Snowthrower chain issue

[mbarb54 8]

I have a 42" single stage snow thrower (Model 06-42ST04) attached to my 310-8. I posted a few days ago about a problem with the auger not turning when I engaged the PTO clutch. After removing the chain cover I was able to get a better look at the chain. The chain is stiff and links are locked up and it has no play. My guess is the chain is all rusted and/or gummed up inside even though there is no apparent rust on the surface. A couple questions.

 

(1) is the chain shot or can I remove it and soak some life back into it to reuse?

(2) I found the master link to remove the chain, but it looks tricky getting the chain put back on and rerouted. Any tips for getting the chain back on?

(3) I see Partstree sells a new one for $95.35. Anyone know of cheaper alternatives?

 

Help is much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Michael

Edited November 11, 2014 by mbarb54

[RMCIII 838]

Chain may be ok to use, if you can get it off. Then just soak it in a bath of penetrating oil for about 2 days..... You may have to work the links a little to help the penetrating oil get into the links. If you are able to do so, the chain should be ok to use. But I would personally still get an extra one as a back-up.

 

As for a place to get another 1.... TSC has the stock 40 link. just take that one and they will cut to link. You also may find something at Sohars if you have the part number.

 

Chain is no difficutl at all to take off or replace.

 

Rob

[Ed Kennell 35,961]

Chain may be ok to use, if you can get it off. Then just soak it in a bath of penetrating oil for about 2 days..... You may have to work the links a little to help the penetrating oil get into the links. If you are able to do so, the chain should be ok to use. But I would personally still get an extra one as a back-up.

 

As for a place to get another 1.... TSC has the stock 40 link. just take that one and they will cut to link. You also may find something at Sohars if you have the part number.

 

Chain is no difficutl at all to take off or replace.

 

Rob

 

                               Glad you found the problem Michael.    The chain is an easy fix...compared to new bearings or a bent auger.

 

You probably know this, but I find it helps to loosen the one chain tension sprocket when removing or installing the chain.

 

Looks like the SQUONK made scents again.  

[cheesegrader 433]

I don't know if they are as common in the south part of the state, 

but Fleet+Farm is the cheapest place for those kind of parts up north

#40 roller chain, the box I got was enough for two chains, about $20.

[mbarb54 8]

Thanks all for the input. I've since pulled the chain off and am soaking it in penetrating oil. The chain looks pretty bad, so I'm going to get another regardless of whether the old one comes back to life. Also found some other places on Internet that sell the new replacement chain as low as $80.00. I think I'll try either Fleet Farm or Tractor Supply as advised. Lesson learned on not taking proper care of the chain!

 

Now, if the snow will just hold off for a while yet. 

[RMCIII 838]

Cheese - Yeah, if you have a Farm & Cheap by your area. Would love to shop at F&F if I had one close.... Only Illinois, Wisconsin, and I guess up in Michigan by you... Great store actually.

 

Rob

[squonk 39,045]

Take a good look at those sprocket bearings! If that chain is like you said it was I bet those bearings aren't too far behind. I wouldn't even mess with that old chain. Replace it. If you don't you'll be fixing it in the middle of a snowstorm! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

Go by the length of the old chain when you cut the new one to length. Don't go by the number of links.  If you don't you may end up a link or two too short depending on how much the old chain is worn.

 

When you instal the retainer on the master link keep the round end towards the direction of travel. If installed with the U backwards they can easily come off.

 

Garry

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

I bought a 42" snowthrower this summer. Planning ahead I bought #40 chain at TSC and a new idler sprocket. The adjustment was fully used so I knew that there was a problem. I use a chain buster so I don't use the master Link. Turned out that the chain was stiff like yours plus streched almost a full link. The idler sprocket was gritty also. The outboard input shaft bearing is on the way out so I am going to replace that as well. Somehow the flanges were assemble wrong putting one on each side of the housing and didn't contain the bearing.

 

[doc724 924]

I am not so sure that I agree with the comment to make the new chain the same length as the old one.  I am a cyclist and I ride close to 10,000 miles each year.  This means I install new chains 3 times a year and I always count the links and make the new one the same number of links.  Chains stretch and (on a bicycle at least), you need an odd number of links to get the master link to work.  Bicycles have derailleurs which account for some of the chain stretch but if you make the new chain too short, the bike will not shift properly.  Fortunately, blowers only have to spin, but the chain adjustment is limited.  Also, if the chain (on your bicycle or blower) is stretched too much, you will wear out the auger and cogs.  For a bicycle, the stretch limit is 1 percent.  How do you know if you have worn out the cogs?  Put on the new chain and under load it will jump teeth.  How do I know this?  Not replacing soon enough resulted in me replacing a $300 cog set AND a $60 chain.  And you think tractor parts are expensive???

[RMCIII 838]

Doc - I was going to retract my statement...... Definately need to make sure the length is not "stretched" beyond what the idler sproket is able to adjust for. And then you want to have some room for "play" in the chain.

 

Rob

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

On mine, I counted 34 links. I made the new chain the same number of links although that may not be right after I change the bearing and install the flanges correctly. The adjustment had been at its limit. With the chain breaker I can adjust it very easily.

 

 

I am not so sure that I agree with the comment to make the new chain the same length as the old one.  I am a cyclist and I ride close to 10,000 miles each year.  This means I install new chains 3 times a year and I always count the links and make the new one the same number of links.  Chains stretch and (on a bicycle at least), you need an odd number of links to get the master link to work.  Bicycles have derailleurs which account for some of the chain stretch but if you make the new chain too short, the bike will not shift properly.  Fortunately, blowers only have to spin, but the chain adjustment is limited.  Also, if the chain (on your bicycle or blower) is stretched too much, you will wear out the auger and cogs.  For a bicycle, the stretch limit is 1 percent.  How do you know if you have worn out the cogs?  Put on the new chain and under load it will jump teeth.  How do I know this?  Not replacing soon enough resulted in me replacing a $300 cog set AND a $60 chain.  And you think tractor parts are expensive???

 

Don, in my bicycling days I used to put the chain in a pot with oil on the stove. The thought was warm oil would saturate better.  What are you using to lubricate your chains?

[Forest Road 594]

I'm with Doc. Wish I had his time to ride.

Also consider replacing the cogs on your blower. Given that the chain was rusted I would assume the bearings are in rough shape too.

The teeth should have a defind shape to them. If they are starting to get pointed with sharp peaks then they're shot.

On a typical blower you'll probably need to replace this stuff every 3-5 years. Don't do it and regret it at the worst possible time.

Good luck

Kevin

[mbarb54 8]

Pardon all my ignorance. This is my first adventure into snow thrower repair. There have been suggestions of checking and/or replacing the bearings. Is the recommendation all bearings or select ones. I see 4 different bearings on the parts manual I have for my model. Two are one either end of the auger and 2 are at either end of the drive shaft. I would assume the lower bearings would be more vulnerable due to their location. And on chain length, I assume if I bought OEM part, it would be the proper length? I found a cheap one. 

 

Michael

[can whlvr 991]

its a bit of challenge to do all the bearings,but well worth it,im doing my original thrower now,did it 4 years ago and it needed auger bearings after I left it out this year,they wre a bit gritty and as already stated it will break at the worst time

[mbarb54 8]

Conclusion. Found an OEM chain on ebay for $36 bucks. Was proper length and is now installed and working well. Would have gotten one at Farm Fleet for $12 but I didn't have a chain cutter and theirs cost $26. Was easier to order off ebay and have it shipped direct to home. The old chain did not come back to life after soaking in penetrating oil for 4 days. Throwing it away. As for bearings, keeping my fingers crossed I'll get through the winter. They seem to be ok right now. That'll be my project for next summer. 

Edited November 16, 2014 by mbarb54

[can whlvr 991]

I would not throw out that chain,it can be used on the front tires for traction

[mbarb54 8]

That's a good idea. I could use some traction in the front.  haven't tossed the chain yet, but I don't think it is long enough for both wheels. 

[cheesegrader 433]

When you get ths back together, run the blower for a few minutes, and RETENSION!

After your first good snow, DO IT AGAIN.

I have been amazed at how much a new chain can stretch, 

and you will be very unhappy if you throw it in the middle of a huge storm.

Don't ask how I learned this.

[RMCIII 838]

   He's not kidding! Especially if that first time you use it, you have some decent snow, you will need to reset the idler sproket becasue of how much the chain will stretch.

 

 

Rob