implement, hitch, lift question

[chorusguy 223]

Hi all.  I have a c-160 automatic and i absolutely love the thing.  I want to do a garden and i have a rear mount tiller and also a cultivator.  But I have questions about the hitch and the lift.  In the case of the tiller, I will lift but just barely enough to get it off the ground and won't release enough to really dig in.  The tractor looks like it has cobbled together bits of steel cable and chain that I use to hook the to the tiller.  The tiller has two half inch? holes on its bracket that i attach with a bar through the holes on the back of the rear axle like a regular hitch does.  So what I do is extend the chain, attach it to the tiller then raise the tiller to move it.  When I get to the place where I want to till, I lower the chain and unhook the tiller and then till letting the weight of the tiller push it down to the ground.  So obviously something isn't correct.  I know it wouldn't work this poorly from the factory.  Help?

 

The cultivator is a sleeve hitch configuration.  Since I don't currently have a sleeve hitch I cobble things together and just pull it.  Of course I have no way of lifting it.  So recommendations for a sleeve hitch.  Can I use a combo of some sort?  

 

Lastly, is a general question.  Since the automatic lift uses cable and/or chain to hoist things I assume that the down force required by any of these implements is supplied but the weight of the implement itself and perhaps added weight such as cinder blocks.  Is this correct?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

[groundhog47 347]

First what model tiller? Most tillers I've seen attach with a hitch with bar on tractor end that affixes to the rear axle attachment. Some have a spring assist that attaches to angle piece on axle attachment to tiller drawbar. There should either be a vertical bar on tiller frame or a square piece affixed to tiller tine guard (with 2 or 3 holes). Either attachment points accepts chain link or cable link usually from "rocker" device between the 2 seat supports. Those in combination should give your proper lift and allow for proper depth. Check out this Operator manual and see if any similarity like may be attached only to transmission hitch hole which prob can't be gerry-rigged.

Also here is a good post with links to more posts with pictures of associated hookups (ref: pfrederi/links)(esp post 12 and 7)

 

As for the weight on cultivator, most list and accommodate cinder block(s) for downward force. Please if have pictures give us a look see for better clarification.  Her's one manual that shows cultivator with block

Edited March 11, 2015 by groundhog47

[can whlvr 991]

I too have a 160 auto,as well as several others,i would tell you that a hydro tractor isn't very good at all for tilling,the tiller will push the tractor no matter how much you try to stop it with the speed control,i put it on a hydro even though I was warned the same as im telling you,but I didn't listen,i have since put mine back on an 8 speed and would never put it back on a hydro,the hydro is very good for most every thing else just not suited for tilling