Is this a good deal? need advice!!

[Tennessee Country Boy 0]

Ok , did what i should have to start with. looked at the pictures. You can see from the back side that it did have a starter push buttom on it. (552-702) :hide:

[Michael Bullington 5]

that shifter level is interesting on your 502 ...it looks like the ones Ive seen on the 61 models

[sorekiwi 761]

that shifter level is interesting on your 502 ...it looks like the ones Ive seen on the 61 models

Apparently the early 502's had the shift lever with 1 bend, later ones had 2 bends to allow clearance for the hy 2 hydraulic pump.

[Tennessee Country Boy 0]

Something else. Must be an early 62. has a 61 shifter and a 61 steering weld. Like I said in another topic. Using up the left over Parts from 1961 on the the 1962 like they did on the 1045"s. You can see half of the battery box still there next to the stering assy. Thinking now by looking at frame it is a 702. Henry in Tennessee

[linen beige 14]

This is a 702. The bolt on dash plate, single tie rod, 2 bolt mounting of lift arm, and serial number tag tell us that it is a '62. It had electric start as evidenced by the paint markings where a starter push button has been removed, and the serial number tag is mounted below this hole. This tag covered the starter button hole on the 502s. That tells us it was not a 502. The frame paint is marked in a manner consistent with having had a Kohler mounted on it, and the choke cable (Choke and throttle are not original, they have the wrong knobs.) is worn and bent in a manner consistent with it having been routed down under the flywheel housing and up to the carb on a Kohler. This tells us it was not a 552. Your steering wheel has been changed. My 702 has the plastic wheel, and your serial number is higher than the one on mine. Your shift lever is correct for '62. It has the same bends in it that my 702 has, and mine has the HY-2 lift on it. The early '62s DID come with a STRAIGHT (Not counting the forward bend just above where it exits the tranny.) shift lever and the HY-2 mounting instructions show where and how to bend it to clear the pump. These same instructions say that later '62s have the bend from the factory, and give a part number for a factory bent one if you don't want to bend your own.

Why not throw a K-181s on it and build an 802?

[DMESS 24]

I think the steering wheel is still the original one. Looks like the spokes broke at the hub and it had the plastic trimmed away so it could be re-welded. I have one that suffered the same fate.

I didn't really notice that last pic, but it DOES look like the markings from a Kohler oil pan. Someone probably stole a good engine for another project. And Jim has a good observation about the choke cable routing.

I'll retract my statement about it being a 552, but I bet there's a good runing K-161 out there somewhere missing its home! :hide:

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Nice eYe Jimbo! You shoulda been a cop! :hide:

[linen beige 14]

Nice eYe Jimbo! You shoulda been a cop!

Hey wait! They pay me to NOT be one now.

Now I'm gonna do a lawyer impression. Notice I said the steering wheel had been changed. I didn't say it had been replaced. I think Dustin's right. It looks like it has been re-welded.

[Greg Parnell 6]

I've thought it a few times and now I'll say it, You guys are "da bomb" when it comes to Wheel Horses. Thanks for all the help!

One question, for a 702. The 7 = 7hp Kohler, the 2 = 1962, what does the 0 mean?

[JimD 3,345]

i think the 0 is for recoil start.

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,660]

i think the 0 is for recoil start.

Except the 702 was an electric start tractor like the 701.

Mike....

[JimD 3,345]

Except the 702 was an electric start tractor like the 701.

Mike....

oops. now i'm confused, again. is this another glitch in the numbering system like the 1045, or am i just :imstupid: what made me think that was my 753, also the 854, etc. can you enlighten me? thanks sparky, jim.

[htopjimmy26 3]

Good luck with that I still don't understand this old numbering system either, It seemed to involve a dartboard and a cointoss :hide:

[linen beige 14]

I'll take a stab at it.

The first models to use this numbering system were the 1960 models.

400= 4.0 hp. built in '60

550= 5.5 hp. built in '60

401= 4.0 hp. built in '61

551= 5.5 hp. built in '61

701= 7.0 hp. built in '61

552= 5.5 hp. built in '62

702= 7.0 hp. built in '62

I think they just threw in the 502 number to explain the recoil start on a 5.5 hp. engine and then continued with this in '63 & '64. The 633 really doesn't fit into this system though.

Dana is probably right. Moon phases and weather patterns could have come into play.

[JimD 3,345]

does the 702 have both electric and recoil start? man, dart board, coin toss, moon phase, or maybe witchcraft? sure is confusing for a small mind. :hide:

[DMESS 24]

does the 702 have both electric and recoil start? man, dart board, coin toss, moon phase, or maybe witchcraft? sure is confusing for a small mind.

Just a key! :D

[linen beige 14]

Just a key!

And a pushbutton! It's a two step proccess. :hide:

[DMESS 24]

And a pushbutton! It's a two step proccess.

That explains why I could never get my 702's started! It's true...you learn something new every day. :hide:

[sorekiwi 761]

It's a two step proccess.

On a 502 its a 15 step process:

1. Flick the switch.

2. Pull strter rope (10 times).

3. Check for spark

4. Pull starter rope (10 times)

5. Check for gas

6. Pull starter rope 10 times.

7. Swear at Tecumseh

8. Pull starter rope 10 times

9. Change spark plug (even though it looks fine and was new last time you started it)

10. Pull starter rope 10 times

11. Rebuild carburetor.

12. Pull starter (6 times)

13. Rebuild recoil (as its all worn out now)

14. Pull starter 10 times.

15. Spray Ether down carb as someone else furiously pulls starter rope 10 times

and if the gods are smiling on you, that #%@*ing Tecumseh might just spring into life....

[DMESS 24]

On a 502 its a 15 step process:

1. Flick the switch.

2. Pull strter rope (10 times).

3. Check for spark

4. Pull starter rope (10 times)

5. Check for gas

6. Pull starter rope 10 times.

7. Swear at Tecumseh

8. Pull starter rope 10 times

9. Change spark plug (even though it looks fine and was new last time you started it)

10. Pull starter rope 10 times

11. Rebuild carburetor.

12. Pull starter (6 times)

13. Rebuild recoil (as its all worn out now)

14. Pull starter 10 times.

15. Spray Ether down carb as someone else furiously pulls starter rope 10 times

and if the gods are smiling on you, that #%@*ing Tecumseh might just spring into life....

You know..I hate to admit it...but I have a 551 that generally required the same set of instructions to coax into operation. I remember one day when I was quite certain I broke my neck yanking on that recoil. Didn't have the e-start working so I had no other choice. I'm not real sure why that machine is still here. <_<

[htopjimmy26 3]

:hide: Sounds EXACTLY like the same starting instructions for my old ariens and craftsman[AMF] snowblowers [HSK70] , I actually remember getting a kind of tennis elbow [Tecumsuck elbow] from the recoil just before they failed to re-coil any more. I remember spinning the machine half-way around from furiosly yanking it over in a vain attempt at using the piece of equipment If ever anything represented dissapointment cast in aluminum it's a Tecumseh! For letting me get this off my sore shoulders. :omg:

[JimD 3,345]

boy, i thought the 12 step program was tough. :D

[linen beige 14]

On a 502 its a 15 step process:

1. Flick the switch.

2. Pull strter rope (10 times).

3. Check for spark

4. Pull starter rope (10 times)

5. Check for gas

6. Pull starter rope 10 times.

7. Swear at Tecumseh

8. Pull starter rope 10 times

9. Change spark plug (even though it looks fine and was new last time you started it)

10. Pull starter rope 10 times

11. Rebuild carburetor.

12. Pull starter (6 times)

13. Rebuild recoil (as its all worn out now)

14. Pull starter 10 times.

15. Spray Ether down carb as someone else furiously pulls starter rope 10 times

and if the gods are smiling on you, that #%@*ing Tecumseh might just spring into life....

This can be reduced to three steps quiet easily.

1. Replace with Kohler engine.

2. Turn ignition key to "on"

3. Push starter button and marvel at the sound of a running engine.

Although I feel I must be fair. I have one Lauson and one Tecumseh. The Lauson (V55D) sat for 35+ years. I cleaned the points and she fired up on the first pull.

The Tecumseh (HH-100) sat for at least five years. I put gas in it and a battery on it and she fired right up. I just don't like the way she sputters and surges because the carb is such a poor design.