Jump to content
tombr77

model 1067 six speed transaxle

Recommended Posts

tombr77

Hi.  new to this forum .  :)  my reliable 1067 started behaving strangely while polwing this Virginia snow....  Third gear is slower than it used to be & pulsates, especially when going up inclines.  Second gear also, but not as much. [ using high range].   I am thinking maybe lost some teeth on a gear?   are used transaxles and/or tranny parts available?  I'd like to keep this one running if i can get what parts i need &  its not too expensive .  Any advice and thoughts welcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Terry M

Welcome to the  :rs:

  I believe your tractor has the 5060 6-speed  limited slip trans...so, with saying that, My first guess would be either the drive belt is very worn or the differential is having issues.    just my best guess.  

Some others may have a better idea.. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
groundhog47

:text-welcomewave: to :rs: Loose belt (slipping)(maybe oil on it or worn badly) or transmission input pulley loose possibly.

Edited by groundhog47

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
TT

Check the axle / hub keys first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Yep, should be one of the above.  You would know if you lost some teeth on a gear.  Let us know what you find...and yes...we do have people on here that have parts and spare transmissions for you horse.  :)

 

BTW...Welcome to Red Square.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
KC9KAS

:text-welcomewave: to :rs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

thanks for the tips.   the belt is certainly worn, i thought for sure i had a replacement on hand, but couldnt find it -- so i put belt dressing on the worn belt & it did grab better  [ and the 'chugging' was much worse... sounds like a clue-- the water from snow had been making it slip and squeal.  Also after i realized it was supposed to have limited slip, i think that must be worn out too!   I also noted that going downhill the transmission/engine doesnt provide braking like it used to... i guess that could also be the worn belt, although after the dressing i didnt hear the squeal anymore.    BTW the belt dressing is not the spray can stuff that softens the belts - it is some old 1940's vintage resin stick stuff my dad had.  usually works real well. 

It may be a badly slipping belt , thats cheap to replace & needed anyway.  There is oil in tranny, quite dirty & old... i should drain & replace on general principle. 

Any guesses why limited slip doesnt seem to be working?   that is not recent --- been that way for so long i didnt realize it had it.   But i do know that fifteen  years ago the tractor would plow several inches of snow going up the hill i cant make with plow raised anymore.  SO i think it used to work.


if i lost some teeth or badly worn, { on gear, not my mouth]  - what would i experience? 


{ BTW i will check the other suggestions as well - all good ones}

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

it is certainly possible that the belt dressing application was not uniform - creating 'sticky' sections on the worn belt.....

so if a new belt eliminates the 'chugg- chugg' drive pulsations, my next endeaver will be to investigate my lack of limited slip... in the  manual i didnt see clutch like surfaces as i expected -- what is the principle of operation for the limited slip?  i guess it's different from automotive positraction?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

{ BTW, i am really excited that there are some guys out there that know about these old Horses.  Makes me glad i kept mine running all these years.  Of course i havent found newer ones to be builts as solidly. :)  }

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
groundhog47

it is certainly possible that the belt dressing application was not uniform - creating 'sticky' sections on the worn belt.....

so if a new belt eliminates the 'chugg- chugg' drive pulsations, my next endeaver will be to investigate my lack of limited slip... in the  manual i didnt see clutch like surfaces as i expected -- what is the principle of operation for the limited slip?  i guess it's different from automotive positraction?

Member Srevasaurus Steve is the expert on these and has this video showing rebuild,

As far as how they work, I too am spmewhat perplexed. It appears only a spring type ring between 5 pinions keeps both axels in unison till tension overcomes it. Prob I'm wrong but my thought is with belt off, rear jacked up, out of gear, turning one wheel both should turn same direction lika a automotive type. If you hold one and turn other in neutral, you should feel a fairly strong resistance. Autos (some)(towards end of clurctes life) have a low end around 75 ft lbs torque with other wheel locked down. Broken teeth could completely stop till reach point where picks back up, to lock up to complete rotation, to really rough sequential grinding/bumping/rough sound rather than once in a while and would most likely occur flat/up hill or down hill load or no load conditions. Try jacking both wheels up, secure on stands and run, listen to sound. Also check oil (drain a bit) to see not  milky or evidence of water intrusion. Let us know what you find. A tear down may be needed>     

Edited by groundhog47
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

thanks.   I am thinking that maybe the viscosity of the oil around all those gears in diffverential creates 'drag' to provide limited slip... and if the 'correct fill level' is near the top of the filler plug, then i'm running low - so there would be less drag.  I hope thats it, as the fix is proper amount of oil.

i got new belt today, will try after work following drain & refill of transmssion.  Is the correct level near the top of fill  opening?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
groundhog47

thanks.   I am thinking that maybe the viscosity of the oil around all those gears in diffverential creates 'drag' to provide limited slip... and if the 'correct fill level' is near the top of the filler plug, then i'm running low - so there would be less drag.  I hope thats it, as the fix is proper amount of oil.

i got new belt today, will try after work following drain & refill of transmssion.  Is the correct level near the top of fill  opening?

Look at attached pic, fig 3 showing ring that friction holds pinions (similar to a clutch action). The viscosity does give some resistance, but doesn't affect the slip other than a dry situation.

post-8388-0-29068200-1424722000_thumb.pn

Edited by groundhog47

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

so if the 'limited slip' is not limiting the slip,,, that ring is worn?   i can't tell from the pictures where the friction surfaces are...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Tombr77...you never want to use belt grip on the transmission belt.  The belt is designed to fit down into the grooves of the pulleys and grab...but when you step on the clutch pedal, you are taking the tension off the belt (by a tension pulley under the guard) and the guard funnels the slack in the belt toward the engine pulley and the transmission input pulley stops.  This makes it possible for shifting the transmission without grinding gears.  You now need to take some mineral spirits and clean the grooves on all 3 pulleys (engine, trans and tension pulleys).  You might even want to wipe down your new belt.  If you bought the right size belt, that should fix your problems.  :)

 

Now for the limited slip.  The oil has nothing to do with it...except lubrication.  If you drain out your oil...take of the seat and fenders...use one of the seat bolt holes to re-fill.  Use 90wt oil and fill until the oil comes out the fill hole located by (I think) left rear axle.  About 2 1/2 to 3 pints.  The spring keeps the pinions (which are free floating...not on a post) in their respective places.  If the spring was broke, you would know it by the grinding sound and possibly locked up trans.  This is not posi-traction like on a car.  If you want to find out if yours is working...put the front of your horse against a tree with the rear wheels on something slippery...like ice.  Both wheels should turn...all of the other wheel horse "stick shift" tractors would just have one wheel spinning.:)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Take a look at this video...this is the 10 pinion limited slip differential..:)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
groundhog47

so if the 'limited slip' is not limiting the slip,,, that ring is worn?   i can't tell from the pictures where the friction surfaces are...

Fig 3, that ring part. It fits very snugly against the pinions. The pinions turn the gear affixed to axel. Basically I would say the ring is just a powerful resistance against rotation of pinions, sorta the inverse if you were to grab the chuck of a drill to stop or close/open it Inside free and immovable on rotation but starts drawing closed with resistance from hand. Prob bad analogy. I believe if it is badly worn, broken, or just lost spring it would be ineffective. Did you look at Steve's on the limited slip. He makes it look easy getting that ring in, but it is STOUT. I've not run mine, only assembled diff. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Gerry, I think you are pretty much, right on.  :)  How are you doing Mate??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

update --

 I drained tranny oil, very dirty & not enough  - so it was low.   but not milky   :) .  Refilled with 80-90W, couldnt find 90W without the 80  ...

Put on new drive belt.   Old one was worn enough to look like 3/8 in rather than 1/2.   I think that fixed the drive chugg, but i couldnt tell as my [ oringinal 1967] front tires have finally given up the ghost & went flat, with severe cracking. [ tube herniating....] so a pair of 16 x 6.5 x 8 are on the way as i couldnt find 16x5.5 x8 and another thread on this great forum recommended going with the 6.50 in there place.  When they come i'll know for sure.

 

As for the limited slip -- i've been plowing snow, and on inclines i have been fighting single wheel spinning. -- if either gets on anything slippery i'm stuck with one tire spinning.  which is think is equivalent to the test you recommended.  It looks to me like the ring applies pressure to both of the 'pinion holders', so it seems that surface would wear over time.  but i didnt see 'silver' powder in the old oil....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

new belt fixed the 'chugg chugg. :)  .  But limited slip differential is not limiting slip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Personally, I would not worry about the limited slip.  It is probably just that the spring is weak and they do not make them any more...and they are expensive if you can even find one. The worst that happens...your differential acts like the one everyone else has.  As long as that spring is in tact, your differential is OK.  I would imagine that you can find a new spring, but it was not really a good design...they only used this trans for a few years.  You could fix your problem with chains on the rear tires, wheel weights, maybe governor adjustments...that kind of thing.  What do you think???  :eusa-think:   In other words, I do not think it ever worked as well as they were thinking it might.  Just my 2 cents.

Edited by stevasaurus
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
groundhog47

Gerry, I think you are pretty much, right on.  :)  How are you doing Mate??

Great Steve and you? Very great also the way you help us all out on this tran stuff. I'd never tried it before seeing your instructional. :handgestures-thumbup:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

Great info! Looks like my Sqonkfest tractor 1267 has the 5060 trans also. Is this a confirmed limited slip? I know it's a plowin machine!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
groundhog47

Great info! Looks like my Sqonkfest tractor 1267 has the 5060 trans also. Is this a confirmed limited slip? I know it's a plowin machine!

On the 67 list it shows a 5060, and according to trans desc is only in Limited Slip version ? me too?

 

:party: And oh yes :hbd:

post-8388-0-90229900-1425057540_thumb.jp

Edited by groundhog47
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tombr77

Stevesaurus -

Already have wheel weights, chains slip worse on wet/slush pavement after bulk of snow removed. I also have a bucket of sand on a platform added to back.  It seems like once tires get warm from spinning, they are worse than 'first attempt' at hill....

I think i need special grippy rubber -- or that 'stick-um' spray wide receivers use on their hands....


{ i do know that about 12 years ago i was able to plow 4 inches of snow going up that hill....}

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

If you really want to get that Limited Slip working again.  I would send a "PM" to Mike "racinfool40" here on Red Square.  I am sure he will have a couple of good used springs for the differential.  You will have to drop and open that trans, but it is not hard to do.  I have videos rebuilding that particular trans and I am always here to help.  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Mitchellnh
      By Mitchellnh
      Wheel Horse parts collection. Many new-old stock and used parts for many models. Please make an appointment to view. No trades.
       
      There's a lot of parts for D-160 and the C series. This is a collection left behind by my Father, so I'm really not sure what part is what here. There's even a D-160 Tractor under a tarp in the backyard with a three point hitch. Hasn't run in a decade. I'll throw that in if you meet my price. 
       
      Willing to sell entire lot for $1850 obo
       
      Mitchellocastiglione2@gmail.com 
       




    • blu_stang
      By blu_stang
      Hi All, It's time for me to sell the D-250 I've had for the last 8 years.  It’s useable as is, or would be a great project bundle for further restoration.
       
      I am selling a large package: the running tractor, a refurbished snowblower (48”), parts snowblower, mower deck (60”), tiller (40”), front plow blade (60”), Cat 0 3-Point Hitch with adjustable top link, WH 3-Point tool bar, wheel weights and tire chains.  Also included is an extensive part collection, nearly a second tractor worth.  I will include the original manuals, an original 1976 sales brochure, and repair manuals for the tractor and the engine.  I made electronic copes of all of the above, and stored the paper copies to prevent further wear. This is one of the most complete D-250 tractor/attachment bundles I’ve seen.
       
      Some highlights from the available parts: Frame rails, extra engine, water pump, extra transaxle, extra gears, including worm gears (stored in oil bath), Front wheel set, carburetor, carb rebuild kit, rebuildable original radiator, extra radiator overflow bottle, rebuilt alternator, new voltage regulator (I was planning to change over to an alternator setup from the generator), new in package Renault engine seals, new PTO seals, ignition maintenance parts.  There are also many panels, frame pieces, cables, levers, tubes (lines) and hardware in the collection.
       
      The tractor engine runs smooth.  There are around 1050 original hours on it; It’s a 1976 edition.  Everything works, except the dash lights and the rear lights (disconnected b/c of fender).  I just haven't sorted out the wiring, but it is all there.  Headlights are good and working, as are all of the gears and levers.  The four tires are nearly new Carlisle Multi Trac, with nubs still on them.  The rear tires have been filled (ballasted) with Rim Guard for extra traction.  The hydraulic pump, front PTO clutch and brakes operate but could use a tune up.  I’ve used it for mowing and snowblowing on hills, driveway and around my land. I don’t have an original WH seat.  The snowblower was rebuilt a few years back, and assembled with all new hardware and bearings.  The mower deck gearbox was professionally serviced recently, and has a new set of blades with only a half dozen mows.  The rear fender needs a repair, but all pieces are available.  The plow and tiller are due for restoration.  The Points, Condenser and rotor have all been replaced and tuned in.  The battery is good.  I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel pump and changed out the plugs within the last 30 hours.  The replacement radiator is from a Kawasaki engine; it was installed with new hoses. There are also new custom hydraulic hoses and a new hydraulic lift cylinder.
       
      Here's a video of me mowing, this past summer.
       
      Transporting this haul in one trip will require a pickup truck and a large trailer.  









    • Merl
      By Merl
      Newbie here and I have a 520-H that runs, but needs some TLC and some minor things fixed and/or adjusted. It comes with a like new tiller that I believe has only been used once and has paint still on the tines. I am the 2nd owner and I have personally never used the tiller. I am selling my previous home that I rent and where it has been stored. My current home's yard just isn't big enough to use a rider and I need to find a new home for it. I want to sell them together to simplify and I need them gone in the next 2 weeks. Please reach out with any questions and I'll do my best to answer. I am definitely not as knowledgeable as most of you on this forum, but figured somebody would like to fix it up, part it out and/or needs a tiller. Please email or text.





    • decvt79
      By decvt79
      I recently posted about issues with my transmission and have now identified the issue.   I removed the transmission cover and found that the final pinion bearing had failed.   Bearings and race in bottom of cover.   Now need to find replacement bearing and also a new filter.   Bearing part number from Toro is 93-0446 and is stamped with “Japan Nachi 6203”.  The gasket is Toro # 93-0478.   Any help verifying these part numbers for a TORO 270H model 72106 and also locating replacement parts or equivalents would be greatly appreciated.  My transmission serial number is 049132.  Thank you!

    • tomabrown77
      By tomabrown77
      my 1067 stopped moving; limited slip had worn out long ago;  now input pully is turning , but tractor doesnt move --- very slight motion forward or backward if on level ground with no resistance.  Enough to tell me shift lever is actually changing gears.
      I suspect input shaft woodruff keys but might be something worse ... i am interested in perhaps buying a new, used,or rebuilt  transaxle if someone has one they would part with.  And any advice on opening up the transaxle and looking inside .  Or where i can find parts to rebuild it myself...
       
      ps i was on forum about 5 years ago,  forgot my username so i joined again
×
×
  • Create New...