fast88pu 3,313 #1 Posted January 4, 2015 Any help would be appreciated. I've taken it apart and found no visual issues. All I found was dirt around the strainer. Would that cause a lack in power when it warms up till it feels warm to the touch ? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #2 Posted January 4, 2015 Providing the tow valve isn't open or leaking?... It's likely to be wear, does the lift work at full power when it's hot? When the tranny heats up, all the wear grooves in the pump and motor reduce pressure and hence power. You could try a new filter and fresh oil after flushing and see if it's any better, failing that it's a full rebuild or swap for a good one! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #3 Posted January 4, 2015 Bad pump its common in the D series where the facing on the brass pistons get scared and loose pressure but id change the oil with good 10w 30 and filter napa 1410 but check the level first and all the simple stuff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #4 Posted January 4, 2015 The valve was close and I did see some marks on the brass. Cleaned it up on a flat surface with some 1000 grit sand paper. New filter and fluid tomorrow and I will see if it is any better. Will let you guys know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #5 Posted January 4, 2015 And also their is no lift installed on my machine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #6 Posted January 5, 2015 lift is just an easy way to check the charge pump... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,171 #7 Posted January 5, 2015 The dirt around the strainer is not a good thing. Some has probably circulated through the system. Really need to pressure test the charge pump first. I assume it is a piston to piston unit. In which case you need to check the brass valve plate on the pump and the motor (sounds like you checked one, which was it?). However you also need to look at the slippers (pistons) as they can be scored also. Swash plates need to checked also The sundtrand manual you can down load here is good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #8 Posted January 5, 2015 I did the pump side now I have to do the motor side. The slippers looked good in the pump. Will check the motor later Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #9 Posted January 5, 2015 If yours is the same sundstrand, here's the pic I did when I pressure tested my charge pump. Also useful for adding hydraulics which mine didn't have... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brrly1 1,146 #10 Posted January 5, 2015 Mark, did anybody mention the acceleration springs? There are two springs well actually the are four springs. Mark on you little motor do you have a place where you can show him that. The size of the wrench you'll need is an 1 3/16. Remove those two bolts one on the front side, one on the rear and inside you'll find two springs one smaller and one larger, now if either one of these springs are broken you'll need to replace them. If so shoot me a pm. A few years back a friend had a bunch of springs duplicated. Pretty sure the well hasn't run dry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #11 Posted January 5, 2015 Mine has the piston piston set up on it. Does it still have the two springs behind the caps ? Cause I only seen one long spring Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #12 Posted January 5, 2015 (edited) It seems unlikely both springs would break? And it would be low power when cold? Gotta b worth a look though... I think that's the only pic I have Edited January 5, 2015 by meadowfield Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brrly1 1,146 #13 Posted January 5, 2015 True but there is actually a pair of them and I have found a pair of them before. I would definitely check out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #14 Posted January 5, 2015 If the springs were worn out would it only loose power when it gets hot or all the time ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #15 Posted January 6, 2015 The tension, or lack of on the springs will be constant at whatever temperature. If the springs are broken it doesn't usually move hot or cold (from my reading on the subject) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #16 Posted January 6, 2015 That what I was thinking. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #17 Posted January 10, 2015 Does anyone know what the oem gasket # is for the gasket between the hydo and the transmission ? And what the oem drive belt # is ? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,529 #18 Posted January 11, 2015 The gasket is #5955 and no longer available from Toro. Drive belt is Toro # 8334 Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #19 Posted January 11, 2015 Can a gasket be made with RTV silicone ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,529 #20 Posted January 11, 2015 I would think that application should have a paper gasket. Easy to make if you have a set of gasket punches. I find it is easier to make all gaskets rather than order a wait for them. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremi3210 688 #21 Posted January 11, 2015 I make all my own gaskets. I rub a thin coat of grease on the part I want to make the gasket for and use it like a stamp on the gasket meterial. Just try to get the gasket the same thickness. A set of hole punches work great for this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,171 #22 Posted January 11, 2015 I would strongly recommend against using RTV silicone anywhere on a hydro system. I have found blue stuff in very odd places in hydros I have opened up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #23 Posted January 11, 2015 I am going to try to make a new gasket. Where can I get gasket making material ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #24 Posted January 11, 2015 NAPA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast88pu 3,313 #25 Posted January 18, 2015 So I installed it and it was better but still not 100 percent. I took it back out and did a more complete job this time with new gaskets and seals. Still have to put it back it. With a good belt should it be able to stall the engine out ? And does anyone know the diameter of the idler pully on a GT14 ? I want to make sure it has the right one on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
