1975 d 200

[rexman72 210]

I would like to take the carb bowl off and clean the carb.Whats the best way to take it off as there doesn't look like theres any room to get it out.

[pacer 3,160]

I recently got a D-200 that had been sitting for quite a while with the usual fuel related problems - rotten gas, rotten tank, brick hard lines and of course a gummed up carb. You're right, I dont think theres any way to just get the bowl off. I just went ahead to pulling the carb off, figuring it was gonna need some up close and personal attention. Sure enough the bowl had had water in it (probably from that crappy ethanol fuel) and had corroded it bad enough to have holes.  Took it all apart and blew and cleaned everything up nicely with a new bowl and with new gas lines and fresh gas it fired right up --yea!

So go ahead and pull it and give it a good cleaning....

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

I'm no help here except for the manuals for the Kohler K532S-53105A engine used in the 1975 D-200 Auto model 1-0631

Kohler parts list
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/16-engine-kohler-k482-k532-ipl-tp-2419pdf/

Kohler service manual
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/15-engine-kohler-k482-k532-k582-k662-sm-ens-607pdf/

Tractor operator manual
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3351-tractor-1975-d-series-auto-om-wiringpdf/

Tractor parts list
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2046-tractor-1975-d-series-auto-iplpdf/

Garry

Edited June 25, 2015 by gwest_ca

[rexman72 210]

I recently got a D-200 that had been sitting for quite a while with the usual fuel related problems - rotten gas, rotten tank, brick hard lines and of course a gummed up carb. You're right, I dont think theres any way to just get the bowl off. I just went ahead to pulling the carb off, figuring it was gonna need some up close and personal attention. Sure enough the bowl had had water in it (probably from that crappy ethanol fuel) and had corroded it bad enough to have holes.  Took it all apart and blew and cleaned everything up nicely with a new bowl and with new gas lines and fresh gas it fired right up --yea!

So go ahead and pull it and give it a good cleaning....

Yes mine has been sitting also so i am going to do the same thing you did.

[rexman72 210]

I'm no help here except for the manuals for the Kohler K532S-53105A engine used in the 1975 D-200 Auto model 1-0631

Kohler parts list
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/16-engine-kohler-k482-k532-ipl-tp-2419pdf/

Kohler service manual
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/15-engine-kohler-k482-k532-k582-k662-sm-ens-607pdf/

Tractor operator manual
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3351-tractor-1975-d-series-auto-om-wiringpdf/

Tractor parts list
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2046-tractor-1975-d-series-auto-iplpdf/

Garry

Garry you are a huge huge help

[rexman72 210]

does this pump look hooked up correctly?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

If that hose in the bottom of the photo is the vacuum line going to the carb it appears to be slightly flattened about 1-1/2" from the pump. Under vacuum that could kink even more completely closing off that hose. There is a special hose type for vacuum lines and it usually just has thicker rubber so it is harder to bend.

Garry

[rexman72 210]

ok thanks garry i will get a thicker line for the vacuum line

Edited June 25, 2015 by rexman72

[pacer 3,160]

Yes, that pump looks correct, and what Garry says is correct (as usual)

But ..... On my long owned D-180 I was consistently having hard starting problems, and after some frustrating times I finally added an electric pump and that immediately cured it. Now, to further elaborate on the D-200 episode -- after the carb cleaning I rigged a gravity flow fuel supply (my tank was terrible) and as I said it started right up. I had found a non-functioning electric pump back near the tank and discarded all that mess, With a new/used tank, I started running all new line and ran it through the pump on the engine to see if it might work - no luck. So after my 180's problems, I immediately added an electric - problem cured!

Seems like - long ago? - I read/heard the vacuum pump wasnt reliable? not sure of that, but I did have my problems (I have a 18 auto that runs fine on the original pump - so far!)

[rexman72 210]

well the previous owner cleaned the tank and ran all new fuel lines and installed a new fuel filter so half the battle is already taken care of on the fuel side.

[rexman72 210]

Yes, that pump looks correct, and what Garry says is correct (as usual)

But ..... On my long owned D-180 I was consistently having hard starting problems, and after some frustrating times I finally added an electric pump and that immediately cured it. Now, to further elaborate on the D-200 episode -- after the carb cleaning I rigged a gravity flow fuel supply (my tank was terrible) and as I said it started right up. I had found a non-functioning electric pump back near the tank and discarded all that mess, With a new/used tank, I started running all new line and ran it through the pump on the engine to see if it might work - no luck. So after my 180's problems, I immediately added an electric - problem cured!

Seems like - long ago? - I read/heard the vacuum pump wasnt reliable? not sure of that, but I did have my problems (I have a 18 auto that runs fine on the original pump - so far!)

what was the 12 volt fuel pump you used?

[pacer 3,160]

It was off ebay, I'll send you a PM with a link...
 

 

[rexman72 210]

started tractor by putting gas in top of carb but it doesn't seem to be drawing gas from the lines and there all brand new.Does anyone have the part number for an impulse fuel pump for the K53

[wheeledhorseman 573]

I have two D-200s, one of which I fitted an electric pump. Take care though when choosing a pump. The one I used was a 12 volt Facet pump delivering 1.5 - 4 psi which is suitable for a carburettor. Some models deliver higher pressures which the float needle won't cope with. Turn on the ignition, wait a couple of seconds for the bowl to fill and then it starts on the button.



As an experiment, I fitted the other D with a new replacement vacuum pump. Got it from fleabay and it was a genuine NOS Kohler, looked essentially the same but not intended for the 20HP twin so I had to mount it slightly differently. Being a new one it was way better than the tired old one and that tractor starts after it turns over a few times and the float bowl has been filled.

I prefer the electric solution for the 'on the button' result.

I also fitted the same type Facet electric pump to my 316 which suffered the dreaded drain back and much cranking to get the fuel back up that's a feature of the rear tank models. A much more cost effective solution over buying a new Onan vacuum pump. Again that tractor has been 'on the button' ever since.

Andy

[wheeledhorseman 573]

Sorry - posts crossed there - 

Have you tried (prepare for a mouth full) sucking up gas through the pipe from the tank. If the tap is faulty or the mesh filter collapsed and blocked no pump is going to get fuel to the carb.

The other thought, depending on what you mean by putting fuel in the carb, is that I had issues with the float needle getting stuck up. I think the rubber tip had got softened or something - perhaps by alcohol in the gas but it was a real pain involving taking the carb off each time to free the needle. It was something that seemed to happen between uses. It's stopped happening now but I always run the engine for a minute with the tank tap closed before shutting down to lower the level in the bowl to make certain the needle is open and won't be stuck when I next try and start it.

(EDIT)  For a vacuum impulse pump try a well known auction site and search for Kohler fuel pump. Scroll down and you'll come across diecast bodied Kohler vaccum pumps. The one I used was like these - same body as the original D but mounting lugs and inlet / outlet / vacuum hose positions were different. I just plumbed and mounted it to suit. Much cheaper than  the exact Kohler if I recall.

Edited June 25, 2015 by wheeledhorseman

[rexman72 210]

yes I did the mouth sucking gas in my mouth and its not working.the lines are brand new along with the gas valve and filter.I was wondering what impulse pump would fit in to replace the old pump incase I don't use a 12 volt pump.

[wheeledhorseman 573]

Just added a pic to the last post.

[rexman72 210]

OK i am going to pick a 12 volt fuel pump up.What do i do with the hose that goes in the crankcase from the old impulse pump?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

That hose or hole needs to be capped or plugged so the crankcase is under vacuum with the engine running.

Garry

[wheeledhorseman 573]

As Garry has said - plug it. Mine has a fine thread bolt pushed into the rubber hose, a temporary solution that's kind of become semi-permanent as it's worked fine.

In case it's of use to anyone looking at this thread, here's my other D-200 with a replacement vacuum pump.


As mentioned previously, it has a different pipe layout to the original but came in a Kohler box and according to the vendor it was for a Magnum series engine of some sort. Pumps with a slightly different pipe layout again can be found on fleabay at the moment as Kohler part # 24-393-04 / Briggs & Stratton part # 491922. Basically the same pump with a different pipe layout. I was going to make a plate so that both mounting holes could have a bolt through them but again haven't got round to it yet.

Not sure if you can get the original D type pump from Kohler as I didn't make enquiries based on the likely price if you can still get them. The above replacement has been working fine for a couple of years now as has the electric pump I fitted to the other D.

Andy

[rexman72 210]

andy thanks for the pics as they are a huge help.I picked up the same vacuum as you have so when i get home i am going to install it right where yours is.Now when i try to start my engine it should pull the gas into the pump and then into the carb?