Andrew58 1 #1 Posted March 1, 2015 Hello fellow Wheel Horse fans. My first post! I just joined this forum yesterday in hope that I can learn some things about my 1969 Wheel Horse Workhorse 700. I just bought it off of an old friend that quit using it about five years ago and its been sitting ever since. I have a Tecumseh H70 130042 aluminum engine on it and I've been cleaning it up and refurbishing a few things on it, like rebuilding the carb and cleaning up the points etc. I have it running very well after all that work. But, today after starting it and driving it around the farm a bit, I noticed after I parked it in the garage I have a bad oil leak on the flywheel side. It's obviously coming out the crankshaft seal. My question to the forum, can I slip the crank out of the block without removing the piston? Can I remove the side plate, unbolt the connecting rod and wiggle that darn crankshaft out of there and leave that piston in place? That way I can knock the bushing and seal out of the flywheel side, replace both bushings and seals and I'm on my way. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheel-mule 45 #2 Posted March 1, 2015 There should be no reason to remove the crank to replace the seal.There is no brg or bushing .Just remove the flywheel and pull the seal and replace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew58 1 #3 Posted March 1, 2015 Hi Chuck. Now I'm confused. The parts list and drawing show for the H70 130042 that there is a bushing at both ends of the crankshaft, part number 31461 for the flywheel side and part number 31546 at the pto side. What am I missing? Thanks, Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
305 380 #4 Posted March 3, 2015 i believe there are bushings and seals on both sides. how badly is the flywheel side bushing worn? there can't be a lot of load there compared to the output side. maybe you could take the flywheel off and measure side play with a dial indicator. a new seal might solve the problem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 882 #5 Posted March 4, 2015 I looked up that engine on partstree and it does show the bushing, but say as required. I tend to believe it is not in all engines. Could be wrong. Don't recall seeing them in the H70's I have had apart. Would require special reamers to install. Has to be reamed with side cover in place, insert goes in side cover and ream block side. You could grab flywheel and see if the is movement whhile pulling on it or set up a dial indicator and check it more accurately. If no movement just repalce seal. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew58 1 #6 Posted March 5, 2015 Thanks for the replies. I've been reading up on this engine and what I've learned is the bushings are available to upgrade/repair a worn original crankshaft bushing (or lack thereof). As Howie posted, a special reaming tool is required to do what should have been done from begining when the engine was manufactured. A crankshaft riding in the aluminum case without a bushing? Really? So, Tecumseh gets shelved and the Kohler K161 gets taken out of storage. I knew one day I would find a use for this Kohler. Andrew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 882 #7 Posted March 5, 2015 Yah the bushing would be better, but there are literally thousands upon thousand of these small engines out there made this way, Dollars saved I suppose. Hav a Honda 20hp V-twin on the bench here and it is made the same way. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
