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Fordiesel69

KT17 - Series 1, runs like crapola.

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Fordiesel69

The guy put a brand new genuine kohler coil on it, cleaned the carb and put new gasket, new spark plugs.  Nice fuel flow is getting to the carb.  Runs on one cylinder sometimes, and cuts in and out.  Eventually when cutting it stalls and does not restart.  It does not have a blown rod, and it does not knock.  Where should I investigate next.  I will be loading up tools and going over to attempt to get it running better.

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Desko

If its firing on both plugs and or plug wires id doubt its a bad valve seat but check compression. Those are the only things I can think of.

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boovuc

No#1 Do a compression test on both cylinders first. If you have good compression and both cylinders are not that far off between each other, go to No#2.

 

No#2 Look for a manifold leak. With it running, be careful and spray some starting fluid, (either), around the intake manifold. Before you do, I strongly suggest it is outdoors, away from any other flammable liquids or propane tanks, structures and of course, your upper body. Check your motor in pitch darkness to make sure you have no sparking or arks from the plug wires or boots before you spray it.

When you spray around the manifolds.........if you hear the engine rev up, you have a manifold leak. No manifold leak? Go to No#3.

 

No#3 Check the throttle shaft on the carburetor. If it has a lot of play in it, you will never get it to run correctly and all sorts of symptoms will appear and disappear. It will run real rich, then lean then rich again. It will fowl plugs! Depending on air temperature and how you adjusted the fuel mix, if you are constantly adjusting the high speed mix, look at that throttle shaft.

 

No#4 Check for a leak around the cylinder heads. Clean the engine up and run it. Use your fingers to feel for any emissions around the heads and cooling fins. It's real hard if it's leaking under the air cowlings. You may want to open that engine's cooling shroud up and look around if all else fails.

 

No#5 You can also run a hotter plug in the cyl that keeps shutting down on you. There is the possibility that the motor was running on one cylinder for a while and is full of carbon deposits.

 

If you can't figure it all out, I would open the top end up and do a top end rebuild. It is cheaper and in my opinion, isn't a half-a#@ thing to do. I did my KT17 Series I top end over about 20 years ago and it is still running fine!

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Pickle

Replace the ignition points and condenser, check the ignition points pushrod. Problem may be solved.

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km3h

I had the same problem with a K17 series 2 engine. It was kind of crazy because if you pulled the coil wire off the rear cylinder, it would still run on the front cylinder. Pull the wire from the front with the rear connected and it would die. Now comes the strange part. reverse the wires at the coil and then pull the rear wire and it would die. Pull the wire from the front and it would run.

I tested the coil and it was within specs. Scratched my head a bit and decided to bite the bullet and put a new coil in it. Bought a coil for a Harley Motorcycle put it on and it ran like a Banshee. Problem solved. Only thing I can figure is that the coil broke down but only under a load.

The Harley coil is an after market coil from Gorilla Motors. 3 volt Dual fire. Costs less that $35.00 delivered to my house.

Don't know if this is your problem but try switching the wires at the coil and then testing to see if the non working cylinder changes from front to rear and back again.

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JustinW.73

 Before you do, I strongly suggest it is outdoors, away from any other flammable liquids or propane tanks, structures and of course, your upper body. Check your motor in pitch darkness to make sure you have no sparking or arks from the plug wires or boots before you spray it.

 

upper body? can't forget about the lower body now do we? (not meant to sound weird) ;-)

Edited by JustinW.73

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boovuc

Hi Justin...................I'm old and don't use my lower body anymore!  :)

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