Rob R 951 #1 Posted September 28, 2015 Hi guys need you help, just got a basket case 520H on which multiple "home mechanics" have screwed with and messed up even more and on course put nothing back.... they screwed with the ignition module and have a replacement module (yellow) from KIRK engines "Dual SuperCoil" sitting on top of the removed shroud and it is basically temporary wired in, still have the old coil which in my estimation is probably still good the PO said the tractor ran well but was basically getting harder and harder to start so he had a "mechanic" look at it he did the coil replacement and I guess also attempted the ignition switch replacement (also have new and old). so here is what I did and found so far....\> Engine does not crank (pushed pedal down sat on seat etc) nothing> Took off the blue lead from the starter jump it with 12v engine cranks> Traced the wire back and came upon a nine pin connector (which is toast all corroded and burnt) found the blue wire jumped it back from there to the starter and she cranked from there nothing turning the ignition switch .... also no lights or gages of any kind.So I thinking that the first thing I need to do is replace that connector... do you agree... where can I get one or a better one.... what should be the next steps.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikekot3 92 #2 Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) The connector is a molex available from mc master carr. The terminals are also available from them. You will need a ratcheting crimper from a tool vendor like snap on. Edited September 28, 2015 by mikekot3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bow_Extreme 535 #3 Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) If your not planning on taking the engine out anytime soon, remove the old crappy connector and solder and shrink wrap the connections. Also, the fuse block next to the battery is a huge problem area. I recommend removing the fuse block and soldering and shrink wrapping all the connections to inline sealed fuse terminals. I would also check the connections to the regulator, starter, & coil. Most homeowner bypasses are not checking/caring for the condition of the connector or fuse block. Yes, as stated by mikekot3, the connector is readily available. Might not be a bad idea to to buy a couple cans of CRC Electrical cleaner and pull the connectors from every terminal including safety interlocks and clean them. I also pack these connectors full of CRC Di-Electric grease to keep these problems from ever happening. I know, I go over board but I never have issues again.Here is an example of what I just finished on a 520H: Edited September 28, 2015 by Bow_Extreme 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rokon 64 #4 Posted September 28, 2015 very nicely done, remove any potential causes for high resistance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 951 #5 Posted September 29, 2015 So update on the fix, I did exactly what Bow Extreme suggested and when completed power was immediately restored to the dash panel, ignition module and key switch, the spark at the plug was now there but somewhat weak. I put the engine all back together (which was a pain especially since I didn't tear it apart...... but got it done). I had to suck gas from the tank to prime the vacuum pump and she gave a few coughs like she wanted to start but didn't, also I noticed that it would give a nice spark just as I stopped..... don't know why but I suspected the condenser since it was also all rust out and look older then me.... put on a new condenser and she lite up like the fourth of July.... put the plugs back-in and she started and purred like a kitten..... SO THANK YOU VERY MUCH INDEED!One last problem but I was too tired to fix today when I moved the lever (forward <> reverse) nothing happened except a whirring noise.... I looked for a lever (release for pushing but didn't find it). Is there one???? I also chk'd the tranny fluid level and it was like NON EXISTENT so I'm hoping either I missed the lever or she need Fluid.....My GT14 take tranny fluid. WHAT KIND OF FLUID DOES THIS 520h TAKE...??? Thanks again for all you great support. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bow_Extreme 535 #6 Posted September 30, 2015 520 Hydro takes 10W-30 regular oil, not synthetic. Might want to check your drive belt as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 951 #7 Posted September 30, 2015 Drive belt good gotta be low oil............ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 951 #8 Posted October 2, 2015 Okay so I got her rolling a driving but I am going to drain the old tranny fluid and change the filter. What filter can I use (NAPA?) and can I use Hydrostatic fluid from Tractor Supply? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #9 Posted October 2, 2015 Okay so I got her rolling a driving but I am going to drain the old tranny fluid and change the filter. What filter can I use (NAPA?) and can I use Hydrostatic fluid from Tractor Supply? Thanks You can use oil or hydraulic fluid from TSC, but see what is in it now, they don't mix, so if you have oil, replace it with oil, if you have hydraulic fluid, use that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,513 #10 Posted October 2, 2015 Napa 1410 is a hydraulic filter made by Wix.Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
