JackC 616 #1 Posted October 30, 2015 Does anyone know where to get gaskets for the Sundstrand Pump?I have a 1978 D-200 Pump that I may disassemble to replace the worn splined shaft with a good shaft from another pump. Need; 83-3850 Pump Gasket (Formerly 200223)If no longer available I assume one could be made.How about the pump shaft seal part number 7877?Thanks,Jack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,524 #2 Posted October 31, 2015 From my notes7877 = CR 7475Federal Mogul 480821 = CR 7474Original seal 9008000-7501 = CR 7443CR is Chicago Rawhide and now SKF.Someone used the Federal Mogul seal aboveThe original number was posted by someone from the original in the pump.CR numbers are close to the seal shaft size but slight differences generate another part number. Shaft size is .750"Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 616 #4 Posted October 31, 2015 Is anyone familiar with the service bulletin that recommended the use of Locktite 680?I believe the Locktite 680 was intended to prevent any minuscule movement between the splined shaft and the splined coupling that could eventually become excessive wear and movement.The 680 acts like a glue or epoxy to prevent any movement and subsequent wear of the shaft splines and coupling groves. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,171 #5 Posted October 31, 2015 For the gasket get some thin gasket material a small hammer and a scalpel/exatco knife..(.015-.018 thickness. I used the Loctite stuff last time..can't say if it will help in the long run but guess it can't hurttTSB 305 is available here...http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/629-wh61-90-305-failed-driven-coupling-18hp-auto-d-seriespdf/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 616 #6 Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) Great. Thanks.I have a spare pump that is the exact same pump 90-1173 from a C Series. It has a perfect center shaft with perfect splines on the end.Do you know of the center shaft of the pump can be replaced without replacing the front seal? If that were the case I can replace the center shaft and only need to make a new gasket as you describe. The seal is available so maybe it should be replaced any way? The tractor has less than 400 hours on it so I assume all the pump internals would be good and clean. Not sure about the internals of the spare pump. Edited October 31, 2015 by JackC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,171 #7 Posted October 31, 2015 CR7475 (.75 Shaft size 1.312 Bore .25 thick) is $10.80 from the place I get seals. Given the joy of removing a D series pump there is no way I would reuse a seal that might then leak and require a redo.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #9 Posted October 31, 2015 CR7475 (.75 Shaft size 1.312 Bore .25 thick) is $10.80 from the place I get seals. Given the joy of removing a D series pump there is no way I would reuse a seal that might then leak and require a redo.... Paul and I know a little too much about this subject... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 616 #10 Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) Well I did some work on the D-200 worn spline problem today and I believe I ran into some good luck.The splines on the output shaft of the pump look good enough to use.I do not have to do anything to the pump which was a big relief.The PO cobbled it up by trying to use set screws and some damage was done to the splines.He had a shop of some kind do it for him.However, there are plenty of good splines left to use.The real problem is the metal coupler that attaches to the engine.The splines in it are totally shot.Luckily I found a good replacement.I now need to find some Locktite 680 to secure the metal coupler to the output shaft of the pump per the service bulletin.Advance Auto does not carry it so I may need to order it from NAPA or eBay.I will also get the cleaner and conditioner they recommend to maximize the benefit of using it.After that it will be a matter of re-assembly, careful alignment of the motor and pump and letting it cure before I fire up that big Kohler twin and spin that pump with all 20 horses sucking gasoline. Actually 19.9 but it looks like it puts out a lot more than that.Can't wait. Here are a few pics of the output shaft and the worn coupler. Edited October 31, 2015 by JackC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,171 #11 Posted November 1, 2015 Hope it works out for you but there are a lot of missing splines on that pump shaft. Not a whole lot left to transfer 20 hp.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 616 #12 Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) Hope it works out for you but there are a lot of missing splines on that pump shaft. Not a whole lot left to transfer 20 hp.... I will give it a try. It feels like it should work. I will be using the Loctite 680 and the primer that goes with it. Apparently that acts like an epoxy to bond the metal part of the coupling to the splined shaft of the pump. I will be careful to try to align the motor and the pump to make it last. I will get parts ready to repair or replace the pump if it does not hold. I have an extra coupling also.LOCTITE® 680 Retaining Compound:Gives best resistance to dynamic, axial and radial loads. Recommended for retaining shafts, gears, pulleys, and similar cylindrical parts.RetainersLoctite Corporation, the pioneer of anaerobic adhesives, has applied this technology to create retaining compounds that increase the shear strength of cylindrical, non-threaded assemblies. Finding wide acceptance as a standard method for assembling press and slip-fitted parts, Loctite® Retaining Compounds fill the "inner space" between components and cure to form a strong precision assembly. Formulated in a selection of viscosities, gap filling ability, flexibility and strength characteristics, Loctite® Retaining Compounds can be applied with automatic process equipment or dispensed manually.Loctite® 680 High Strength/High Viscosity Retaining CompoundA retaining compound for joining fitted cylindrical parts. Fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi on steel after 24 hours. Fills diameter gap distances up to 0.015". Recommended Primer: 7471 (T). NSF/ANSI 61 approved Typical Use: High strength for slip fitted parts Edited November 6, 2015 by JackC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sea-Duck51 55 #13 Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) Have you thought about drilling through the coupler and shaft and inserting a roll pin?,that might give it some extra strength and keep it from trying to spin and destroy the remaining splines IMHO. Edited November 6, 2015 by Sea-Duck51 edit text Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 616 #14 Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) Have you thought about drilling through the coupler and shaft and inserting a roll pin?,that might give it some extra strength and keep it from trying to spin and destroy the remaining splines IMHO. Yes. That is what I was originally going to do and I may do that next if the repair does not hold up. The shaft of the pump is hardened so it will take a special drill to go through it.When the joint failed the splines on the hardened pump shaft were OK, If the PO had just replaced the worn flange of the coupler and aligned things properly it may have worked. The PO damaged the splines by drilling into the pump shaft and trying to use set screws. The Loctite 680 is similar to an epoxy to join the flange to the pump shaft. If it does not hold up I will likely drill through the pump shaft. I also have a two spare Sundstrand pumps off C Series tractors. One spare is the exact same model. Edited November 6, 2015 by JackC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
