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Aldon
10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

@Aldon, we have all learned a lot and been eager to see your restomod reach it's completion, now it looks like @p38js is going to have to start sharing his journey so we don't have withdrawal symptoms. :text-coolphotos:   Job well done.

Thanks! 

 

And agreed, @p38js will hopefully help with withdrawal symptoms.

 

I tried to document as much of this build as possible to help anyone who likewise decided to rebuild one of these GT14's. I learned a lot from all the members here but did end up doing a lot of "Site Search" function to do it. There is a ton of experience in the forum members. I could not have managed this without the members and the forum threads.

 

So a shout out to anyone who posts informative information. Sooner or later it helps others out.

 

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19richie66

Abraham and Lazarus..........

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Aldon

So I got it wired and choke and throttle cables installed. Many set backs but I persevered.

 

Fired right up after 2 years dormancy. 

 

Engine runs great.

 

Now the bad news. Hydraulic leak. I half suspected that would occur. Worse news...Hydro has no power. Not sure yet if it's a fluid level issue or something worse...And I am out of time. Not sure if I'll get it resolved before the show. May have to bring a rolling chassis instead of a operational tractor. Very frustrating!!! But par for the course.

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953 nut

:text-imsorry:   Have you been able to determine where the leak is? Will the three point hitch go up? Hope we can come up with a simple fix for you.  

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Aldon
6 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

:text-imsorry:   Have you been able to determine where the leak is? Will the three point hitch go up? Hope we can come up with a simple fix for you.  

It appears without tearing it apart again it may be leaking a bit from the ram or the valve. However the 3 point does operate and will lift me easily. Almost 300 pounds.

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953 nut

:woohoo:      Could be a fitting needs to be tightened or some "O" Rings. You may have not gotten all of the air out of the hydro yet, If the lift works the pump works!

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oldredrider

Tow valve open?

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JPWH

Sorry to hear about your hydraulic problem. I hope you get it figured out.

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Aldon

Olderedider called it. It was the tow valve. Was partially in wrong position. Thanks gents!

 

i missed it as it is buried by three point and the draw bar.

Edited by Aldon
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JPWH

That's good news!

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Aldon

Since I was troubleshooting at dusk, why not get a couple pics with lights....note you can see the dual fuel/voltage gage lit up as well.

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ztnoo

2tu.gif

Aldon,

Looking good.

How's the db level with that gold plated Toro muffler compared with Lazarus???

wavetowel2.gif

Edited by ztnoo
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953 nut
1 hour ago, Aldon said:

tow valve

I didn't mention that because I was sure you would have closed it! I guess the excitement could get to anyone. :text-bravo:

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Aldon
1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

I didn't mention that because I was sure you would have closed it! I guess the excitement could get to anyone. :text-bravo:

I was actually very keyed up as I had just finished the marathon wiring and initial build. Missing the tow valve is a rookie mistake but I feel a little better as it truly is out of site and out of mind with the 3 point hardware blocking it. It was actually a bear to turn it.....

 

@ztnoo , the muffler is noticeably quieter. And the motor is 2 additional HP. Not sure it's worth another 180 over the pepper pots but I would likley but it again if it ever fails and it's available.

 

Truth is my decks are louder than my tractors:-) 

 

i know. Rebuilding decks is next up on project lists.....then sickle bar and then a Rototiller refresh....I need more vacations. Lol

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BigRedGrizzly
On May 21, 2016 at 9:43 PM, Aldon said:

I was actually very keyed up as I had just finished the marathon wiring and initial build. Missing the tow valve is a rookie mistake but I feel a little better as it truly is out of site and out of mind with the 3 point hardware blocking it. It was actually a bear to turn it.....

 

@ztnoo , the muffler is noticeably quieter. And the motor is 2 additional HP. Not sure it's worth another 180 over the pepper pots but I would likley but it again if it ever fails and it's available.

 

Truth is my decks are louder than my tractors:-) 

 

i know. Rebuilding decks is next up on project lists.....then sickle bar and then a Rototiller refresh....I need more vacations. Lol

 

Hi Aldon...I'm in the process of a restoration on my 1970 GT14 and I wanted to use the stainless steel nuts and bolts as you did. In an effort to save time

and frustration I was wondering if you happen to have the quantity and sizing of the hardware you purchased. I was hoping you had a list something. 

Also.. I'm having a really hard time pulling my steering wheel. I didn't notice a roll pin in there. But the whole is filled with crud. Could it be an Allen key? Thanks in advance. 

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Aldon
1 hour ago, BigRedGrizzly said:

 

Hi Aldon...I'm in the process of a restoration on my 1970 GT14 and I wanted to use the stainless steel nuts and bolts as you did. In an effort to save time

and frustration I was wondering if you happen to have the quantity and sizing of the hardware you purchased. I was hoping you had a list something. 

Also.. I'm having a really hard time pulling my steering wheel. I didn't notice a roll pin in there. But the whole is filled with crud. Could it be an Allen key? Thanks in advance. 

 

BRG,

 

Getting the tear down to the point in your pic is a huge accomplishment so it looks like your well on your way to getting yours restored. I utelized Stainless in a few places but mostly I used yellow zinc grade 8 hardware that I bought in bulk at Tractor Supply. I knew that was the plan going in so I did not develop a list. although if I restore my other GT14, I may go the route of Stainless and have a professional do the body and paint. 

 

As for your steeing wheel, I have pulled several. They all had roll pins. That does not necessarily negate possibility of an allen key, but I really would bet against it. An allen key would require the receiving side to be female threaded. I think the odds of this to be low.  Once you get pin out, the wheel may still fight being pulled off. 50 years of crud, rust and corrosion can create a significant bond. Also, I have had instances where the roll pin diameter allowed me to insert a allen wrench and it felt as if it was an allen key as the allen wrench fit just right in the opening of the roll pin and I got some resistive tension. Good lighting and degreaser is a time saver for sure.

 

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Aldon

Some I spoke with at the show seemed surprised that I planned to work this beast when I brought "Elijah" back from PA.

 

At the show I pulled the 3 point lift bar and loaned it to a vendor for a template since I had a spare at home. I DO NOT SUGGEST anyone try the same. It's a bear to get it out. Exponentially more difficult installing it with most of the tractor intact. But I finally managed that and got the temporary 42" deck from Lazarus installed.

 

I am in last stages of restoring both a 48 inch deck and an Ariens/C-195 deck which will be the primary decks for Elijah once finished.

 

Then I'll complete the Tiller and Sickle Bar as well.

 

pic of deck mounted and the resulting cut....

image.jpegimage.jpeg

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ztnoo

2tu.gif

Aldon,

I can clearly see, now that you are hooked (dare I say "addicted"), you will be in need of many more projects in short order.

Are you considering, or taking restoration orders?

S.

:)

 

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Aldon

I don't think anyone would pay me what I think I'm worth. Not to mention there are dozens of guys on this forum who are more skilled.

 

I am however rolling around the idea for my next project tractor in my head. It would take a miracle to get the current projects in the queue already along with a project tractor done by next years show but I may give it a go.....

 

it it will have a lot of GT14 DNA:-)

Edited by Aldon
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ztnoo
13 minutes ago, Aldon said:

it it will have a lot of GT14 DNA:-)

 

Well.....there should be no problem then!

wavetowel2.gif

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Aldon

Starting to tackle the implements.

 

Assembled the 54 inch Dozer blade today.

 

my iPhone is acting up so pardon pic quality.

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ztnoo

I've been worried about you........thought maybe you had gone on vacation like Ferris Bueller....

:ROTF:

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Aldon

Figured it had been too long without an update of some type. I am working on several implements but this update is for the two additional decks I plan to use on Elijah and Lazarus. I currently am using a new old stock 42 inch read discharge which does a good job, but bigger may be better. In search of the perfect deck for my modernized GT14's I am in the process of rebuilding a 48 inch deck with the more modern spindles etc and I snagged a 60 inch Ariens C195 deck from Stevebo which has all new bearings etc. both are basically in the assembly process. You can see from the dust that the C195 deck has been waiting 4-6 weeks for temps to lower to point my motivation returned. I made some headway today.

image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

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PeacemakerJack

Aldon, that is looking great!  I can't wait to see how that all looks once it is complete.  I'm interested to see how that big 60 looks on the GT-14. You do awesome work my friend and I'll be following to the finish!  Zach is too!

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swisstrac

Aldon compliments and kudos on your wonderfull participation and wealth of  constructive  ADVICE// Re steering wheel i am having same  trbl pulling got  the center cap offf then the nut but still no go ND GO did not see a drift pin; perhaps iam  not lookig correctly?  thanks  and all the best  ray

On 6/16/2016 at 8:28 AM, Aldon said:

 

BRG,

 

Getting the tear down to the point in your pic is a huge accomplishment so it looks like your well on your way to getting yours restored. I utelized Stainless in a few places but mostly I used yellow zinc grade 8 hardware that I bought in bulk at Tractor Supply. I knew that was the plan going in so I did not develop a list. although if I restore my other GT14, I may go the route of Stainless and have a professional do the body and paint. 

 

As for your steeing wheel, I have pulled several. They all had roll pins. That does not necessarily negate possibility of an allen key, but I really would bet against it. An allen key would require the receiving side to be female threaded. I think the odds of this to be low.  Once you get pin out, the wheel may still fight being pulled off. 50 years of crud, rust and corrosion can create a significant bond. Also, I have had instances where the roll pin diameter allowed me to insert a allen wrench and it felt as if it was an allen key as the allen wrench fit just right in the opening of the roll pin and I got some resistive tension. Good lighting and degreaser is a time saver for sure.

 

 

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