jeff lary 171 #1 Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) Hi all a few years ago I had the same sort of issue I think?,, I honestly cannot remember for sure. Turn the key get a whirring / humming sound starter spinning not hooking up? I replaced the solenoid last time I do know that for sure. So what is happening do you think? Just used it 2 days ago for 4 hours ran great as always. I do remember last time it failed to start a few times before it quit all together. But not this time just will not turn over. Thanks for your advice Jeff Ps I will add a couple more things. I did rap on the starter and the solenoid and nothing changed. I was just sitting here and realized that my battery is most likely 10 years old plus or minus I suppose that could be the issue too? My daughter in law has some sickness in her family, so my wife and I will be going over there soon to baby sit so they can go to the hospital. So if you respond and I don't answer right off I may be away from home for a few hours Thanks again Jeff Edited January 30, 2015 by jeff lary Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,564 #2 Posted January 30, 2015 first step - measure the battery voltage while trying to crank the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,594 #3 Posted January 30, 2015 I had same problem with my brother's 312-8 in October. I took off Magnum 12 motor tin and sprayed WD-40 into the head (Bendix) of the starter. No problem afterwards. The Magnum starter removal is a pain compared to the Kohler K version . I removed a starter on a C-121 with Kohler K motor and it only took about 15 to 20 minutes. I think the Magnum starter is a heavier duty starter but much more difficult to remove on the Wheel Horse 312 with that Magnum motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff lary 171 #4 Posted January 30, 2015 I have a cheap Harbor freight multi meter but I have to tell you I have no idea how to use it. I was in hopes to use it to tell me if power went from here to there but I honestly don't know how to even that. So sorry about the voltage measurement idea but I agree that may be the issue. I edited my first post to include this bit of info Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff lary 171 #5 Posted January 30, 2015 I just put it on the charger it is right now resting on 2.5 of a possible 8 volts . I am guessing that number to rise some before it begins to fall at least I hope it rises. I was sad to see it on 2 to be honest that is very close to a full charge. I would have felt better if it rested on 7 or 8 would have told me she was in bad shape. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #6 Posted January 31, 2015 If your battery is 10 years old, it is shot. Put a NEW battery in there and see what happens. NEVER EVER EVER "rap" on a starter. Hammers don't fix electrical problems. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff lary 171 #7 Posted January 31, 2015 Well that is a tried and true way to tell if the starter is stuck. Was it stuck, no did I injure my own starter, no don't believe so. I have it on a 2 amp 6 volt trickle charge right now. But the charger needle was resting on 2 in a 0-8 scale so I do not think it is the battery. I will check it in the am gonna let her trickle charge all night just for the h of it. What I do want to know is, I also tapped on the solenoid and still I have no engagement of the starter so . If you tap on the solenoid and nothing changes is it a starter issue? It is the original starter from 1995. I mow two lawns all summer and blow 2 yards all winter. That is a lot of starts . I think I may ....may know enough to use the multi meter on the battery to test load and I will try that in the am. How many volts should it drop when you try the starter? I have been on the web reading and if the same holds true for this tractor as in a car ,it looks like no more than a 2 volt drop when you turn the key? But I really don't know? Please don't take offence at my beginning answer but I take very good care of everything I own and would never harm any of my equipment tapping on a starter is just something I have seen done a bazillion times in my life and I have done it a few myself. In your defense I have never solved a starter issue by tapping on the starter either. That battery is at least 10 and it is a cheap Wal-Mart one too I think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #8 Posted January 31, 2015 A Well that is a tried and true way to tell if the starter is stuck. Was it stuck, no did I injure my own starter, no don't believe so. I have it on a 2 amp 6 volt trickle charge right now. But the charger needle was resting on 2 in a 0-8 scale so I do not think it is the battery. I will check it in the am gonna let her trickle charge all night just for the h of it. What I do want to know is, I also tapped on the solenoid and still I have no engagement of the starter so . If you tap on the solenoid and nothing changes is it a starter issue? It is the original starter from 1995. I mow two lawns all summer and blow 2 yards all winter. That is a lot of starts . I think I may ....may know enough to use the multi meter on the battery to test load and I will try that in the am. How many volts should it drop when you try the starter? I have been on the web reading and if the same holds true for this tractor as in a car ,it looks like no more than a 2 volt drop when you turn the key? But I really don't know? Please don't take offence at my beginning answer but I take very good care of everything I own and would never harm any of my equipment tapping on a starter is just something I have seen done a bazillion times in my life and I have done it a few myself. In your defense I have never solved a starter issue by tapping on the starter either. That battery is at least 10 and it is a cheap Wal-Mart one too I think. Well that is a tried and true way to tell if the starter is stuck. Was it stuck, no did I injure my own starter, no don't believe so. I have it on a 2 amp 6 volt trickle charge right now. But the charger needle was resting on 2 in a 0-8 scale so I do not think it is the battery. I will check it in the am gonna let her trickle charge all night just for the h of it. What I do want to know is, I also tapped on the solenoid and still I have no engagement of the starter so . If you tap on the solenoid and nothing changes is it a starter issue? It is the original starter from 1995. I mow two lawns all summer and blow 2 yards all winter. That is a lot of starts . I think I may ....may know enough to use the multi meter on the battery to test load and I will try that in the am. How many volts should it drop when you try the starter? I have been on the web reading and if the same holds true for this tractor as in a car ,it looks like no more than a 2 volt drop when you turn the key? But I really don't know? Please don't take offence at my beginning answer but I take very good care of everything I own and would never harm any of my equipment tapping on a starter is just something I have seen done a bazillion times in my life and I have done it a few myself. In your defense I have never solved a starter issue by tapping on the starter either. That battery is at least 10 and it is a cheap Wal-Mart one too I think. A 6 volt charger will not charge a 12v battery 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,564 #9 Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) I just put it on the charger it is right now resting on 2.5 of a possible 8 volts . I am guessing that number to rise some before it begins to fall at least I hope it rises. I was sad to see it on 2 to be honest that is very close to a full charge. I would have felt better if it rested on 7 or 8 would have told me she was in bad shape. Jeff, the issue is most likely either low battery voltage or a stuck "Bendix" on the starter. Its cold outside and if the battery is anywhere near 10 years old, the battery will need to be replaced. Age is a factor and the cold temperatures only serve to aggravate the issue. The cold may also be causing any petrol based lubricant on the Bendix to stiffen and prevent the assembly from engaging with the flywheel. The 2.5 meter reading on the charger is the charging AMPERAGE, not the voltage. But the fact you were charging at 2.5 amps or above does indicate the battery charge needed. The harbor freight meter will work fine. Place the selector switch on 20 volts DC range, the red lead attached to the battery (+) and black lead to battery (-). Crank the engine with the meter leads in place on the battery. A voltage indication less than 10 volts indicates a bad battery. Hammering on a kohler starter is not a good practice. If I were stuck out in the woods with the wolves circling, I might try that trick, but damage can be done. Be aware there are large, brittle magnets lining the inside of the starter. If you crack one of the magnets, you will need to replace the starter. Edited January 31, 2015 by Save Old Iron 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff lary 171 #10 Posted January 31, 2015 Jeff, the issue is most likely either low battery voltage or a stuck "Bendix" on the starter. Its cold outside and if the battery is anywhere near 10 years old, the battery will need to be replaced. Age is a factor and the cold temperatures only serve to aggravate the issue. The cold may also be causing any petrol based lubricant on the Bendix to stiffen and prevent the assembly from engaging with the flywheel. The 2.5 meter reading on the charger is the charging AMPERAGE, not the voltage. But the fact you were charging at 2.5 amps or above does indicate the battery charge needed. The harbor freight meter will work fine. Place the selector switch on 20 volts DC range, the red lead attached to the battery (+) and black lead to battery (-). Crank the engine with the meter leads in place on the battery. A voltage indication less than 10 volts indicates a bad battery. Hammering on a kohler starter is not a good practice. If I were stuck out in the woods with the wolves circling, I might try that trick, but damage can be done. Be aware there are large, brittle magnets lining the inside of the starter. If you crack one of the magnets, you will need to replace the starter. Thanks your post was very helpful specially the lesson on Multi -meters. She is all up and running I called my wheel horse dealer this morning. He said the fine snow we had last storm could have frozen the starter gear to the shaft. I put it in the shop warmed it up and It works good now. I did use the meter before reading this, and I guess I did it right. The battery w/ no load read 12.6 so when cranking it then read 10.7 to 10.3 so the battery is at the edge of no good. The charger is a 12 volt charger It has 3 settings 6v 12v 6 amp and 12v 2 amp for slow charging I meant to say 12v 2 amp last night and if I have right now worded this wrong, it is my lack of memory from the shop to here ha ha. This summer when it warms up I will change the battery. I am going to try to get by till then. This last fine snow storm we got about 20 inches . When I was blowing I had some slough off the bank's edge and fall into the Flywheel fan a bunch of times and this led to the snow melt/ frozen starter situation. I wish there was a way to shield the flywheel from this happening but without cutting off all air flow there is really no way. I always keep the tractor inside and the added warmth may have stopped this from happening but last storm I left it out over night for my son to use the next day. When he did not, I just let it sit out even if it was inside it still would have frozen I guess , still cold ya know. Thanks to all who responded till next time Jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
