Best paint

[car 24]

I'm going to touch up the hood on a 268-H. The whole hood doesn't need painted just where I'm going to make a repair. What brand of spray paint would you recommend? Also I'm going to repaint my 310-8 later this year.

[tractorhogg 611]

Spray paint is not the same paint and will lose its shine and color fairly quickly. if you are going to rattle can it, best to use a clear UV over it and try to buff it in. A professional car painter can do this with the right type of paint, this is what they do to used cars on the lot to make the look new, but a few months later it often sticks out like a wart on a beauty queen. If it doesn't bother or matter to you, just pick up a can of IH red at the farm store, van sickle is one of the better brands, but if your short on cash the Majic brand is cheaper.

[rmaynard 14,909]

Don't use Majic. In my opinion it is the worst paint made. Just search Majic on this forum for more similar opinions. 

[tractorhogg 611]

4 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Don't use Majic. In my opinion it is the worst paint made. Just search Majic on this forum for more similar opinions. 

That's why I said what I said, but I didn't want to put it that way. but Majic will look as good as any spray paint if all your going to do is touch it up, its still going to be a touch up spot and even if it looks good today it would take a professional to blend it in the look right six months down the road, really easier to paint the whole thing. I'm a little jaded due to having to remove so much spray paint from tractors to be able to repaint them right.

[pacer 3,159]

Matching old paint like this for the average guy is virtually impossible (would be difficult for a professional) A hood is pretty small, so to my thinking a complete repaint would be the way to go....

 

PS: I agree the Majic is horrible! maybe if you have a month or two for it to dry, it might be a good paint

[tractorhogg 611]

I find that many people pick a product because it is cheap and some of those people really do not care if it looks real good, that's kind of up to the individual as to what he (or she) can live with so I (well at least nowadays) try not to judge another persons motivation. Yes Majic paint is pure garbage, but it is cheap, lol

[illinilefttackle 399]

Good Luck!- Al

 

http://vid267.photobucket.com/albums/ii284/illinilefttackle/WHEEL%20HORSE/DSCF0023.mp4

First pic+ RUSTOLEUM SUNRISE RED

VIDEO-RUSTOLEUM REGAL RED

NO CLEAR ON EITHER- just give it a week to really cure- dries to handle overnite

 

[wrightorchid 261]

considering the amount of time spent on prepping for paint, go with a good quality paint, even if only on the top/outside of the hood.  I hear the Eastwood 2-part spray can paints are good, but have not tried them yet.  They are pricey, but more like an automotive paint.

Edited December 8, 2015 by wrightorchid

[tractorhogg 611]

Give it a week to cure, lol, lol, lol Any paint that takes a week to cure is bad, fortunately the statement is incorrect, the paint doesn't take a week to cure, the owner let it dry for a week, because it was applied in a way that one might want to err on the side of caution. Anyone using spray cans probably doesn't know a great deal about paint, or maybe they do, but it is not exactly the optimal product to use. It is used primarily by those who do not have the knowledge how to use quality paints or have the equipment or place to do so. My wife uses it in the back yard to spray kids projects, works great. I can cover a tractor in pig poo and make it look like a great brown paint job in pictures and I can say it will last forever, but that statement can not be verified in any way. The chemical make up of spray paints in cans contains high amounts of xylene or other synthetic reducers in order to thin the paint to atomize through the tip and to allow it to dry fast enough not to run too bad. This does not equate into a formula for a durable long lasting finish even if it may seem to last for many, or if they claim it does. If it was really good our vehicles/tractors would be sprayed with the same formula. I'll let those in the paint business add to this discussion as this is turning into a professional/scientific discussion. My 30 years in the paint field is in lacquer application more than auto/tractor paints, so I will defer to any of those that actually paint cars/trucks for a living. If I learned anything about painting or auto repair in 30 years it is that it if I am in possession of male parts then I am as qualified and knowledgeable as anyone that has worked in the particular field for a lifetime

[Tankman 3,515]

My vote goes to Rustoleum Regal Red. Usually on the shelf at Home "Cheapo".

'Bout $4.00 a rattle can. Holds up well.

[tractorhogg 611]

4 minutes ago, Tankman said:

My vote goes to Rustoleum Regal Red. Usually on the shelf at Home "Cheapo".

'Bout $4.00 a rattle can. Holds up well.

Rustoleum makes some really good spray paint, maybe one of the best, especially the Professional  Series in the silver can. I wish I could get it at "home cheapo" for four bucks around here it is 5.99, as it is on the home cheapo's website, however I haven't put in other zip codes to check for pricing in other areas. The problem with rattle cans is that they are not UV resistant and are prone to deglossing and fading. The benefit of spray cans is that everyone seems to believe that their choice of brand and method of application works well and holds up nearly as well as original paint or professionally painted tractors. That said, I know most really don't believe that, but are merely assuring themselves that the products and workmanship they used was more than adequate, we all do that even myself, we learned how to do it by responding in the same way to our bosses, wives (same thing), and children. i guess what I am trying to say is that our responses, mine included, with a little more thought (crap, I hate that), can be even more beneficial. Example: While it isn't a professional repaint job, I have opted to use XYZ brand and apply 2 coats in full sunlight and then let it cure for a certain time. I also store it in the garage or under a tarp to reduce fading, your results may vary. I really didn't want to turn this thread into a discussion on the lines of "which oil should I use". Sorry. 

[Racinbob 10,296]

I just had to check......Oklahoma.....I was starting to think about a different state 

Getting back to the original question, car, you won't be able to get a great match but most likely Rustoleum Regal or Sunrise will be as good as you'll get. If and when you decide to do a full repaint don't hesitate to use rattle cans. Beautiful results can be achieved and, let's face it, we're not painting a classic muscle car. If you go with the top shelf stuff, hats off to you. I love seeing those machines too. 

 

[Ken B 3,116]

What it all boils down to is how much do you wanna spend and are you capable? If you don't have the equipment to spray automotive paints then you probably don't have the needed experience either... I was taught well over 30 yrs. ago to master painting with a can first before moving onto a spray gun... I don't paint for a living but I can paint either way and when I say that I mean that I can paint one tractor with a gun and automotive paints and another with my preferred brand of spray can and one is going to look as nice as the other.., Anyone can push a button on a spray can but its still going to take some time to master it but spray cans are cheap. If you know what you are doing you can get a flawless finish from a spray can that looks like a body shop painted it.  As mentioned,, you won't get the UV protection out of a can but my tractors don't stay outside 24/7. So.... I think when these paint questions come up we need to first determine what the experience level of the person asking is and how much do they wanna spend before any recommendations...

Edited December 8, 2015 by Ken B

[tractorhogg 611]

3 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

I just had to check......Oklahoma.....I was starting to think about a different state 

Getting back to the original question, car, you won't be able to get a great match but most likely Rustoleum Regal or Sunrise will be as good as you'll get. If and when you decide to do a full repaint don't hesitate to use rattle cans. Beautiful results can be achieved and, let's face it, we're not painting a classic muscle car. If you go with the top shelf stuff, hats off to you. I love seeing those machines too. 

 

Agreed, but in using the rattle cans, like Racinbob said, that Rustoleum is pretty darn good, much better than some of the cheaper brands

4 minutes ago, Ken B said:

What it all boils down to is how much do you wanna spend and are you capable? If you don't have the equipment to spray automotive paints then you probably don't have the needed experience either... I was taught well over 30 yrs. ago to master painting with a can first before moving onto a spray gun... I don't paint for a living but I can paint either way and when I say that I mean that I can paint one tractor with a gun and automotive paints and another with my preferred brand of spray can and one is going to look as nice as the other.., Anyone can push a button on a spray can but its still going to take some time to master it but spray cans are cheap. If you know what you are doing you can get a flawless finish from a spray can that looks like a body shop painted it.  As mentioned,, you won't get the UV protection out of a can but my tractors don't stay outside 24/7. So.... I think when these paint questions come up we need to first determine what the experience level of the person asking is and how much do they wanna spend before any recommendations...

Agreed, good post Ken

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

1 hour ago, tractorhogg said:

 I really didn't want to turn this thread into a discussion on the lines of "which oil should I use". Sorry. 

 

we're talking about painting one, not leaving the patina

[tractorhogg 611]

3 minutes ago, C-101plowerpower said:

 

we're talking about painting one, not leaving the patina

Oh Koen, I just go overboard because I love these old machines. I don't mean to be a curmudgeon or ill-mannered. I want to help, but sometimes I should just keep my mouth shut, maybe I should apply some of that oil to my typing fingers 

[Racinbob 10,296]

You're doing fine. We're all here for the love of these little red tractors. Whatever the skill level is of an individual is or his/her limitation by equipment it doesn't matter. We all have fun and appreciate the efforts of others to save a piece of America.. 

[illinilefttackle 399]

My post was an attempt to help someone on Redsquare that likes his Wheel Horse tractors, and would like to improve the way they look. This is a "Hobby" to me, something I enjoy. I try to do the best I can in within that frame. I am not into repainting my tractors for show, or for the "Ultimate" in paint jobs. My results work for me. I've been knocking around on this planet for just short of seventy-one years. I rebuilt my first car engine when I was 15, and repainted my first car 2 years later. I have run into guys who need to tout their abilities before, even when not ask for. I know how to paint, how to prepare, how to finish-but this my Hobby..... I buy Regal Red @ Walmart for $4 a can- for that price, and because of the results I get- it beats anything else. It is not "Bad paint" Depending on the temperature, it can take a week to get hard.- Lets just enjoy these Tractors and our Hobby- regardless how "Professional" we are.- Thanks- Al

Edited December 9, 2015 by illinilefttackle

[tractorhogg 611]

Thanks Racinbob, i'm not a pro at anything, ask my wife, lol, but if I was a pro it would be for the love of these old machines and those that built them and those that keep them alive.

1 minute ago, illinilefttackle said:

My post was an attempt to help someone on Redsquare that likes his Wheel Horse tractors, and would like to improve the way they look. This is a "Hobby" to me, something I enjoy. I try to do the best I can in within that frame. I am not into repainting my tractors for show, or for the "Ultimate" in paint jobs. My results work for me. I've been knocking around on this planet for just short of seventy years. I rebuilt my first car engine when I was 15, and repainted my first car 2 years later. I have run into guys who need to tout their abilities before, even when not ask for. I know how to paint, how to prepare, how to finish-but this my Hobby..... I buy Regal Red @ Walmart for $4 a can- for that price, and because of the results I get- it beats anything else. It is not "Bad paint" Depending on the temperature, it can take a week to get hard.- Lets just enjoy these Tractors and our Hobby- regardless how "Professional" we are.- Thanks- Al

I kind of misunderstood your post, it started when you said "Good luck Al, I thought you were talking to me, but I'm guessing your an Al too, lol. I didn't mean to be disrespectful and I respect your commitment and knowledge. Thanks Al, from Al

[car 24]

Would you use a primer first or just sand it down and paint it?

[tractorhogg 611]

There was no primer originally, but that said, a primer serves several beneficial purposes. First, the paint they used back in the day (maybe not in the 268 day, but still it was an industrial coating) was many times stronger (and more dangerous) than what we use today. Second it might help to level an area of scratches or mars. Lastly, it creates a sacrificial layer that rust will attack before it attacks the paint. All that said, you don't need a primer, but some type of primer may be helpful. Remember paint is a wet film that dries into a dry layer, the vehicle such as the water or thinner evaporate allowing the paint molecules to bind together, when this happens paint gets thinner, but stronger if adequately applied.

[Racinbob 10,296]

I always prime first. I just primed my 400 hood yesterday. I would say do what they say to do on the can 

[tractorhogg 611]

1 minute ago, Racinbob said:

I always prime first. I just primed my 400 hood yesterday. I would say do what they say to do on the can 

I would also add to maybe spray a small spot under the hood or dash to make sure your paint or primer do not react to your factory, or non factory paint if by  chance someone has repainted it or the particular spray contains unusually high levels of "hot" reducers, some do. Also make sure your primer and paint are of the same family as some primers won't do well with others of a different chemical makeup, they are not always clear on the label, but if you break out the magnifying glass it should be on the back in tiny print.

[illinilefttackle 399]

27 minutes ago, car said:

Would you use a primer first or just sand it down and paint it?

I always use Rustoleum Rust colored primer -then follow directions on the can for final finish coating- Thanks- Al

[car 24]

Remember we're talking about a plastic hood so I should still use primer?