p38js 401 #1 Posted August 18, 2015 I have a c160 auto that is not charging. What kind of voltage should i be seeing from the battery terminal. and what should i be seeing from the the alternator side of things at the rectifier? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #2 Posted August 18, 2015 battery voltageapprox 12.6v with engine off13.8 to 14.5v with engine running full throttlealternator28 to 50 volts AC with engine at full throttle 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #3 Posted August 19, 2015 AC volts are measured directly across the two AC terminals on the regulator assy. No need to remove the connector from the regulator to make this measurement Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
p38js 401 #4 Posted August 20, 2015 Thank you for the replies found the problem wire coming from battery terminal on rectifier was broken in the crimp. Put new terminal end on and we are charging again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darkitec 4 #6 Posted May 27, 2019 (edited) Similar issue, again, I may have a wiring issue the plug was melted to a puddle and unusable What is the correct wiring for the stator vs battery connection. I'm getting voltage all over the place 1, 6, 3, 9, 12 0, 4, 6, 2, and so forth. L shape connection rectifier from a c160. Edited May 27, 2019 by Darkitec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darkitec 4 #7 Posted May 27, 2019 (edited) Using the tests I could find the stator is putting out 32 volts ac, occasionally dropping to 6 to 7 volts and then returning to 32 volts. Resistance is .3 ohm. just a bit higher than the .1 to .2 ohm recommended. Is this fixable or is it new Stator time?? Edited May 27, 2019 by Darkitec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #8 Posted May 27, 2019 For any signs of overheating the wire connections are not tight causing resistance = heat. They could be physically loose or a layer of rust is all it takes. After cleaning the terminals and tightening the connection or replacing the terminals fill the connector with dielectric grease and that will keep future corrosion a bay. This product does not conduct electricity so no problem with close terminals. The C-160 used a 15 amp charging system. The terminals are usually identified on the regulator. If not the illustrations below show them. I believe the Raider 12 used a 10 amp charging system so that regulator can not be used. I would go with the stator as is. The body of the regulator requires a good ground at it's mounting bolts. On these older tractors many of us add a ground wire to a known good ground just be sure. When you have everything ready to go one last check. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position with the engine not running. Check the voltage across the battery posts and record it. Move the red test lead to the DC+ terminal on the regulator. You should have the same voltage as was at the battery. If not fix it. The path the charge current takes to get to the battery is compromised. Turn the key OFF. Garry Erratic voltage readings are common with a digital meter. They pick up noise from the ignition system. Have an analog meter you can try? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
