Lagersolut 613 #1 Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) So last year I decided to tear this one apart and rebuild, it was starting to smoke, plus it had play/rap between the rod and journal ( in my opinion ) - took it to a machine shop that boasted he did a lot of Kohler's and it was close . long story short I wanted .010 over on the bore - new rod .010 under if needed and valves - when he calls it's done says the rod and valves are OK not needed , polished the crank put everything together with a .010 over on the bore new piston and crank bearing .My issue, I can hear the rap between that rod and crank - know that's where it's coming from because I had it apart - you can hear it just rocking the flywheel - is this normal ? - it's bugging me to no end - I wasn't real familiar with this guy, took it to him after we had a talk and he told me he was doing them for years and he was 10 minutes vs 1 hour from the house .I think I already know the answer to this but I'd like some opinions before I tear it apart AGAIN and end up at the machine shop was familiar with to begin with .The Cliche hindsight is 20/20 keeps ringing in my head on this . Edited August 16, 2015 by Lagersolut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,169 #2 Posted August 16, 2015 Drop the oil pan an plastigauge the rod...then you will know for sure. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 613 #3 Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) Drop the oil pan an plastigauge the rod...then you will know for sure. Got the plastiguage strips today - can you tell me in Laymen s terms what would be a pass or fail ? Also was wondering be it a fail can it be fixed with with simply installing a new standard rod ? or is machine shop work to .010 under a must ? Edited August 16, 2015 by Lagersolut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,154 #4 Posted August 16, 2015 I guess it depends if the rod is worn or the crank is worn but it would be better to turn the crank 10 under and put a new rod in it then you would know its right 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,435 #5 Posted August 17, 2015 Did you install a new rod? Before you install new one check the crank pin for out of round, also if you reused the rod the piston pin hole could be stretched. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,169 #6 Posted August 17, 2015 Drop the oil pan an plastigauge the rod...then you will know for sure. Got the plastiguage strips today - can you tell me in Laymen s terms what would be a pass or fail ? Also was wondering be it a fail can it be fixed with with simply installing a new standard rod ? or is machine shop work to .010 under a must ? I couldn't find a Kohler spec right off but based on some other motors .001 - .003 would be acceptable Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 613 #7 Posted August 17, 2015 I couldn't find a Kohler spec right off but based on some other motors .001 - .003 would be acceptable Thanks - I kinda jumped the gun a little posting/asking that - I found the specs in my stuff .....thanks for the plastiguage suggestion, never even heard of them until your post - read up on them and I'm good pretty cut and dry - I'll start out with the smaller green strip ......I have a funny feeling I'll be on the larger red strips to get a reading .....just a hunch.Thanks....gonna try to get it opened up here in a week or two. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,435 #8 Posted August 19, 2015 Plastiguage will only tell you how much clearance you have, it will not tell you which part is worn out. You need to mic the crank and find out if it is in Kohler specs. If it is all you need is a new rod. If it is not in spec you will need to have the crank turned and buy a new .010 under rod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 613 #9 Posted August 19, 2015 Plastiguage will only tell you how much clearance you have, it will not tell you which part is worn out. You need to mic the crank and find out if it is in Kohler specs. If it is all you need is a new rod. If it is not in spec you will need to have the crank turned and buy a new .010 under rod. Yea I know, I know for a fact there's play in the rod because I'm the one who stripped it down for the machine shop work, thought I was pretty cut and dry with the guy I tried for this work in what I wanted - for now I want to see what I have on the clearance - I know it still knocks like it did from before and I really don't want it flying in a million pieces .I'm limited on tools for engine work, no mic - no spring compressors - no ring compressor etc . maybe it's time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxed500 10 #10 Posted August 25, 2015 instead of buying a new rod, check out Brian Millers website regarding putting an automotive bearing insert into your rod." Bore your rod w/our bearing inserts installed: $42.00 labor w/bearing inserts each, plus return shipping & handling."there are also kohler specs there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #11 Posted August 25, 2015 Millers web site is a treasure trove for information, but dont count on getting anybody to talk to you -- I recently really needed help/parts from there and ... nothing/nada/zip... telephone or email. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #12 Posted August 26, 2015 ive not heard of anyone getting help or anything from millers in some time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,328 #13 Posted August 26, 2015 It has been my experience that if you have any rod slap in a Kohler "K" or "Mag" your gonna need to turn the crank and go to a new rod. For me it's always because the crank was out of round. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
