Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
TunaSlayet

Kwik-Way Pump/Valve Hydrolic Question

Recommended Posts

TunaSlayet

Hi All,

I recently picked up a kwik way loader. It needs a little love here and there, but over all, it seems to be in good shape. The hoses, pins, and cylinders all look good. So my question is this, I have available to me for no charge a haldex high performance gear pump. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329756_200329756

I would like to replace the 6 gpm stock pump with this one if my stock pump ever fails, but this thing is cranking out 17.9gpm at 3600 rpm. So all the hydrolic guys, I need your help here. I am willing to replace the control valves if need be, but I really don't want to do any damage to the cylinders or hoses with this pump. I am pretty handy, but I am an electrician, not a doctor for god sakes!  I am willing to buy a hydrolic pressure gauge, and adjust the bypass valve if need be. Just need to locate a decent hydrolic pressure gauge at a reasonable price? Anyhow, these are all pipe dreams I have for the future, and I am not in dire need of taking anything apart to fix it as it is working right now. Just in the plannign stage, and I am looking for some insight for the wheelhorse experts. 

As an aside, I also have a hydrolic motor, which I am thinking of using to drive my 2-stage blower. I want to mount the blower to the loader arms, as I really believe it would be easier that the set up wheelhorse came up with for mounting that beast. 4 pins and 2 hydrolic quic connects does not seem too bad. I plan on putting the blower in my bucket, and driving it around to make sure the loader can support the blower comfortably before I get going on this.   I am pretty sure I would need the extra gpm's of the new pump to suppy enough juice to the loader and hydrolic motor, but the hydrolics are all very new to me, and I should probably start doing some reading to get at the very least, a decent understanding of flow rates and pressures in the system. Just to be clear, I understand the safety issues with hydrolics, and I want this to be a safe and reliable rig. 

Thanks,
Sean

image1 (1).JPG

Edited by TunaSlayet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish

The 17 GPM will probably make that loader uncontrollable because it will move those small diameter cylinders so fast.
The loader should handle the weight of the blower but you will get light on the rear tires unless you add some serious weight. Mine gets light in the rear when I fill a FULL bucket of dirt in the loader and I have a 600 pound (guessing on the weight) backhoe hanging off the back. I used to run a blower on it too and just fabricated a link to use the loader for raising and lowering it but it connected to the tractor normally.
If that hydraulic motor can handle the 17 GPM from the other pump, you can mount the pump separate to power a separate valve and the motor. I use 2 pumps on my tractor but they are both small pumps. One for the loader and one for the backhoe. I'm not sure how much power it takes to run that 17 GPM pump but you should research that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dennys502
You will need 37.8 Horsepower for 3000 psi and 15.75 Horsepower for 1500 psi to run an 18 gpm pump. Going faster with the hydraulics is nice but it also gets too jerky and like John said not very easy to control. A full load on the bucket bouncing quickly is not good. I don't like the slow speed on mine but I don't need to move anything that fast so it works for me.

I assume you're talking about the 44" 2 stage snowblower you want to mount on the tractor. We used the same snowblower on the Dingo - it had 10.8 gpm on the high flow side of the hydraulics. I could load that 22 hp Dingo to the point it would almost stall in 18 inches of snow. One nice thing about mounting it on the loader is the ability to cut down deep drifts. What is going to limit you is the Horsepower you have to work with.

This is how we mounted the hydraulic motor to the blower for the dingo. As you can see we used the rubber coupler to connect to the motor. This is the same coupler used on the 5xi driveshaft and the pump on the dingo. It was used on a lot of different toro products.

 

 

DSC_0002.JPG

DSC_0003.JPG

Edited by Dennys502

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...