wheel Paint

[TDF5G 2,054]

I agree.  They're only original once.  I would never paint a good original tractor.   I don't like the over restored look either.  I've seen many over restored cars and pickups at shows and don't care for them at all.  I'd much rather check out the unrestored ones or the correctly restored cars and trucks.  

I like to see the restored WHs done back to original too.  

[Brian01 481]

I'd like to find another RJ or suburban with the original patina! In decent shape. 

GOOD LUCK! Don't find em at all round here. Or I can't anyway

[tractorhogg 611]

There are many good options when it comes to paint, even a rattle can job can slow the deterioration of metal greatly. What I have a problem with is when someone takes a torch/saw to a rare/vintage machine and starts acting like a 14 year old with a AMF Red Rider bike.
I use most of my machines and I have a couple that are show. These machines are intended for use, but they will not last long if over used or abused. It's funny I don't see that happening on this site, but some sites seem to have many that are using vintage machines because they are short of money and are often asking them to do things that will not allow them to be around long. Last winter several big GT sites had member tractors going down left and right, many beyond economical repair or needing to be repowered. A few harsh winters and there will be a lot less tractors and alot less people that frequent those forums. There will come a time when ther wives will allow them to buy that ZTR or big John Deere on payments so they have time to do other things for them.</rant> lol

Edited November 13, 2015 by tractorhogg

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

I use antique white- rustoleum- #7794

 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2015 by J.A.

[quahog 14]

J.A.  Those   match  the  Chry  cool  vanilla   and  Volvo  red  I  selected.  Sprayed  the   red  bits  today   but   think  more   matte  additive  would  look  more   period correct..  Need  to  wait  overnight. Quahog

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

The red I used is rustoleum farm specialty enamel- international red. It takes a day or two to dry but has a great finish to it. 

[tractorhogg 611]

The red I used is rustoleum farm specialty enamel- international red. It takes a day or two to dry but has a great finish to it. 

Paint should dry in a couple hours. You need reducer and hardener if it is taking that long. If the paint takes more than 15 minutes to be dry to touch it risks getting all kind of trash in it and it means the paint will be soft when it does dry and be susceptible to scratching.

[Rob.A.700 306]

I had the same problem but the wheels were all red... so I had them sand blasted I will be painting tomorrow and I went with the antique white. 

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

The red I used is rustoleum farm specialty enamel- international red. It takes a day or two to dry but has a great finish to it. 

Paint should dry in a couple hours. You need reducer and hardener if it is taking that long. If the paint takes more than 15 minutes to be dry to touch it risks getting all kind of trash in it and it means the paint will be soft when it does dry and be susceptible to scratching.

your right, I can touch it in about 10-15 minutes but I meant couple days for it to be completely cured to assemble. Paint stays soft for awhile. 

It maybe sooner, I just usually wait 2 days to be safe. 

That's just me though. 

[tractorhogg 611]

The red I used is rustoleum farm specialty enamel- international red. It takes a day or two to dry but has a great finish to it. 

Paint should dry in a couple hours. You need reducer and hardener if it is taking that long. If the paint takes more than 15 minutes to be dry to touch it risks getting all kind of trash in it and it means the paint will be soft when it does dry and be susceptible to scratching.

your right, I can touch it in about 10-15 minutes but I meant couple days for it to be completely cured to assemble. Paint stays soft for awhile. 

It maybe sooner, I just usually wait 2 days to be safe. 

That's just me though. 

No harm in being safe, but when you mix in the hardener you only have a certain amount of time before it gets rock hard, even if ts in a sealed can, and when I say rock hard, believe it. The hardener not only makes the paint durable, but it also gives it a great long lasting shine that doesn't allow the paint or gloss to fade easily.

[pfrederi 17,233]

Great info here...but coming out of the factory our horses paint jobs were not "show" quality.

[Brian01 481]

Key word : factory, aka fast paced work, on down the line, spray and push out the door.

After all, they are tractors, meant to be abused, scratched, dented, and worked!

Edited November 14, 2015 by Brian01
Incomplete

[tractorhogg 611]

Key word : factory, aka fast paced work, on down the line, spray and push out the door.

After all, they are tractors, meant to be abused, scratched, dented, and worked!

I can tell you that I have not found one tractor of any brand without a run on it somewhere. That said many of these tractor were shot with paint containing lead. If you have never used a lead based paint before, then all I can say is, lead based paint is like the difference between having a glass of milk and a glass of Everclear 190 proof alcohol. Many others used an epoxy powder coat, basically they were using a paint many times stronger than what is available today. This paint was not like car paint either, it was thicker stronger and was usually shot with no primer

[tractorhogg 611]

Pictures of a IH factory shooting red paint on bare metal Farmall Cubs. The water fall removes over spray still a respirator would still be best

Edited November 14, 2015 by tractorhogg

[tractorhogg 611]

If you don't know a lot about spraying paint or even if you do, you have to realize that paint was different in the days before the EPA. This photos speaks volumes. The man is standing nearly 6 feet from the work pulling the trigger and coating a bare metal tractor with a thick durable lead based paint. On the other side of the tractor stands a man with no respirator. In order to get paint to go that far and still be liquid you need high volume of paint pushed by a high CFM capable air compressor, the like of which would be enormous 

Edited November 14, 2015 by tractorhogg

[quahog 14]

Great bit of  history  and  photos.   Being  a  one profession  type in   the  Auto  Body  trade   since  age  of  16   I  still like   the  older history .  The   recent  threads are   interesting .  My 845   sat  out  in  New  England  weather   for  50  years   so  needed  a   fresh  look .  I  will  rub  some   grit  on  the  paint  and  age  it  a  bit .  Quahog

[tractorhogg 611]

Great bit of  history  and  photos.   Being  a  one profession  type in   the  Auto  Body  trade   since  age  of  16   I  still like   the  older history .  The   recent  threads are   interesting .  My 845   sat  out  in  New  England  weather   for  50  years   so  needed  a   fresh  look .  I  will  rub  some   grit  on  the  paint  and  age  it  a  bit .  Quahog

so I bet you love that guy standing there spraying that Allis as it rolls through? Is that how you used to paint cars, lol, I'll bet not

[c-series don 8,136]

This is why I have so many tractors, one with 3 coats of 2 part epoxy primer,3 coats of ppg red paint, 3 coats clear. Then one with single stage paint. Then many with the original patina. It depends on the occasion !!!! 

[Brian01 481]

Gtofani,

Reguarding the plasti-kote paint...I had never really used it until I did with my wheels...covers really good, smooth, and drys pretty fast.  I had all four wheels painted and they were dry to the touch in like 1 hr.

[tractorhogg 611]

Gtofani,

Reguarding the plasti-kote paint...I had never really used it until I did with my wheels...covers really good, smooth, and drys pretty fast.  I had all four wheels painted and they were dry to the touch in like 1 hr.

I think the underlying consideration for many is, what will it look like in a year or two? Did I waste time and money? Why is it Pink?

[Brian01 481]

Long as you keep them wiped down and clean emevery once in awhile they'll look good for many years. My front ones still look like they were freshly painted...I drive and use my RJ everyday.

[pfrederi 17,233]

Long as you keep them wiped down and clean emevery once in awhile they'll look good for many years. My front ones still look like they were freshly painted...I drive and use my RJ everyday.

A nice protective layer of oils and grease from leaks and seeps works to protect the paint also.  I do not have a rust problem on the bottom of any of my WHs, military vehicles or big tractors either

Edited November 16, 2015 by pfrederi

[Brian01 481]

Yes actually I've heard of people wiping baby-oil on there wheels, just for a layer of protection.

[Brian01 481]

I've always wondered what it would look like to give the hood and fenders an antique or retro look by new paint, then sanding parts of it back to the old metal. Like you see people do with furniture and stuff now a days

[Brian01 481]

Tried the theory, kind of, sanded on the front axle nut...may do gas cap that way as well..