Flux Core Welding Wire

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Hey Folks

 

Last time I needed something welded (the screen for my MacKissic Shredder) was a disaster. The shop lost my item. The were honest and paid me for a new one minus their minimum shop charge I would have paid for the repair.

 

I have gotten away without welding for many years using nuts and bolts and patches etc, but I have considered learning to weld for a long time.

 

I have watched the Harbor Freight 85 amp flux core wire for some time. I has surprisingly good reviews for what it is. The consesus online is to buy tips and wire elsewhere, but that the welder is pretty good.

 

And every 2-4 years or so it is $88 with a coupon.I have clipped and thrown away coupons several times, not having the time, money, etc etc. Recently a ran across on ebay the bigger chinese brother to this welder and bought it - it puts out 120 amps and runs on a 20 am 120 volt outlet.

 

It arrived and all looks good, but I am still in the process of getting know quality wire, a helmet etc. Here are the questions I have

 

First question: For general purpose Flux Core welding what brand of wire would you recommend? I will initially buy 2Lbs or .030 and 2Lbs of .035. Generally speaking it seems people like Hobart or Lincoln. I'd love to know which of the others might be worth buying.

 

One more question. It appears the two most common alloys for FC welding are for general purpose and for hard facing. Has any one refaced mower blades? The alloys I am looking at are meant for super industrial applications and might be a great alternative to throwing out blades that have been sharpened to death.

 

Comments on either question please.

 

Rolf

 

PS no with regards to flux core versus regular MIG. The both have advantages and disadvantages so lets keep on topic.

 

[can whlvr 991]

I use Lincoln in my lincold mig,i recommend spending on a decent helmet,seeing what you are welding is half the battle,practice andsome research and you are on your way

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Yes, I am a cheapa$$. But since I got a cheapy welder I know it may pay to spend a bit more on wire and namebrand nozzles

 

Here are a few brands I have seen that I know nothing about (All are E71T-GS alloy unless otherwise noted):

 

Harris/Ten Gauge (brand, not size)

 

Harris/Dynashield (USA)

 

Radnor

 

Mountain (USA)

 

Blue Demon

 

INE (Italy)

 

Weldtool (USA)

 

Techniweld (USA)

 

Anchor

 

HTP (USA)

 

Washington Alloy (USA)

 

Any opinions on any of the above?

 

OK, here is the hardfacing wire I mentioned. Seems like it might work well on mowing blades!

 

55FC-O is a self-shielded, metal-core wire
that deposits a premium martensitic alloy
steel of H-12 tool steel composition. It has
excellent resistance to adhesive (metal-tometal)
wear. It also has good resistance to
abrasion and impact, and maintains its
hardness up to 1000°F. It is designed for
use as an overlay on carbon and low alloy
steels. Because of its high hardenability,
proper preheat may be required for crack-free
deposits, particularly on low alloy steels.
55FC-O is formulated to optimize
performance on small 110/220V
type wire welding machines.

Typical Applications
• Dredge parts
• Earth moving equipment
• Farm equipment

AWS Classification Hardfacing

Welding Current

DCEN - DCEP

Typical wire chemistry
(As Welded)
C 0.4
Mn 1
Si 0.4
Cr 5.8
Mo 1.5
W 1.4
Fe BAL

Typical Mechanical Properties
(As Welded on 1020 steel)
Hardness on 1 layer, Rc 47
Hardness on 2 layers, Rc 49
Hardness on 3 layers, Rc 53

Welding Positions

F,V,OH,H

Available Diameters
.035", .045" & 1/16"

Operating Range in Amps
.035" 80 - 120
.045" 120 - 150
1/16" 150 - 190

 

[shorts 182]

I don't think that the brand of wire is important, the metallurgy is what you need to look at, the E71T-GS specifies the alloy and strength/hardness of the wire, With that being said I usually take all of my welding supply business to my local welding supplier as I feel that although his prices are a little higher his advice and better quality inventory and accessory products are worth the extra $ upfront and save $ in the long run due to longer lasting abrasives and other consumables.

 

I think that trying to build up or hard face a lawnmower blade penny wise and pound foolish, The time and amount of material spent trying to weld up ma blade and then grind it back to proper dimensions, sharpness and balance would not be cost effective and I would also be concerned about the added weld being to hard and or brittle and failing under impact and becoming an unguided missle  moving at somewhere near the speed of sound (recommended blade tip speed)