how do I fix drilled holes in sheet metal

[Bert 760]

Like the title says, I want to fix drilled holes.

Whats the best way to fill holes that PO's have drilled? 

As always thanks in advance for any and all suggestions 

[rmaynard 16,292]

I had mine welded.

[Ed Kennell 41,915]

Back the hole with a copper or brass block...Then lay in the weld with the MIG.

[doc724 925]

Ed and Bob must have welding skills.  I don't.  My solution is to either leave the holes alone or if they are large and it really bothers you, snap in a plastic hole plug

[shallowwatersailor 3,214]

You can find metal plugs that look polished for a nice effect as well.

[rmaynard 16,292]

Ed and Bob must have welding skills.  I don't.  My solution is to either leave the holes alone or if they are large and it really bothers you, snap in a plastic hole plug

Welding skills I DO NOT have. If you look again, it says "I had mine welded".

 

I am lucky to have a friend who has the skills of a surgeon, and will weld anything for me.  

[Bert 760]

Back the hole with a copper or brass block...Then lay in the weld with the MIG.

This may be the solution I'm looking for. I am a natural welder with mig tig or bottled gas but have never been educated on 'tricks of the trade' so to speak. 

So are you saying the weld won't burn in or bond to the softer metal and that will keep the heat and filler from blowing out the back so I can fill in the missing space?

As far as plugs, great idea  but not for the vintage classics IMHO

[King Horse 22]

I did the brass trick on my 72 Chevy truck... Just get some scrap and practice. It's not as difficult as you think. It will work out better than you think.

[Bert 760]

I did the brass trick on my 72 Chevy truck... Just get some scrap and practice. It's not as difficult as you think. It will work out better than you think.

I will try it, now I need to hunt down some brass. 

Thanks 

[King Horse 22]

My tips are to drill out hole larger to clear any rust that surrounds the hole. Clean with flap wheel. If you have a metal supermarket close they will have brass blanks for cheep. Or a local machine shop. It has to be all brass and somewhat thick to absorb heat. Like a brass hammer or dolley.

[stevasaurus 23,276]

I do not know much about this, and have not really tried it, but , depending where the holes are...a propane torch and some lead (with some wax as flux) could do the trick.  In the old days (before bondo) body guys used lead as a filler and torched and filed to make things right.  It does depend on  the thickness of the steel, but you are not using a lot of heat to melt lead...but you do have to get the steel hot enough to accept the bond.  It is a lot cooler then welding...kind of like brazing...but cooler then that.  Think of it like solder...to a point.  I have done a lot of lead work...it is easy to work with.  Another option would be some type of bondo.  Using plastic wrap taped on the back side and filling the hole...sanding...etc... boom, shak-a-la-ka 

[Bert 760]

Don't have a metal supermarket but do have satellite internet so I will start hunting. Might be able to use the suppliers at work? 

thanks

[Bert 760]

I do not know much about this, and have not really tried it, but , depending where the holes are...a propane torch and some lead (with some wax as flux) could do the trick.  In the old days (before bondo) body guys used lead as a filler and torched and filed to make things right.  It does depend on  the thickness of the steel, but you are not using a lot of heat to melt lead...but you do have to get the steel hot enough to accept the bond.  It is a lot cooler then welding...kind of like brazing...but cooler then that.  Think of it like solder...to a point.  I have done a lot of lead work...it is easy to work with.  Another option would be some type of bondo.  Using plastic wrap taped on the back side and filling the hole...sanding...etc... boom, shak-a-la-ka 

I helped my brother sand and prep an on old VW bug that had lead filler in it, never really gave it a thought? Is it still available for filler? 

[stevasaurus 23,276]

A piece of soft copper tubing...hammered flat will work for what they are saying above.    That type of lead stick is probably not available anymore.  But you can still find lead in plumbing soldier, I might try a package of lead fishing weights...should be able to find a close size for the hole you are trying to fill.  Where is the hole at??  This could make a difference...if it is like where lights were mounted on a hood...I would try the lead.  If it is on the surface of the hood...I would go with the bondo.

 

Edited February 22, 2015 by stevasaurus

[Bert 760]

A piece of soft copper tubing...hammered flat will work for what they are saying above. 

That sounds like a good place to start

[Bert 760]

Between the 856 and 653 there are holes in the dash tower and fenders, most are in flat and rust free metal. 

The lead suggestion sounds like a good way to fill in pitted spots, and theres no shortage of them in my herd. 

[edpm3 19]

A copper welding spoon from Harbor Freight works for me. Less than $10 with a coupon. See it in action here: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/harbor-freight-welding-spoon.html. It's in the first part of the video. The guy is using it clamped for TIG, but you can hold it in place with one hand and MIG with the other. 

 

 

[Callen 64]

For some of the smaller holes, I would drop a machine screw through it from the outside, weld it in from the back then grind the head off smooth on the outside. Grind the weld down on the back. That will keep the weld on the back side where the more required grinding won't be as noticeable. Thicker aluminum can be used for a backer, too. The Alum bar stock from Lowe's TSC,ect, can be formed to contours of the hoods.

[Retired Wrencher 5,770]

  Any one ever tried J.B. weld this stuff works good. I have used this many times for all kinds of applications. Just make sure every thing is clean around the hole. 

Edited February 22, 2015 by T1257

[Martin 2,133]

I guess, depending on skill level and resources available any of the above maybe ok for most people.

For me though, if the hole is sheet metal, that is what I'm putting back there, either by welding up with the mig, or if it's a big hole, cutting a blank the same thickness as the surrounding material and mig welding it in. I've never been happy with bondo filled holes in sheet metal, looks terrible from the back and unless you dish the repair area, it won't be an invisible repair from the good side.

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I guess, depending on skill level and resources available any of the above maybe ok for most people.

For me though, if the hole is sheet metal, that is what I'm putting back there, either by welding up with the mig, or if it's a big hole, cutting a blank the same thickness as the surrounding material and mig welding it in. I've never been happy with bondo filled holes in sheet metal, looks terrible from the back and unless you dish the repair area, it won't be an invisible repair from the good side.

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[pfrederi 18,644]

Auto body lead is still used.

 

 www.eastwood.com     

 

    

 

Edited February 22, 2015 by pfrederi

[Martin 2,133]

Just to add......

Even if you don't have a welder, can't weld etc it's worth the effort to seek out a pro to fix them properly, I think you would be happier in the end......

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[Road-Track 39]

        An other way to fill holes in sheet metal is to use a wire feed welder to fill the hole and grind off to finish. Works fine lasts a long time!

 

I do like the lead, but do not breath the fumes. Then you have a lead horse sled. 

[Bert 760]

There is a lot of great feedback here thanks folks 

Edited February 22, 2015 by Bert

[Kelly 1,033]

I've been a body man for 30 years, Lead is NOT for filling holes nor is Bondo, they are for filling dents or maybe pits, lead if you've never done it can be hard to master, I can do it but bondo is faster and cheaper, and no if done right bondo will not crack or fall out, it's not for making sculptures, its for finishing off dents or minor imperfections AFTER the metal has been repaired close to orig. and has been prepped properly, and I use Copper as a backer when welding holes shut, I have used brass but for me copper works better, if your not good at welding thin metal, might be best to farm it out to someone that is, once you warp the hood, you will have a VERY hard time fixing it after that, buy some sheet metal the same thickness or a junk hood and drill a few holes and practice, like I said you screw it up it could look worse than it did with a few holes in it.