can't at the time.  Other times it just isn't appropriate...  For many they do what they know now and learn as time goes by.  We try to help those who want to know a bit more...

[tractorhogg 611]

27 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

After owning my own body shop I had a fire, ended up moving, got divorced and then all I could afford was brush painting my Power King.  Still got the PK and yes, it needs redoing, but it was all I could do at the time.  I'm a little sensitive to expecting folks to do the best when many don't know how and some just can't at the time.  Other times it just isn't appropriate...  For many they do what they know now and learn as time goes by.  We try to help those who want to know a bit more...

Hey Dennis, give me a good brush and the right thinner and I can make a brush job look pretty good. I have painted metal structures and equipment for years and I know you can get a decent job that protects the equipment no matter what you use. I know real well about problems, after getting a divorce i lost my eyesight several times quit drinking, quit smoking and enrolled in college,My current wife and I have been living on 14k a year from student loans for the last 4 years, 90 percent of that 14k I will have to repay, yep, I know poor. I also believe that I am very fortunate and always want to consider myself blessed that I am still here with the hope of giving back in the future. I have not seen one person on this entire forum that doesn't seem to hold himself up to pretty high standards in the care of their machines, visit some other forums, ya'll are pretty darn good around here.

[Ken B 3,116]

7 hours ago, tractorhogg said:

Hey Dennis, give me a good brush and the right thinner and I can make a brush job look pretty good. I have painted metal structures and equipment for years and I know you can get a decent job that protects the equipment no matter what you use. I know real well about problems, after getting a divorce i lost my eyesight several times quit drinking, quit smoking and enrolled in college,My current wife and I have been living on 14k a year from student loans for the last 4 years, 90 percent of that 14k I will have to repay, yep, I know poor. I also believe that I am very fortunate and always want to consider myself blessed that I am still here with the hope of giving back in the future. I have not seen one person on this entire forum that doesn't seem to hold himself up to pretty high standards in the care of their machines, visit some other forums, ya'll are pretty darn good around here.

Now your'e talkin... I have restored at least a half dozen wood boats. When people hear that I painted them with a brush you always get the chuckles... That is until they see it and there are no runs and no crap in the paint either. Oh, and no brush marks. If I do so happen to get a run or bug in the paint you can bet I'm going to fix it, that would be to embarrassing to leave. They really do look that good, not just another good from far and far from good paint job.  Its all about the prep, using quality marine paint, quality brushes, keeping a wet edge and following the weather... Did I mention patience? Here are just a few pics of many boats I have done, the Dunphy just this past summer. The weather sucked this summer, I had to paint the DunphyTWICE because of unpredictable weather. Right now I'm wandering around aimlessly, Projectless. I hope the OP got what he was looking for.. Good thread all the same..