elliot ness 1,916 #1 Posted August 20, 2015 Making a fully hydraulic snow/dirt blade for my C-195, got the ram mounted on the blade and the frame work, just need to plum it into the second port of the controls. would post pics, but I guess I'am maxed out on pic space? should get the plumbing finished tomorrow. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,826 #2 Posted August 20, 2015 (edited) I will selfishly advocate that you Become a supporter so I can see pics!!!!!!! As a fellow Super C owner:-) Edited August 20, 2015 by Aldon 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,848 #3 Posted August 20, 2015 Becoming a supporter will solve the pic space problem. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #4 Posted August 20, 2015 http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #5 Posted August 20, 2015 Sounds like a great project. After destroying a few WH blades I bought an old gravely plow blade. Cut it down to a reasonable height and never looked back. Welded tabs to it and used a WH frame, pivot, and springs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #6 Posted August 21, 2015 Finished the blade late last night. It works great, If you would like pics. email me @ larryandrosekness@gmail.com going to do the same for my C 160 tractor and other blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #7 Posted August 21, 2015 I have attached the pictures I was emailed. Looks good! Can you get a video of it operating? We can upload it to a free youtube account and link it here. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #8 Posted August 21, 2015 This blade moves very fast from side to side, going to try Saturday to make a youtube of it in action. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #9 Posted August 22, 2015 Great modification!(sent from Boo's Spine and what's left of his discs). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #10 Posted August 22, 2015 When I take the blade off, I can use the short 2 control lines for a 3-point that I am making. [snap-couplings under the left foot rest] Just move lines to the rear and presto, 3-point. When I take the blade off, I can use the short 2 control lines for a 3-point that I am making. [snap-couplings under the left foot rest] Just move lines to the rear and presto, 3-point. The more you know, well the more you know. Books are the answer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #11 Posted August 22, 2015 Pictures! Pictures of the 3 point in progress please! Did I mention to take lots of pictures?Nice job on the hydro blade! I'm pretty new to hydros and not sure where you tapped into the system to get power. Are there plugs waiting to be used?Just noticed you used 5800 psi hoses! Doubt you will blow them! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #12 Posted August 22, 2015 Pictures! Pictures of the 3 point in progress please! Did I mention to take lots of pictures?Nice job on the hydro blade! I'm pretty new to hydros and not sure where you tapped into the system to get power. Are there plugs waiting to be used?Just noticed you used 5800 psi hoses! Doubt you will blow them! Yes on the C-195 there are two extra ports, and any other c-series with hydraulics can be taped into, just find the high pressure side and tap into it with a complete loop. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #13 Posted August 22, 2015 I have a C-160 so I'll have to look!Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #14 Posted August 22, 2015 Great idea, and great job! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alswagg 128 #15 Posted August 22, 2015 What size ram did you use? Going to and powe angle to front and belly blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #16 Posted August 23, 2015 What size ram did you use? Going to and powe angle to front and belly blade. The ram came off of a c125 deck lift that I use for parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Row Cropper 50 #17 Posted December 20, 2015 When the trip springs are activated won't that damage the cylinder ram or it's mounting to the blade? Or, are you going to lock the trip action some way to eliminate that problem? Nice job with the modification but just noticed this potential problem. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fireman 1,021 #18 Posted December 20, 2015 I just saw this thread and noticed that too. You need swivels eyes like the 3 point hitched use either welded to the ends of the piston or as the mounts. That a super easy fix. I've said it all along that the ponds should have had live hydraulics on all of the bigger "C" and "D" series tractors like the John Deeres do. Nice job on your modification! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #19 Posted December 20, 2015 12 hours ago, Row Cropper said: When the trip springs are activated won't that damage the cylinder ram or it's mounting to the blade? Or, are you going to lock the trip action some way to eliminate that problem? Nice job with the modification but just noticed this potential problem. Thanks for the heads up, I never thought about it, I think I shall put a swivel joint on it. Always good to have more eyes look at a project. Thanks again 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,848 #20 Posted December 20, 2015 You will need a spherical ball mount at each end of the cylinder as the blade end of the cylinder will have vertical movement unless you can get the blade end swivel on the exact pivot plane as the blade. I'm guessing you would probably need to move the cyl forward and down below the frame to find this point. Just remove the springs and trip the blade by hand to find the best location and to test the new spherical joint. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Row Cropper 50 #21 Posted December 20, 2015 I was looking at my plow earlier today and decided the way to eliminate this problem would be to attach the cylinder to the yoke which only moves on one plane. That could be accomplished by welding a tab somewhere onto the pivoting yoke and it most likely will require moving the current anchor point from where he has the "dead" end.currently located. That would completely take the trip action of the blade out of the equation and possibly would take some of the stress off of the hydraulic ram. Just a thought! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaulC 341 #22 Posted December 21, 2015 I like it! I love these type of mods! With the hydraulic cylinder I bet it moves real fast. I just recently added an electric actuator to mine. It's nice but it's pretty slow. The way I mounted mine eliminates your issue but I think your cylinder is to big. Here is a link to my thread in case u want to check it out. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/60463-pimped-my-plow/#comment-558748 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #23 Posted December 21, 2015 My thought was to use the current rod. Mount one end of the cylinder to the current mount for the handle, or thereabouts, and cut the rod, bend it 90 degrees at the end, say an inch and a half or so, drill it for an R clip, put it through the other end of the cylinder with a washer and the R clip. Remove the blade lock, and the cylinder pushes and pulls the rod, just like the handle. You can move the rod to the top of the frame if you need more ground clearance, there is a matching hole in the top the rod will fit in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,848 #24 Posted December 21, 2015 I gotta vote for Pauls design. It does eliminate all the mounting problems of the blade tripping. Brians idea of mounting on the existing rod also eliminates the blade tripping problem, but the existing blade angle rod and the cylinder rod would have to be rigidly fastened together so they could not bend at the connection. Even if they were fixed together rigidly as one rod, I suspect the 1/2" rod would eventually bend under the pressure from the blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #25 Posted December 21, 2015 8 minutes ago, ekennell said: I gotta vote for Pauls design. It does eliminate all the mounting problems of the blade tripping. Brians idea of mounting on the existing rod also eliminates the blade tripping problem, but the existing blade angle rod and the cylinder rod would have to be rigidly fastened together so they could not bend at the connection. Even if they were fixed together rigidly as one rod, I suspect the 1/2" rod would eventually bend under the pressure from the blade. You could always replace it with a harder rod, and it will be shorter, so it should be harder to bend, though I did wonder if it was strong enough to handle the increased pressure from the lock being removed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites