Mule drive

[Dans wheelhorse 5]

Hello all, For the first time (machine is new to me)I removed my mule drive and took off my 48" deck on my 518h with a little problem the black knob was hard to turn. Now I put everything else back on and that black knob only turns a 1/4 turn each way. I used pb blaster, no give. And now I got a lot of play in the belt from deck to engine.

[rmaynard 14,932]

Make sure that when you turn the knob that the screw rod is also turning. There is a roll pin that affixes the knob to the rod. Those pins have a tendency to shear if the threads get rusted. If it is okay, just soak it with PB Blaster over night, and try again in the morning.

[Dans wheelhorse 5]

Ya I can see thread turning, and that cylinder thing ( excuse my mechanical term)that goes opposite way seems intact. Let's say this thing comes free, how does turning that black knob tighten belt? That screw rod doesn't touch anything. Or is it suppose to? I took pics of tractor before I disassembled, of course not that.

[rmaynard 14,932]

When the mule drive is connected to the front hitch, turning the knob pushed the whole assembly forward, causing the belts to tighten.

[Dans wheelhorse 5]

Thank you for your help, gonna keep on soaking

[daveoman1966 3,629]

The complete mule drive should look like this one.  Turning the knob screws the threaded rod in or out of the trunion which causes the shaft with the two pulleys to move forward or backward, thus tightening or loosening the belt.  Use PB Blaster or some other penetrant to free up the threads and CAREFULLY work the knob back and forth until it turns freely.  You MAY want to wire brush the threads, depending upon how much rust has built up.  NOTE.... do NOT use pliers on the plastic knob to turn it.  It is very like to break...$15 or so for a new one.  

 

Another note...  grease up the threads to prevent rust.      

Edited December 16, 2014 by daveoman1966

[Dans wheelhorse 5]

Red square and penetrating oil, what a combo. Knob turns smooth and belt is tight. Thanks guys.

[rmaynard 14,932]

It was the penetrating oil. But I'll take the credit as well.

[Tankman 3,515]

Never-Seez and penetrating oil are PM (preventative maintenance). Always use Never-Seez when reassembling Horse parts. Half-pint can will last a long, long, long time.

 

Up the road from me I visit Lowes, large selection of stainless hardware. Use it when possible.

 

I spray the mule drive adjustment screw often after use, 'specially if it gets "damp."

 

Spray some lube oil in the adjustment handle side hole to protect the roll pin too! 

[clip 185]

Quick note: all stainless-on-stainless hardware (screw-nut, bolt-plate connections) should get a coat of anti-seize before assembly and reassembly. Stainless galls easily compared to carbon steel.

[squonk 39,042]

And when it galls IT GALLS!!!!! It will lock up tighter than a crick rock! I have had to shear off 5/8" stainless bolts using a breaker bar on some pumps at work. Not fun.  

[Dans wheelhorse 5]

Ya no kidding, I was dragging my tractor around my shed by that knob, It would not budge! I was going for a pipe wrench next but I'm a little older and tad wiser than my younger years and figured let it soak can't do any harm. Then I read daveomans post, it's like he told me don't do it lol. I've ran into another problem, gonna read some posts first see what I can find, if I can't find it look for me in electrical issues. Yes red square forum friends I will keep you all busy, I have the "only me" luck.