Nathanielperz 150 #1 Posted June 28, 2014 Hey everyone I am working on restoring my Wheel Horse 1276 this summer and I wanted to get some tips from all the Wheel Horse pros. I started the restoration in the spring of this year and I started with the hood so that I can still use the rest of the tractor for things I need it for around the yard... The problem is that I started the paint removal in May and I'm still not done the hood yet... I have been using an old orbital sander that has no Velcro on the bottom (not my choice my dad wouldn't let me use his good one so he gave me the old one...) and so when I am sanding the pad flies off the sander and launches half way across my back yard ever 30 seconds... I have also been using a cordless drill with wire wheels and brushes... but at the rate I'm going the tractor will never get done... Please help me in any way that you can... are there any tools that I can use? are there any chemicals that will remove the paint but not hurt the metal or rust (the tractor is held together by rust and luck) IMPORTANT: I don't have the money or an air compressor big enough for a sand blaster and I don't know what else to do... I am just looking for tricks that you guys have picked up from your restorations and any tools or helpful items that will help me get the paint off the tractor faster. Thanks in advance, Nate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stratostar250 919 #3 Posted June 29, 2014 I've been thinking about setting up one of those too. I found a real good write up about it somewhere a couple months ago. If I can find the link to it, I'll post it here for you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stratostar250 919 #4 Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) As for the e-tank: This site is one that helped me understand the process- http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp This page describes the chemical science behind it- http://antique-engines.com/electrol-details.asp A search on google for "electrolysis rust removal" will provide you with lots of examples. There are youtube videos that walk you through the process also. This can be done on any scale, I used a 40(or so) gallon Rubbermaid tub but if your just doing small parts a 2 or 5 gallon bucket works fine. I've even seen one the size of a small pool! Here are links to two other sites that really helped me understand how it works and how to set it up. Just remember to be safe and set up the tank outside. The process releases hydrogen and oxygen, the same as the fuels that launch the space shuttle! http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm The four links in this post were very helpful for me, and give a LOT of really good and important info. I quoted them from this thread: Edited June 29, 2014 by stratostar250 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,963 #5 Posted June 29, 2014 Most of the paint used on old Wheel Horse tractors is easy to get off with most any liquid paint stripper. Just follow the instructions on the container, use outdoors, and use eye protection and gloves. Once you have removed the paint, the rust is much easier to attack with wire brushes and sandpaper, or an e-tank. Paint that is solid will not be affected by an e-tank, as the process requires that you have electrical contact through the liquid between the anode (the sacrificial steel) and cathode (the item you are removing rust from), and paint acts as an insulator. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
varosd 1,185 #6 Posted June 29, 2014 Bob is correct. good paint will not come off with the E-tank. Of course if there is rust under it... I use some paint stripper first, then the e-tank works great. make sure you use a Manual battery charger If you use a an Automatic charger it will shut off. If all you have is a Automatic charger, you can run it through a battery then to to the tank. the small nuts/bolts etc in a cup of vinegar method for a few days also works. I use old paint caps. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kudzu3 323 #7 Posted June 29, 2014 I discovered pretty quickly that if you have someone locally that does sand blasting, you'll come out much better if you have your parts sand blasted rather than fool with paint stripper. A good aircraft stripper is the only thing I found that would do a decent job and I found myself using so much, and taking so much time to do it, that it just made more sense to pay someone to sand blast. You probably should shop prices because I found that some are much more expensive than others. Good luck with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nathanielperz 150 #8 Posted June 29, 2014 OK thanks guys I will try the liquid paint stripper if I can't find a local sandblaster... I will probably make a Etank for all the rust... More tips are still welcome as well I need as much help as I can get! Thanks, Nate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,454 #9 Posted June 29, 2014 Just don't do what I did yesterday morning. I was doing a couple parts for the Suburban and started the tank up about 9:00am. About noon I went to check on the parts and :banghead: I had the polarity reversed. That will teach me for using unidentified wires.....or not paying attention.....or for just doing yet another stupid thing. I'm using old iron smoker grates for the anodes. I told my wife I was just cleaning them off........ . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kudzu3 323 #10 Posted June 29, 2014 Nathan, don't fool with the cheap stripper from the big orange or hardware stores , it just don't work. Get a good aircraft stripper from an auto parts such as NAPA. I hope it works for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #11 Posted June 29, 2014 I am a big fan of vinegar (white, not red) for stripping paint and getting rid of rust. Immerse in vinegar for 48 hrs, rinse and wire brush and then put in a container with water and baking soda. The vinegar makes the surface very active so it will re-rust very quickly. The baking soda will neutralize the effects of the vinegar. I think there are commercial coatings (phosphates) you can apply which will do the same things as the baking soda. Of course, electrolysis is much faster if you are the impatient type. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,189 #12 Posted June 30, 2014 I use chemical aircraft stripper. It eats it right off and then go to the Sander and blaster for the tough to reach areas. If using stripper, use in well ventilated area. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr. 856 170 #13 Posted June 30, 2014 I would have it blasted. It saves you time to do other things and will come out much better then any stripper. Strippers have there place and purpose but remember you best clean that part very well prior to painting or the stripper can reek havoc on your paint job. Sand will do the same but usually a few good rinses with a hose and a wipe down with some soapy water is all that is needed to get most blasted parts free of an sand residue. Blasting will also give your hood a better surface to paint to. Just my $0.02 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #14 Posted June 30, 2014 I would look into an angle grinder and sanding discs,you can get different wire brushes for it too,i would angle grind,then etank for the hard areas,but an angle grinder is a great tool to own,very handy and versatile,good for cutting steel, cutting bolt heads,just make sure to wear safty glasses and resperators Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brandonozz 168 #15 Posted June 30, 2014 I agree with Don about the angle grinder being a great tool but I would always use safety glasses under a face shield. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
