wheel Paint

[gtofani 36]

Hi all,
My wheels were white in the front and red in the back, probably painted at some point in their travels.
I have a 1967 Lawn Ranger, I am guessing they were supposed to be white but I like the Almond color I have seen on some tractors.
I have been told that both colors were used.
I went with an all black seat cover so I am guessing the almond wheels would look better than white on it.
Does anyone have a product number for the almond paint or should I just ask for Almond?
I bought a gallon of IH Red at tractor supply for the rest.
thanks
 

[tractorhogg 611]

Hi all,
My wheels were white in the front and red in the back, probably painted at some point in their travels.
I have a 1967 Lawn Ranger, I am guessing they were supposed to be white but I like the Almond color I have seen on some tractors.
I have been told that both colors were used.
I went with an all black seat cover so I am guessing the almond wheels would look better than white on it.
Does anyone have a product number for the almond paint or should I just ask for Almond?
I bought a gallon of IH Red at tractor supply for the rest.
thanks
 

Rustoleum has a light almond, a little lighter than IH creme that's a good match, don't forget the hardener.

[gtofani 36]

So your saying IH cream is a good color to use, and I did buy the hardener also.
I am worried that the paint on the wheels will get messed up putting on the new tires.
Should I put the new tires on first then mask them off to paint the wheels.

[quahog 14]

I  just  redid  my  wheels   and  used  Chrysler   Cool  Vanilla   Its  a  current  offering  so mix  is   avaiable  single   stage from   paint  suppliers.  I  broke  down  the  tires   and  the  Orig   color   was   a   cream  very  similar.  I  added  dust   covers  to  the  front  hub / spindles .They  are    rubber boots  for  table  legs,  a big $ 1.50 investment..  The  body  will  be   sprayed  w/ single   stage  red /  Volvo .  I  plan  to add   some   flattening   agent   to  tone   down  the  in  your  face  red.  Quahog

[tractorhogg 611]

So your saying IH cream is a good color to use, and I did buy the hardener also.
I am worried that the paint on the wheels will get messed up putting on the new tires.
Should I put the new tires on first then mask them off to paint the wheels.

I think the Rustoleum is a closer match to the Wheel Horse almond, The IH is quite a bit darker. If you use the right amount of thinner and hardener most good tire shops will not mess up the paint.

[quahog 14]

Prep  rims  and  add  tires  but  do  NOT  inflate  keeping  them  below  the   bead. I  cut  some manilla folders  into half   circles  and  slid  under  the   trim.  Keeps  overspray  off   your  new   treads .  Clean   rims  well  as  new   rubber  will  contaminate   them  and   create paint  issues.

[Brian01 481]

I used Antique White by Plasti - Kote on my RJ58.....I'll let you be the judge...

[gtofani 36]

Nice, The off white looks cool also.
Makes my decision a little tougher, white, off white and almond.

[tractorhogg 611]

The color looks good Brian! I've never used Plasti-Kote. The only thing I'm not big on is rattle can paint. That said, rattle can is better than nothing, but it also cost more money and is not a good use of time spent, a small 8 oz. touch up gun and real paint is easy, cheap, and long lasting. The reason I do not like the spray cans is it has high levels of Xylene (or other "hot" thinners) used to thin the paint to push out of the can. This also allows the paint to dry quick, but it reduces the paint so much it is brittle, fades really quick (without a clear coat), and may wrinkle other paints. Of course without hardener almost any paint will fade and dull.

[RedRanger 1,468]

Antique White or Linen White is the best match.  Almond is a bit dark/creamy.
The attached picture is Antique White powder coat.  It matched the factory paint on the inside of the rim almost perfectly.

If you install your tires from the backside of the rims, you'll have no scratches on the front of the rims, and if careful, nothing on the backside either.  Any little knick on the backside can then be touched up.
Lube the beads and rims before you mount them.
If mounting by hand, lay a towel or old blanket down to keep from scratching the wheels too.
If you use a good paint hardner, you should also have no issue with nicks.
If you have a professional tire shop mount them, there should also be no scratches.

I don't like painting wheels with tires on because the inside doesn't get sealed up, unless you're going to dismount, paint inside of rim, remount, tape off and then paint the front and back.  Too much work.

Edited November 13, 2015 by RedRanger

[tractorhogg 611]

Yep Red Ranger, it wasn't Rustoleums almond I was thinking about, it was Linen White. The Rustoleum in the Sliver Professional Series can is really good stuff. The paint at TSC hasn't held up well for me, at least not on stuff that I actually use. 

[RedRanger 1,468]

Yep Red Ranger, it wasn't Rustoleums almond I was thinking about, it was Linen White. The Rustoleum in the Sliver Professional Series can is really good stuff. The paint at TSC hasn't held up well for me, at least not on stuff that I actually use. 

The Majic paint at TSC is junk.  If anyone does a Google search on it, they'll find complaint after complaint from poor spray performance, to slow drying, to fading after just 2 or 3 years.  The complaint on their IH red is that it turns Pink over about 3 years.  Now if you're in to that kind of thing, who am I to judge?  Maybe you're painting it for your wife?

I've got my 401 wheels dismounted for a color correction.  PO painted them an Almond color that is too dark.
Was going to order out some nice urethane paint, but by the time I buy materials and spend time blasting them myself and time painting and time fighting cold temperatures now, I can have them powder coated like my 867.

My issue with Rattle Can is durability.  Seems it always scratches easy.
I've got a spare set of rims that I'm going to paint black with a pair of original BFG lugged tires.  Think I'm going to try http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP650-Gloss-Black-Weather/dp/B000CPJLRG  .

 

Edited November 13, 2015 by RedRanger

[RedRanger 1,468]

Hi all,
My wheels were white in the front and red in the back, probably painted at some point in their travels.
I have a 1967 Lawn Ranger, I am guessing they were supposed to be white but I like the Almond color I have seen on some tractors.
I have been told that both colors were used.
I went with an all black seat cover so I am guessing the almond wheels would look better than white on it.
Does anyone have a product number for the almond paint or should I just ask for Almond?
I bought a gallon of IH Red at tractor supply for the rest.
thanks
 

If you haven't opened that TSC paint, take it back.

If you have a CASE/IH dealer near you, go buy their paint or have a local auto supply store mix your paint.  PPG/Dupont/SPI/ or Martin Senour.
Don't use Majic.
I'd rattle can the entire tractor with Rustoleum before I used Majic.  Rustoleum is much better quality.

Edited November 13, 2015 by RedRanger

[gtofani 36]

thanks for the tip on the paint, I have not opened it yet and now I don't plan on opening it.
I will just go to my local auto paint store and pick out a nice red that I like.
 

[tractorhogg 611]

Hi all,
My wheels were white in the front and red in the back, probably painted at some point in their travels.
I have a 1967 Lawn Ranger, I am guessing they were supposed to be white but I like the Almond color I have seen on some tractors.
I have been told that both colors were used.
I went with an all black seat cover so I am guessing the almond wheels would look better than white on it.
Does anyone have a product number for the almond paint or should I just ask for Almond?
I bought a gallon of IH Red at tractor supply for the rest.
thanks
 

If you haven't opened that TSC paint, take it back.

If you have a CASE/IH dealer near, go buy their paint or have a local auto supply store mix your paint.  PPG/Dupont/SPI/ or Martin Senour.
Don't use Majic.
I'd rattle can the entire tractor with Rustoleum before I used Majic.

I agree Ranger, almost any rattle can paint is better than Majic paint, except the Majic spray paint. While on the subject of TSC, NEVER buy the chinese tire tubes from them, they are pure junk and you may not get them installed without them breaking at the seams. Also the Hi-Run tire they also sell, again pure garbage. I buy some hair pins and hardware from them, other than that, the stuff they sell is mostly all garbage. To be fair most stores are not much better. I have a nut/bolt supplier online or use fastenal for clevis pins, big box, or little hardware stores sell mostly junk stuff. Don't get me started on nails and screws.

[RedRanger 1,468]

Hi all,
My wheels were white in the front and red in the back, probably painted at some point in their travels.
I have a 1967 Lawn Ranger, I am guessing they were supposed to be white but I like the Almond color I have seen on some tractors.
I have been told that both colors were used.
I went with an all black seat cover so I am guessing the almond wheels would look better than white on it.
Does anyone have a product number for the almond paint or should I just ask for Almond?
I bought a gallon of IH Red at tractor supply for the rest.
thanks
 

If you haven't opened that TSC paint, take it back.

If you have a CASE/IH dealer near, go buy their paint or have a local auto supply store mix your paint.  PPG/Dupont/SPI/ or Martin Senour.
Don't use Majic.
I'd rattle can the entire tractor with Rustoleum before I used Majic.

I agree Ranger, almost any rattle can paint is better than Majic paint, except the Majic spray paint. While on the subject of TSC, NEVER buy the chinese tire tubes from them, they are pure junk and you may not get them installed without them breaking at the seams. Also the Hi-Run tire they also sell, again pure garbage. I buy some hair pins and hardware from them, other than that, the stuff they sell is mostly all garbage. To be fair most stores are not much better. I have a nut/bolt supplier online or use fastenal for clevis pins, big box, or little hardware stores sell mostly junk stuff. Don't get me started on nails and screws.

I bought some link pins and hardware from TSC a year ago for one of my tractors.  It sits in the garage 99% of the time.  After one year, the anodized pins and hardware are all corroded.  Junk finish.
I agree, their stuff is going to hell.

[RedRanger 1,468]

thanks for the tip on the paint, I have not opened it yet and now I don't plan on opening it.
I will just go to my local auto paint store and pick out a nice red that I like.
 

As you know, Case IH red is the nearest color match.  It is the color you see on the new IH combines.
IH does have a few different shades though.  They had a 2150 IH Red from 1969-1981 as well as a MS 3 Case IH/IH Gloss Red 1961-present.
The Case IH/IH MS 3 Gloss Red is dated 1961-Current models and matches closest to WH that I've found.  It was also the current IH color when our tractors were made and the Ponds have stated that they tried to copy the IH red as close as possible for the WH.  My 867above is original paint and once buffed out also matches this IH color.

It is what I'll be using on my Lawn Ranger as well as my 401.
Case IH part number is B17562 for a gallon of color.  I'm leaning toward having a local shop mix the color for me.

[Brian01 481]

The color looks good Brian! I've never used Plasti-Kote. The only thing I'm not big on is rattle can paint. That said, rattle can is better than nothing, but it also cost more money and is not a good use of time spent, a small 8 oz. touch up gun and real paint is easy, cheap, and long lasting. The reason I do not like the spray cans is it has high levels of Xylene (or other "hot" thinners) used to thin the paint to push out of the can. This also allows the paint to dry quick, but it reduces the paint so much it is brittle, fades really quick (without a clear coat), and may wrinkle other paints. Of course without hardener almost any paint will fade and dull.

the we le RJ was done is rattle cans, int'l harvester red and plasti kote antique white..

Not show material but good enough for me 

[gtofani 36]

thanks again,I am returning the tractor supply paint and heading to the local auto paint store to get a gallon of the B 17562 with hardener, hope its a one stage and not a base/clear process.

[RedRanger 1,468]

thanks again,I am returning the tractor supply paint and heading to the local auto paint store to get a gallon of the B 17562 with hardener, hope its a one stage and not a base/clear process.

You'll want a single stage Urethane with thinner and activator/hardner.  No clear needed.
You can still have old school enamels mixed, but they're not as durable to scratches, gas,  oil, and fading.
Wear a good respirator.
What are you priming with?

All the quality manufacturers have different pricing lines from budget to high end show quality paints.
Their basic shop value paints should be better than we need.  A good name brand value priced paint will be 10X better than the stuff at TSC.

 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2015 by RedRanger

[gtofani 36]

it will have an epoxy primer on it when I get it back from the media stripping place.
thanks

[RedRanger 1,468]

it will have an epoxy primer on it when I get it back from the media stripping place.
thanks

Perfect.

[TDF5G 2,054]

I've not repainted a WH yet.  I'd like to restore one some day.  But I have done a few automotive projects over the years and I used to use a 2 part epoxy primer on frames, wheels, trailers and such.  What do you guys use for primer and or sealer?    Do you have different process for painting the sheet metal as opposed to the frame and mechanical parts?

IMO single stage urethane is the way to go for top coat, with a HVLP sprayer.  You can rub it out to the gloss you want.  It seems very durable too.

Edited November 13, 2015 by TDF5G

[RedRanger 1,468]

Not really any different from what you're used to.

Personal preference and budget I guess.  I've seen some nice work here with spray cans and brushes.  I've also seen some show tractors with automotive two stage and gloss a mile thick.
For me, on tractors, I like the look of a single stage paint.  Unless it's for show, clear coats are over the top.

I also like the look of keeping it original.  They're only that way once.
With a nice original patina, I'd clean it and leave it alone.
I've got two I'm repainting now, but both were painted by prior owners, so whatever I do will be an improvement for them.
One of mine has original paint and it will stay that way.

[Brian01 481]

If mine hadn't already had a primered hood and seat n fenders hadn't been painted white, with what looked to be a paintbrush!! I wouldn't have painted my RJ