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Russ VS

Removing stuck wheel hubs

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Russ VS

I have a 653 have been soaking the rear wheel hubs with penetrating oil for 6 months still seem to be froze on the axles. A puller won't budge them,was thinking of heating them looking for suggestions.

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DennisThornton

I just grabbed the tire and pulled mine off!  Hub and all!  Seems if the seal has been leaking for a long time it's easy!  

Sorry, I'm serious but I'm sure you are too!  The tractor I just bought did just what I said but I'm sure yours is a "Bixxx"!  Certainly some PB Blaster or similar will help but you might need a HD puller!  There are examples of even custom made pullers that you could search for here, but most likely someone who has done it will be along shortly.

Heat certainly helps!  Some smart raps with a large hammer on the side and a block of steel acting like an anvil on the opposite side does as well.  Also helps the solvent to penetrate!  Some have resorted to more extreme methods that sacrificed the hub but don't go there just yet!

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KC9KAS

@Russ VS do you have an old (spare) hub?
You can make a puller out of an old hub using the 5 bolt holes and use a threaded rod for pushing on the axle.
You will have more of an equal pull using the 5 bolt design.
Someone on Red Square had some photos of this set-up...Maybe they will pust it again, otherwise, do a search on here for hub puller

Edited by KC9KAS
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squonk

Russ, what kind of puller are you using? Marbletown, is that the one near Newark? if so, maybe we can get together and we can try my puller.post-2380-0-24977300-1414874884_thumb.th

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mikekot3

Try heating the area of the hub with a MAPP gas torch on the back side and use candle wax to wick between the hub and the axle. It may take a few times and applying pressure with a pressure puller and bearing separator to remove the hub.

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Russ VS

Russ, what kind of puller are you using? Marbletown, is that the one near Newark? if so, maybe we can get together and we can try my puller.post-2380-0-24977300-1414874884_thumb.th

Try heating the area of the hub with a MAPP gas torch on the back side and use candle wax to wick between the hub and the axle. It may take a few times and applying pressure with a pressure puller and bearing separator to remove the hub.

Russ, what kind of puller are you using? Marbletown, is that the one near Newark? if so, maybe we can get together and we can try my puller.post-2380-0-24977300-1414874884_thumb.th

 

Russ, what kind of puller are you using? Marbletown, is that the one near Newark? if so, maybe we can get together and we can try my puller.post-2380-0-24977300-1414874884_thumb.th

 

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Russ VS

No I'm down in the Catskills exit 19 on the thruway, been up to the other Marbletown many times. Became friends with Gary and Michele VerStraete he's the Chief of FD there.How thick is the steel on the puller and bolt size might just have to make one.

Try heating the area of the hub with a MAPP gas torch on the back side and use candle wax to wick between the hub and the axle. It may take a few times and applying pressure with a pressure puller and bearing separator to remove the hub.

Thanks Mike will give it a try

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mikekot3

Snap on and OTC make nice wheel hub pullers also.

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Shynon

I made mine out of 1/2"

 

IMG_5624.JPG

IMG_5625.JPG

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"D"- Man

I tried the reverse hub method; but, it didn't work on a D-180 with the turning brake disc.  See pics. of stress crack in flange.  So... I have re-engineered my design to alleviate this via shifting the contact surface area {of the pullers inner plates} to the inner hub surface area as close to the axle as permissible, and the circumferential hex bolts outside of the hub.  No pics, as I have yet to remove any hubs with this puller design, since I am still waiting on some of the hardware to finish it.

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Coadster32

If you're puller is going to use the threads of the hub that is stuck on the axle....I'd suggest using longer bolts backed up with washers and nuts from the back side as well. Some of these pics have them. It will take a lot of the stress off the threads in the hub, and help alleviate stretching or stripping the threads in the hub. Heat is a big help as well. Be cautious about it though. You will need a good amount, but too much is bad for other things as well..

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mikekot3

Here is a OTC push puller and bearing separator tool kit. You can purchase it from places like tooltopia or thetoolwarehouse.net
 

OTC 4526 push puller and bearing separator.jpg

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Gary L.
 I use the reverse hub method with 3/8 x 3 1/2" bolts through with 3  1/2" nuts tightened in between the hubs making a more solid and even connection. the puller is a 3/4" x 5"  grade 8 fine thread bolt with a nut in between the hubs with a combination wrench on that hits against the floor. I used a cardboard tube that a 3/4" drill bit comes in to keep the bolt centered in the hole..(1"  hub)DSC05679.thumb.JPG.fee9dc85c56b4bfc6b695

DSC05681.JPG

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WNYPCRepair

Looks like it was made for the job.
 

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953 nut
:twocents-02cents:    Considering how hard the turning brake hub is to find I'm glad the puller is the only thing that failed. Check with rental stores to see if you can rent a hydraulic puller and a bearing separator like the one Mike posted. The proper tools will save a lot of agony.
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Wishin4a416

I too use the spare/junk hub method and an air gun.

IMG_1775.JPG

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can whlvr

so this is my homemade puller,it failed me on my newest tractor,c160 8 speed,it bent the 3/4 bolt,ya I had a 6 foot bar on it but it has removed many hubs before,just not the last one,something was gonna break

004-10.jpg

Edited by can whlvr

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Andy V
On 11/10/2015 at 9:31 PM, Russ VS said:

I have a 653 have been soaking the rear wheel hubs with penetrating oil for 6 months still seem to be froze on the axles. A puller won't budge them,was thinking of heating them looking for suggestions.

I had the same problem when trying to have my tires changed on my D-160. I tried heat and every penetrating lubricant I had. That was when I thought to use my jack ( cylinder car or truck jack ), in a horizontal position. I used some wood blocks to position the jack, placed one end against the the hub I wanted off and used the opposing hub as a solid ground. It was so easy, I wished I had thought of it sooner.

Edited by Andy V
I said (Axle) instead of (Hub).

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Mickwhitt

I had a similar problem. The hubs on Fred had been used with the grub screw loose.

The key had worn out the hub and a previous owner filled the gap with epoxy, effectively glueing the hubs to the shafts.

IMGP2826.JPG.2df73e1499cb819af154c70d80853f32.JPGA bit of heat and poking out the softened epoxy metal revealed the scale of the damage.

I had to bore out the hubs and make new steel sleeves with key way to fit the axle shaft.

IMGP2828.JPG.042b3cd93816ce7e532096d242ceca19.JPGQuite a repair as I could not get hold of any hubs. But they work well and will last me out .

Mick 

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Rod Addicott

I used a 3 leg puller after i soaked it for a day, then used a impact wrench which helped it absorb the pb blaster and it came right off!!

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953 nut
1 hour ago, Rod Addicott said:

I used a 3 leg puller after i soaked it for a day, then used a impact wrench which helped it absorb the pb blaster and it came right off!!

You got lucky,   go buy a lottery ticket while the luck is on your side.

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