D250 Driveshaft and Transmission

[blu_stang 14]

My latest project is restoring a 1976 D250 to good working condition.   I've come across a stumbling block that I could use a few opinions on.  

The engine runs smooth and starts right up even in freezing weather. The tractor is in relatively good mechanical and cosmetic condition, but there are a few things which were obviously overlooked or neglected over time.  

 

There is a vibration in the drive train that rears its ugly head, mostly when the tractor is cold and when in the low to mid RPM range.  I can feel a little bit of play in the U join closest to the motor, but there is also a bit of play in the coupler or possibly the bearing at the shaft entrance to the transmission.   The clutch plate was recently replaced and is solid.    

 

I have a good industrial power transmission place nearby which has had all of the bearings and seals I needed, so far, including metric.  I also have a place nearby that services and builds custom driveshafts.  So, I’m confident I can get what I need; it just need to figure out what my approach is going to be. I don't have experience repairing drive lines. Has anyone worked on replacing any pieces in the drive line on a D250? 

 

So far, I intend to replace the U joints in the driveshaft. That seems like an obvious step.  I also was considering having the driveshaft balanced once the U joints are replaced.  The biggest unknown to me is the play where the driveshaft meets the transmission.  Does anyone have a solid D250 they would be willing to climb under to check the play on that shaft?  I have no sense for how much play is OK, or if this is something I am going to have to take care of, right away.  Based on all of what I have read about the early D250 transmissions, the play at the transmission has caught my attention.

 

Also, if anyone happens to know the size (dimensions by numbers) of the U joints needed, having those would help speed up the repair process.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Ed Kennell 40,637]

I can't help with your D-250  Blu, but I am sure the experts will chime in soon to help.

Welcome to the    and

[blu_stang 14]

I made some good progress on my own this past week.  

 

After calling around, I found that most of the local auto repair shops that claim to do driveline repair in fact have their driveshaft work done at the local FleetPride. I took the driveshaft off and brought it in to them.  The guys at FleetPride had the repairs done in a day and had no problem sourcing new U joints.

 

I am glad I took it to professionals.  Apparently it had not been aligned properly and had been beaten up a bit so it needed some repairs beyond just the U joints. This easily explains the vibrations I was feeling. FleetPride was able to correct the damage and get the new U joints in. They chose to replace the greaseable type with non-greaseable.  The work on my driveshaft was a little expensive at about $250.  Nonetheless, I think it was worth it to get great professional service and brand new parts for a 40 year old metric tractor.

 

As for the transaxle, once I got the driveshaft off I was able to feel the coupler for the transmission into the Hi/Lo gears.  No problem there, all was tight. So, I think i should be good to go for a little while.

 

By the way, I know the D250 has a bad rap for part sourcing.  But I have to say, I've had pretty good luck sourcing new parts for this tractor.  I wont hide that It has taken a little bit of digging, but so far I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel lines with new parts.  Many new hydraulic hoses (apparently they're all US standard size, or close enough).  The points, condenser and distributor cap were replaced with new parts by the previous owner and I have an extra set.  Obviously, now the driveshaft U joints are new. I was able to order a new water pump pulley set from Continental Engines in SC. Through that transaction I was able to confirm that they can pretty much get new parts for the entire motor directly through the Renault factory, right up to the flywheel and clutch.  I've found sources for a new starter and new or rebuilt alternators to replace the generator.  I have new bearings, chains and hardware on the snowblower I rebuilt, including for the gearbox.  A new rear PTO shaft seal.  New engine gaskets.  NOS Solex 26 DIS rebuild kit and a set of 5 NOS Solex gasket kits.

 

So far, I think the only parts I felt I needed to buy used were the transaxle gears and the axle housings.  If the transaxle goes, then that will be by far the biggest challenge to repair; as has been stated in the past.  However, I've also been in the background considering how I might be able to retrofit a Tuff Torq K92 hydrostatic transaxle into this tractor, should the old Guttbrod box ever be beyond repair. At least it's food for thought.