pacer 3,160 #1 Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) Got a C-175 from about 1980 with Sundstrand and the shifter is 'sticky/stiff'. Now I know this is a common problem on the automatics and I can, and have on my other tractors, corrected it many times with adjustment -- but, this one is different to me, because I've never seen this type of adjuster. Heres a pic... I'm thinking the pin/rod going through this contraption should be loose, not only to allow proper 'feel' when adjusting but also allow removal of that spring tensioner apparatus and the shift handle - but the pin is frozen solid. What vague description I can find in the manuals for adjusting it does little to affect the movement of the handle, having a 'sticky' feel which make for jerky starts. So -- anyway, my question is : does that 'pin' drive out of there? If it does and is frozen, is it likely that would affect being able to get smooth movement? You can see in the pic I have removed the ball that moves the tranny shift to see if the shifter still had the sticky feel and it does. I tried to drive the pin out and all it did was jump out of the socket on the side of the frame --- If that pin does need to be loose, (and I think it does) I dont see any way to get it out except to cut it in two some how. If I have to destroy it, how difficult is the mechanism to find? Probably used from one of you guys? Although if I can just cut the pin only and then get the mechanism off the pin I could probably make a replacement pin ... Need some thoughts from some one who has been in one of these... Edited November 8, 2014 by pacer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #2 Posted November 8, 2014 They are a real pain to disassemble once they get rusty/corroded/painted, etc. Here's the IPL: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The cam pivot rod (#13) is locked against rotation by the tab & bolt on the end. The woodruff key (#15) in the pin keeps the tapered friction cone (#11) from rotating. The friction collar (#12) has flats that engage in the matching hole on the side of the motion control lever assembly (#1) In order for the friction cone to function properly and be adjustable, the pivot rod and the inside bore of the cone must be clean. The cone should slide freely over the woodruff key/shaft. (use anti-seize during reassembly) The outside taper of the cone and the inside taper of the collar must be clean and smooth. In a perfect world (when this stuff was new), the tension could be adjusted by loosening the jam nut(s) (#7) and tightening the adjuster collar (#6) to apply more pressure on the spring.(#10). The increased pressure on the spring pushes the taper of the cone into the matching taper of the collar, resulting in more friction at the control lever. The parts are discontinued, so heat, penetrating oil, and patience is what you'll need to get it apart and still have useable pieces. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #3 Posted November 8, 2014 HOLY SMOKE!!! :eek: What a complicated mess! I had one similar on the brake - or clutch? shaft was stuck and I ended up cutting it with a cutoff wheel and even after I got it out of the frame I couldnt drive the pin out! Thanks for that view Terry, I looked and looked but all I found was the other type on top of the tranny, now thats a simple means of adjustment - the D is too. Can you give me a link to that exploded view? Anybody got one of these, I would want to have one on hand before I got something messed up. This tractor is my Cyclone leaf vacuum go to and this time of year I dont want it down for long. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #4 Posted November 8, 2014 to IPL at PartsTree. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
