Electro12WH 50 #1 Posted October 3, 2008 My B80's trans got water in it. Bad boot. How do I get all the moisture out before refilling it with gear lube? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #2 Posted October 3, 2008 Several of our fine members recommend filling with diesel or kerosene, then running it breifly and then draining it. Best of luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #3 Posted October 4, 2008 I'd drain the old oil, then pour a couple of quarts of kerosene or diesel through it to try and wash out some of the sludge. Then I would drain it again, this time refilling with engine oil. You can then drive the tractor around a bit. You want to get the trans reasonably warm, but dont overload it with the thin oil in there. Then drain it again, (while it's still warm) and refill with your gear lube. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #4 Posted October 4, 2008 I would do just what Mike just posted but when running the diesel in the trans, I'd block it up so the tires are off the ground and run it that way, just be careful and block it good, and when I put the motor oil in I also put a quart of ATF it cleans, and I over fill the trans with 3 quarts of oil while doing this, I think it helps get oil spread better in the trans, don't over fill when doing your final fill. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #5 Posted October 4, 2008 Oh ya now is a good time to change the axle seals, brake drum seal, and input seal, and don't forget the shifter boot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electro12WH 50 #6 Posted October 5, 2008 Thanks, folks! Good advise. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electro12WH 50 #7 Posted October 18, 2008 Well, I drained the trans... a pint of water and a lot of sludge. I pulled the first hub and the woodruff keyway was broke out. Also the bearing has a lot of sideplay. I'm going to have to rebuild the thing. How much is this going to cost?Would I be better off buying a used four speed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electro12WH 50 #8 Posted October 25, 2008 I got a price on the bearings for the Uni drive from my Toro dealer... $300. The inner axle bearings are $65 a piece. I guess I'm still looking for a 4 speed trans. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldandred 15 #9 Posted October 25, 2008 Last time i rebuilt one with all new bearing ex, the outer big bearing less than 100.00 I didnt use the bearing from toro I took my case and shafts to a place that sell noting but bearing they matched every thing up and away I went smillimng all the way home look on the net for one near you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #10 Posted October 25, 2008 I got a price on the bearings for the Uni drive from my Toro dealer... $300. The inner axle bearings are $65 a piece. I guess I'm still looking for a 4 speed trans. I've rebuilt a couple of these now. I havent found the ball bearings yet (except from Toro) and couldnt convince myself to pay $65 for them so reused the old ones. All the others are Torringtons, they have numbers stamped on their ends. I buy them from Motion Industries https://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp for $6 to $8 each. Oil seals I get from Napa, about $3 each. Last box I did I think I spent $50 on bearings. Get the gasket from Toro, I think about $10. Their not hard to do, a bit intimidating at first, but download the manual and have at it. Plenty of people here that can give you advice... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electro12WH 50 #11 Posted October 25, 2008 I would think that $50-75 is an acceptible price. I'll start pulling it apart and look for the numbers. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 655 #12 Posted October 25, 2008 I guess I need to do this to mine too.. I noticed there is now water in there, Id guess it came in thru the shift boot.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #13 Posted October 25, 2008 Its worth taking a look inside, it probably will be an easy (if somewhat messy) fix. You can buy another rear end for next to nothing, but unless you can get it locally it'll cost a ton for shipping, or for gas to go and get it. And then you dont know what you are getting either. Many of the members here (myself included) have spare transmissions tucked away, but I'll bet that 99% of them came off parts tractors that we aquired, and we have no idea whether the thing is any good or not. The Torrington bearings are a self contained "tube" containing needle rollers. The ones on the end of the shafts are closed one end - they're the ones that look like freeze plugs from the outside of the case. These are hard to read the numbers on so you might have to find them by OD, ID and length. From memory (!) they're a B-1212 and B-1612. The others are open both ends and have "m-XXXX" numbers on one end. Usually you can read the numbers OK on the ones inside the case. I finally spun up a set of aluminum bushes to remove and install them, but you can knock them in and out with suitably sized sockets. Take a look at the condition of the shafts where they run on the bearings, you can get away with a bit of pitting, but I have seen severe wear where the bearing has actually locked up and scored the shafts pretty badly. Let us know how it goes, and dont hesitate to ask questions! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
