Onan P-216G Oil Leaks

[rmaynard 14,922]

In the process of working on the 416-H, I decided to strip and clean the engine to try and find where all the oil was coming from. I had oil from the filter area, oil filler area, and all over the bottom half of the block. I replaced the oil filter adapter gasket, fuel pump pulse hose, cleaned and checked the crankcase breather. replaced the seal at the bottom of the dipstick/filler tube. 

 

The last thing that I would have even been concerned about was the oil pan drain, but when I went to put the 3/8" NPT pipe back in, it would not thread properly. Upon inspection, it appears that someone removed the pipe at one time and cross threaded it putting it back in. I cleaned the threads of the oil pan as best I could and applied pipe sealer, screw in the drain pipe and put a quart of oil in. One hour later, it was still dry, but 2 hours later it was leaking.

 

So, here is my question. Is there a way to repair the aluminum oil pan drain hole threads, or am I about to buy a replacement pan?

[Geno 1,928]

I would try to run a tap in and try to straighten out the threads.  If that didn't work I would replace the pan.  You could also try a heavy thread tape like for LP gas, that stuff will seal up a lot of thread problems for many many years! 

Edited January 13, 2015 by Geno

[squonk 38,988]

A pipe tap and Blue Monster tape

[rmaynard 14,922]

Geno,

I am using gold tape now. Tried 3 wraps. Then 3 wraps plus Teflon sealer. Still leaking.

[Desko 552]

Thats ashame with the pan wish i could ship you one but theres no way i could but joes, Kelly, or boomer will probably have one glad to see the onan isn't a boat anchor like a few ive had and you'll love that 416

[rmaynard 14,922]

Well this is not what I had hoped for. After seeing the oil dripping from the pan, I was forced to pull the engine again and remove the pan. 

Doesn't bode well for quick fixes. Here is a picture of what's left of the threads.

 

 

Digging a little deeper into my pockets, I am now off in search of a replacement oil pan. 

 

 

 

 

The good news is that I found no metal or sludge in the bottom of the pan.  

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

Glad to hear SOME good news!

 

Hopefully you can find an inexpensive used one, there should be plenty of bad Onans floating around that people weren't interested in fixing.

[rmaynard 14,922]

That's what I'm hoping.

[Eric C 109]

Drill and tap to next size???

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[rmaynard 14,922]

I'm giving that some thought.   

[bobert94 38]

 Since u dont have anything to lose i would suggest JB weld. I had a water leak on  my van at the hose fitting in the intake coulnt change it without pulling intake manifold. Hasnt leaked a drop in over 3 years and its under alot more pressure than your drain pipe nipple.

[rmaynard 14,922]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't use epoxy to repair anything that may be a problem down the road. I have been known to use it for filling dings and small holes, but something as crucial as oil in an engine is another story. At my age, I may forget that I glued the pipe in and try to remove some day.

 

So I decided to drill and re-tap the hole, put a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter in, and use my existing drain pipes. Problem is, I don't have a 1/2" NPT tap. So I call the local Ace Hardware and they have them. $20.00. As I am driving to the store when I get a call from a guy who has a pan from a P-218G off a John Deere 318. Says I can have it for $25.00.

 

So let's see...

$20.00 for the tap;

$5.00 for the adapter;

 

No brainer. I went with the $25.00 oil pan.

 

Now, as soon as the new pan gasket arrives, I will be okay...I think.

 

 

[Eric C 109]

I would NEVER mix deer and horse parts!

Just kidding. I'm glad things worked out.

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[rmaynard 14,922]

UPDATE:

 

Lot's of repairs have been going on and I haven't updated the oil leak problem. So here it is:

In light of the problem with oil and grass clippings literally everwhere, I stripped the tractor to the frame. Cleaned everything. It is amazing how well oil and grass protect the paint. After cleaning, I stripped all the covers off the engine, cleaned that, and did a de-carboning. Adjusted the valves, cleaned the heads, but did nothing with the carburetor since the engine was running well when I took it out of service. Here is what I did to stop the oil leaks, even though I never did find anything other than bad theads in the oil drain.

Replaced the pan and gasket;

Replaced the seal at the bottom of the dipstick tube;

Replaced the gasket on the oil filter adapter;

Replaced the fuel pump pulse hose;

Replaced the oil pressure switch;

Retorqued all nuts and bolts;

Replaced oil filter and filled with the proper amount of 10W30 dino motor oil.

 

On the transmission I did the following:

Drained all the old oil;

Removed all hoses and tubes to inspect for cracks or damage;

Replaced all O-rings at all the fittings;

Replaced the suction tube that was cut almost through;

Installed new oil filter and filled with about 4-1/2 quarts of Fully Synthetic 10W30.

 

Repaired the wiring harness and installed enough parts to get the engine and transmission going.

 

The engine started as soon as it got fuel, purred like it should. Engaged the transmission and ran it up on blocks for about 5 minutes. Engaged the hydro lift up and down, engaged the forward and reverse.

 

So far, NO LEAKS.

 

Tomorrow, I will run an exhaust hose to the outside of the garage and let it run for a lot longer, but so far I am happy.

 

By the way, up on blocks, the motion control problems seem to be fixed, but that is something that I won't know for sure until it's on the ground and running.

 

[Martin 2,130]

I hope that everything stays dry, Bob. Seems like you covered just about all the areas that usually end up being a problem eventually if not already......

Its a lot of work, fully dismantle the tractor down to the major components and then some work on the engine and hyd. system as well. 

 

You are one of the few that will go to these lengths to get things how they should be. In the long run though, its the most sensible way to work, rather than constantly fixing little things and removing/replacing parts multiple times.....

 

if only they had the care they deserved earlier in life.......

still, wouldn't be able to pick up the cheaper ones if they all looked and ran perfect....

[rmaynard 14,922]

@Martin - I could not have done it without your help too. You document your work so well. I took literally 100's of pictures as I was dismantling the 416, but as my luck would have it, I missed some of the more important things like "where does this segment of the wiring harness go?" or "how does the parking brake get reassembled"? So I saved your "416 Adventure" thread to a file on my Kindle. I take it along with my parts manual to the garage when I work. Then, when I am stumped, if I can't find the answer in the manual, I pull out the Kindle and look at your thread for the answer.

[boovuc 1,090]

Hey Bob,

 

I removed half a 5 gallon bucket of grass clippings from under the frame and tower tunnel on my tractor the other day. Lots of leaking oil I think came from my hydro-lift connections. Your right! The paint is really beautiful where the oil and grass were at. No rust there!

Glad you got yours back together and working!