Venting the side cover belt gaurd and tire fluid.

[DougC 2,643]

In cleats, my  winter team,  he mentioned filling his rear tires with washer fluid and I also noticed his vent holes in the drive belt cover.  I would assume a metal hole saw with cover removed and some red paint would take care of that to help cool the inside head but the tire fluid I would be interested in getting advice and filling info  on. I didnt want to off topic his winter team and have him come all the way from Canada to southern Iowa just to give me a black eye...... 

[C-101plowerpower 1,606]

here you go
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/38496-filling-tires/

[DougC 2,643]

Thanks for the link. Very interesting. I see 1 member just removed the wheel drained the air and set it at an angle and used a funnel to fill  as much as it would hold then pressurized to I assume 12psi with air. What do you guys think about doing it that way. Im a cheap old man remember.......

[rokon 64]

Thanks for the link. Very interesting. I see 1 member just removed the wheel drained the air and set it at an angle and used a funnel to fill  as much as it would hold then pressurized to I assume 12psi with air. What do you guys think about doing it that way. Im a cheap old man remember.......

I have an idea I have not tried yet but I think will work. remove the valve core from the stem, take a length of vacuum line, the diameter being a snug fit over the end of the valve. push one end of the vacuum line over the valve stem and hook the other end to a manifold vacuum port on the engine of a car/truck. Start the engine and wait til the tire stops getting sucked down, then pinch the vacuum line off with vise grips.Take the hose end off the engine and submerge it in a bucket of whatever you are filling the tire with and remove the vice grip from the line. It should suck the fluid into the tire til it is full.

[953 nut 60,013]

Thanks for the link. Very interesting. I see 1 member just removed the wheel drained the air and set it at an angle and used a funnel to fill  as much as it would hold then pressurized to I assume 12psi with air. What do you guys think about doing it that way. Im a cheap old man remember.......

I have an idea I have not tried yet but I think will work. remove the valve core from the stem, take a length of vacuum line, the diameter being a snug fit over the end of the valve. push one end of the vacuum line over the valve stem and hook the other end to a manifold vacuum port on the engine of a car/truck. Start the engine and wait til the tire stops getting sucked down, then pinch the vacuum line off with vise grips.Take the hose end off the engine and submerge it in a bucket of whatever you are filling the tire with and remove the vice grip from the line. It should suck the fluid into the tire til it is full.

Chances are you could not create a good vacuum on a tire that way; if you did it would probably would break the bead and lose vacuum.

[pfrederi 18,670]

Actually you do not want to fill the tire above the valve stem when it is at the top of the wheel../.Screws up your pressure guage if it takes on water/fluid.  There are tables for tractor tires on how many gallons you should put in a given size tire.  The lay it down and tilt theory sounds about right to me.

[sorekiwi 761]

I filled a pair 10 years ago using just a small funnel with a hose that slipped over the valve assembly (and removing the valve stem).  I had to "burp" the tire from time to time, but it only took about 1/2 an hour per tire to add about 7 gallons of washer fluid.

[Fun Engineer 859]

The tire store that loaded RimGuard in my tires broke the bead on the valve stem side. They replaced the rubber valve stem with a metal one then just poured the RimGuard along the edge of the rim. This puts the level of fluid just below the valve stem when the tire is in the upright position. If you go toThe RimGuard site they have a chart you can use.

Good luck with your washer fluid.

Dave Burley

Sent from my tractor seat.

[DougC 2,643]

I filled a pair 10 years ago using just a small funnel with a hose that slipped over the valve assembly (and removing the valve stem).  I had to "burp" the tire from time to time, but it only took about 1/2 an hour per tire to add about 7 gallons of washer fluid.

I will probably give that a try myself sorekiwi....   

[DougC 2,643]

 

 

The tire store that loaded RimGuard in my tires broke the bead on the valve stem side. They replaced the rubber valve stem with a metal one then just poured the RimGuard along the edge of the rim. This puts the level of fluid just below the valve stem when the tire is in the upright position. If you go toThe RimGuard site they have a chart you can use.

Good luck with your washer fluid.

 

 

Dave Burley

Sent from my tractor seat.

 

Thanks Dave. I was thinking thats just what I wanted to try first anyway, the pour it in to just below the valve stem without buying any special tools.and see what happens method.............. At my house you would call it the POOR PEOPLE HAVE POOR WAYS method..... Its a south central Iowa kind of affliction...............

[Fun Engineer 859]

[emoji106]

Dave Burley

Sent from my tractor seat.

[fast88pu 3,370]

I used a 5 gallon spackel bucket with a piece of 1/4" fuel line comming out of it and the valve stem removed. Pour 5 gallons and walk away. Burping it helps. A 27x8.50x 15 took 9 gallons of washer fluid to fill. O and I put the bucket on top of a 4' step ladder too.

[cleat 7,257]

I used plumbing anti-freeze and pump it in using a small submersible sump pump sitting in a pail connected to an air hose from an old bicycle pump.

Put the valve stem at the top with the core out and fill until fluid comes out of valve. Let it drain to set the proper fluid level.

Also be sure to properly jack up tractor so tire is at the normal way it would sit with the standard 12 psi and the weight of the tractor on it.

This adds more weight than standard wheel weights.

My larger tractor added over 500lbs. The Wheel Horses around 120lbs total average (slightly different tire sizes).

Cleat 

[bds1984 1,499]

I have Rimguard in the 23-10.50-12s on my C165 which added 200 pounds to the rear and she really pulls!
On my 520 I filled the 23-8.50-12s with 4.5 gallons of RV antifreeze to add 40 pounds per tire. It took me a little bit to fill the 520 tires because I had to 'burp' them. So far, so good with both tractors.

[bluebug 27]

I live in Georgia and do not need to use my WH 523Dxi for snow.
Would I benefit any by loading my tires.
I only have turf tires and use my WH for mowing and pulling a tiller.
Clark

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

Only if it loses traction while mowing or plowing. 

 

Also, if you mow on hills, filling them partially helps lower your center of gravity

[Fun Engineer 859]

I live in Georgia and do not need to use my WH 523Dxi for snow.
Would I benefit any by loading my tires.
I only have turf tires and use my WH for mowing and pulling a tiller.
Clark

Loaded tires or any additional weight will cause soil compaction resulting in poor turf quality and additional strain on your drive system.  Unless you have hills where you need additional traction or for tilling, I'd stay away from filling your tires and use suitcase weights or wheel weights that can be removed when you don't need them. Or even better, buy some HDAP tires with the multi purpose tread.

Of course if you want more seat time you can buy a pull behind aerator to relive compaction.

[clip 185]

I live in Georgia and do not need to use my WH 523Dxi for snow.
Would I benefit any by loading my tires.
I only have turf tires and use my WH for mowing and pulling a tiller.
Clark

Loaded tires or any additional weight will cause soil compaction resulting in poor turf quality and additional strain on your drive system.  Unless you have hills where you need additional traction or for tilling, I'd stay away from filling your tires and use suitcase weights or wheel weights that can be removed when you don't need them. Or even better, buy some HDAP tires with the multi purpose tread.

Of course if you want more seat time you can buy a pull behind aerator to relive compaction.

I loaded the Turf Savers on the Cub Cadet by breaking one bead and pouring five gallons in, reseating the bead and with the stem at 12 o'clock, let the excess drain. 

Engineer, I've thought about the compaction as I have a set of loaded tires on the Cadet, a set of ags with wheel weights on the WH, and big weights on the Farmall. I've gone back and forth taking weights off of the WH with no real visible difference after mowing (thought the wheels laying the grass down were reason for uneven cut, but different story). With 5 gallons in each tire on the Cadet, that's an extra 40-50 lbs in each tire. I'm guessing the contact patch of the 20x10 tire is around 9x3. With those figures, it looks like an extra 2psi ground pressure for each tire. Would it really make that much difference if you mixed up mowing routes and were aerating regularly anyway?

[Fun Engineer 859]

Clip

That's how the tire dealer loaded my tires with RimGuard.

Alternating your mowing pattern is the easiest way to help alleviate compaction and yearly or twice a year aerating is beneficial if needed. Much depends on your soil profile. Coring tines relieve compaction better than slicing times but each have their place. I have a very sandy loam soil where I live and need to core aerate every year as it compacts quickly with all the irrigation I put on it.

I maintained ball fields and soccer fields (SE Michigan) most of my career and we had both heavy clay soil fields and one sandy loam. We found in our case, trying to work around field use schedules and turf renovation that the turf did best if we could aerate right after each season and mid fall. Besides relieving compaction so that roots and rhizomes can grow deeper and spread, aerating helps absorb water and nutrients. It also helps control compaction loving plants (WEEDS) such as common knotweed. Hope I didn't stray too far from your question.

Dave Burley

Sent from my tractor seat.