Jump to content
wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Need D series Front Spindle Assemblies?

Recommended Posts

wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Help.. I need a set of  front spindles for a D series for the front axle.
Can anyone let me know where I could buy them?

 

My  'new' '73 D-180 with Ark loader for about three weeks now and I love it but it needs new front spindles.

 

Before I owned it, someone had re-welded them less than well, :) and basically the tires are severely out of alignment vertically. The front axle is in excellent condition.

 

 I think the simplest fix would be to get a Left and Right Spindle Assembly even possibly  with wheels.

Does any one know where I could buy some?  They could OEM or aftermarket, but I need to replace them

Would any D-series of any year fit? or does it have to be a 1973?

 

Looking for some horse help :)!

 

Also once I conquer that challenge, I'd like to tighten up the 1/2  a steering wheel slop in the steering. I see there is a plate that hides what is really going on. For now though I need the spindles :)

 

Thanks for any guidance!

 

Best,

Jack

Edited by wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

3/4 or 1"??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wheelhorse-c-161-1979

3/4 or 1"??

To be honest, I have no clue. I bought the D-180 from w Ark Loader about a month ago. Fine working condition, but needs cleanup and improvements.

The one thing the guy had told me is that he had changed the front tire to some 'trailer wheels." Problem is the guy did some welding to accommodate the new tire. So the spindles have been messed with and the tires are no where near being vertically straight.   I just bought on ebay a new D series front axle so that i have an OEM one in case the guy drilled the old one when messing with the spindles.

So I don't know what it would have come with.  And I am currently looking to buy some replacement spindles that are made for the D-180 and will fit.  Were there two diameters? ¾ and 1"?

 

1973 D-180 Model# 10501 8   The serial# 945927

 

Thanks for help.

 

Jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Yes standard was 3/4" but a 1" was an option ...and really needed if you have a FEL. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Paul,

Does the front axle change if it's a 1" vs ¾" spindle ? Or are they the same?

 

Thanks!

Jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
"D"- Man

First, if your tractor is a 1973 it is not a D-180, if it is a D-180 it is a 1974 (or later) if it is a 1973 it is an 18 Automatic.  Second, the front axle is different for the 1" spindles than for the 3/4" spindles.  The axle for the 1" spindles had a larger O.D. at the area where the spindle bore is.  Third, the Model # 10501 could this be 1-0601 ?  If so, your rear tires (assuming they are original) would be 27 x 9.5 - 15 Turf-Savers.  This consequently would indicate that you have an 18 Automatic.  Mark. (P.S. Someone may correct me if I am wrong.)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Hi,

Thanks for setting me straight on the naming and IDing of the tractor.. I thought that d-180 / auto 18 are thrown around interchangeably but you are absolutely correct.  Upon further cleaning and magnification, the model is indeed a 10601, Making it 1973 D series 18hp Auto.  Not a quite as catchy as D180, but hey I have and it's great. Now it does need some new front spindles. So are you telling me they are then 1"and not ¾" ?

 

I just bought but don't have yet  (as a precaution) what is claimed to be a D-180 front axle. Therefore, it wouldn't fit as it would be a ¾".

 

So now I'm back to my bottom line, corrected appropriately,  I am in search of front wheel spindles for a 1973 auto 18.  Anybody have a pair willing to sell, or anyone able to tell me where to buy some oem or aftermarket?

 

btw I totally get calling things by their correct names. It drives me nuts when people  call a gun magazine a 'clip'. Semi autos have 'magazines'. A few guns like the Garand have a 'clip' :)

 

Thanks!

 

Jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

You really need to measure the spindles on the tractor before you buy anything.  1" spindles were an option on D-series tractors, i do not know for sure if they were an option on an 18 automatic.  In any event if it is being used as a loader tractor someone may have swapped out the front axle and spindles at some point so until you measure no one can be sure what size you need.

 

 

Incidentally an M-1 Garand is a weapon or rifle not a gun...at least in the Army :)

Edited by pfrederi
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Hodge71

Jack,

 

I still don't think you're getting it. 18 automatics had both 3/4 inch and 1 inch spindles depending on which option box was checked when ordered. The axles do not interchange. If you have 3/4 inch axles/spindles you will need to find complete 1" axle/spindle setup from a D-180 or D-200. Heres where it gets confusing again....both had 3/4 or 1 inch axles up to 1976 or 77 ( the year they changed to all 1 inch) depending on which box was checked. Just because you purchased a D-180 axle...it means nothing unless it came off a 1977 or later and it had 1 inch axles from the factory. So your new axle is useless unless you're lucky. You will almost never find OEM unless someone has them laying on a shelf since the 70's as almost everything for these big red guys are NLA from Toro. Aftermarket is a pipe dream as far as Im concerned, this isn't a 2 year old $10,000 green and yellow plastic tractor, they're 40 year old machines , nobody but our little group here supports much..... Used is your only option. Now if you have a machine shop close to you, you may be able to bore your front axle out and bush it to fit 1" spindles, but beware with a loader tractor you will have made the axle weaker then, as the 1" axles had more beef in the spindle area. Also worth mentioning is the fact that you will need new front wheels and wheel bearings. I have wheels but the bearings for them are totally whacked out price wise. You can get them from Toro for $82 each and you will need 4..I crossed them over and found them for $65 each but multiplied by 4 you will still be spending close to $300 just for front bearings. Then you will need wheels, if you're lucky 50 bucks each, then new 4 or 6 ply tires for loader use. 2 ply fronts can't carry the load of a loader with a full bucket and will fail. Im just letting you know of the costs of your ideas. If you have skill and are resourceful you can get away with a couple 2 -3 hundred bucks to get set up, if you're the type of person that buys everything done already,  get ready for close to a grand by the time you're done.  Good luck to ya

Edited by hodge71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

520 heavy duty 1" spindle vs D series 1"  (520 is on the left)

 

 

post-1023-0-77217100-1396530640_thumb.jp

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Hi prfredri, Thanks for the comparison and taking the time to take the pic. Mine are definitely on the right. Now I'll take a closer look to see if 1" or ¾" as Jeff explained above.

 

Oh and yes re Garand, yes you are correct. NRA likes to call them firearms:)  Anything can be used as a weapon, including those dreaded red assault axles from the 70s :)

Thanks again!

Jack

Edited by wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer

My 75 D-180 came with several attachments that WH offered except a FEL and it had 3/4" spindles. Over the years the right side got scored from a bad bearing, and I wanted to add the much beefier 1" so for several years I watched for a replacement set and finally Joes Outdoor (thank goodness for Joe!!) offered a set at his usual very reasonable price and I ordered it up. The I" set-up has to be a unit to change over, everything is now 1" - the axle, the spindle bore and the center axle pin.

 

You will just have to start a concentrated search for a used set-up (hopefully Joes will get another - maybe they will put you on a watch list??) I recently did a 1054 build and found the spindles on it are rare as hens teeth and I had to do some creative rebuilding.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bmsgaffer

I would say you will jsut have to keep a watch out for used ones from Joe's and place an ad in the "wanted" section here.

 

Since these tractors are hard to find parts for, you may want to just look for a parts tractor. Another 18 auto that you will be able to pull from. There was one at a reasonable price around here on CL for a loooong time but someone finally swept it up.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wheelhorse-c-161-1979

Brandon,  Thanks for compass on where start looking!

I'll do just that.:)

 

Best,

Jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

I don't have a D but was wondering if anyone has used the 1" trailer hubs on a 1" spindle? Is the spindle long enough?

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer

Thats a good question Garry - if I recall correctly the D wheel spindle is 4" and the couple trailer spindles I've seen are 4 1/4" (if I read the dims correctly!) So a fella would sure want to verify that measurement.

 

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Truck-Trailer/Trailer-Components/Spindles-Wheel-Hubs/

 

I made up my own 1" spindles and used 5.70x8 trailer tires and rim - course I've got a lathe and mill and it would be somewhat difficult to do that without those...

 

By the way that square configuration didnt work, I had to go ahead and make them round to fit in the trailer rim...

post-9681-0-43299200-1396641230_thumb.jp

Edited by pacer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jolopicus

Hey Guys. I know it's later in the conversation, but I've had surprisingly good luck with a couple of things in this realm. First, sorry for not having picts at the moment, will try to document and contribute as a good man should. I've got an 18 auto, with the 3/4" spindles. the spindle's weren't turning nicely, of course with a custom loader, ark-ish, it broke the steering thing after the steering gearbox. So, too much tension in the steering system with some heavy soil in the bucket. SO, to Axman surplus and a few other places around minneapolis/st. paul. I got thrust washers, 3/4" with two hardened washers on the top and bottom. B/c the axle's were worn from rough bolts used instead of proper cotter pins, I milled them down a bit so that adding the thrust and hardened washers still allowed the spindle to pop through. I then used what looks like a mess, but is actually pretty good. Norhtern tool 1" spindle, with a 3/4 to 1" bushing pressed into both bearings. Now you're right, it is not abit longer than the shaft allows, but I am a believer in the power of compression. I added a 1"x3/4" steel spacer to the end, and locked it in with a grade 8 bolt and a washer. works like a charm. the thrust washers, and 4 bolt spindle makes that thing turn and move perfectly...
So here's my question: Are there any other heavier spindles that might work? The rest of the machine can handle all the weight, but those spindles are the weak part.
Good luck gents, and again, in time i'll get some good picts uploaded. promise.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Trouty56

Hey Guys. I know it's later in the conversation, but I've had surprisingly good luck with a couple of things in this realm. First, sorry for not having picts at the moment, will try to document and contribute as a good man should. I've got an 18 auto, with the 3/4" spindles. the spindle's weren't turning nicely, of course with a custom loader, ark-ish, it broke the steering thing after the steering gearbox. So, too much tension in the steering system with some heavy soil in the bucket. SO, to Axman surplus and a few other places around minneapolis/st. paul. I got thrust washers, 3/4" with two hardened washers on the top and bottom. B/c the axle's were worn from rough bolts used instead of proper cotter pins, I milled them down a bit so that adding the thrust and hardened washers still allowed the spindle to pop through. I then used what looks like a mess, but is actually pretty good. Norhtern tool 1" spindle, with a 3/4 to 1" bushing pressed into both bearings. Now you're right, it is not abit longer than the shaft allows, but I am a believer in the power of compression. I added a 1"x3/4" steel spacer to the end, and locked it in with a grade 8 bolt and a washer. works like a charm. the thrust washers, and 4 bolt spindle makes that thing turn and move perfectly...
So here's my question: Are there any other heavier spindles that might work? The rest of the machine can handle all the weight, but those spindles are the weak part.
Good luck gents, and again, in time i'll get some good picts uploaded. promise.  

pictures would be helpful....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
alswagg

On my front loader / backhoe I have the 1" spindles. Converted the hubs to taper roller bearing, very easy to do by the way, and power assist steering. Everything works great.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Trouty56

On my front loader / backhoe I have the 1" spindles. Converted the hubs to taper roller bearing, very easy to do by the way, and power assist steering. Everything works great.  

Again....pics would be helpful....like to see the power steering mod....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • trolleybelle
      By trolleybelle
      Hello all, new to the forums here and relatively new to Wheel Horse.  I purchased 310-8 (1989 I believe) from the daughter of its original owner last year and it came with a 42" rear discharge deck.  In the past couple weeks I've been having some very loud vibration noises coming from.  I removed the deck and found a lot of rub marks where the belt was hitting the deck but couldn't figure out why that was the case as the belt was nice and tight.  My buddy who owns and works on wheel horses took a look at it and discovered cracking in the steel around the center spindle and theorized the spindle was oscillating up and down causing the belt to vibrate and rub on the deck.  He's going to weld the deck up but told me I should source some new spindles as 2 of mine are really deteriorated.  
       
      So, short story long, does anyone know of a source for new spindles?   What price can I expect to pay?  I found a couple kits that have square bases but mine are round and I don't want to buy something that's not going to fit.  Just looking for advice, thank you in advance!
    • drewd
      By drewd
      Does anyone know where I can buy new spindle housings or new spindle assemblies for this mower?  36"deck# 05-36XR01-11097; 9290. I've been working on the deck for over a year (time off for rotator cuff surgery).  I started on this again when I noticed two spindles housings had been damaged.  They are aluminum and as the deck is in great shape I would like to go with spindles in good shape as well.
      Thanks! 
    • Steiny
      By Steiny
      Will a 265h front axle spindles fit on a 312-8 
       
       
       
    • Sarge
      By Sarge
      Ok , been asked a lot of questions about how I rebuild front axles - unless they are physically broken no axle is really past the wear point of being rebuildable .
       
      I'm starting with an early D series front axle and upgrading to a later model D series 1" spindle type with the heavier casting . Since I could never find any pics of a comparison - here we go....
       

       
       
      If you look closely - there is an obvious difference in the castings at the spindle end - the later model axles were thicker and larger diameter to accept the heavy duty 1" spindles. Later model (post '75 , I believe).
       

       
       
      This photo really shows the obvious difference in diameter - early models were much smaller and a thinner casting for the early 3/4" only spindles . Need to find someone with a tape measure and one of the oddball early D-200 1" spindle equipped tractors to find out if those were a thin casting or the thicker type .
      The machined relief is for the roller thrust bearings that were originally used - if you ever buy a D or I believe the 520's , this is the first thing to check as many were never properly greased and destroyed that bearing . This can really wreck an expensive spindle and make it more difficult to rebuild the axle casting itself . I will be re-machining these reliefs to mimic the factory design to keep dirt out and retain the grease inside the bearing .

       
       
      Early castings , at least on this 18 Auto or D-180 that I have (missing the stupid id tag completely) measures roughly 1-1/2" outside ...

       
      Later model upgraded casting is a whole different animal - there are major differences in how they were cast and not just at the spindle ends . Later models were 1-3/4" on the outside .

       
       
      Since I've never seen a new old stock replacement I'm not certain as to the original finish quality of the machining on these things - it is obvious that over time dirt has entered and a lack of proper grease results in the bores being worn badly - some are literally egg-shaped , especially tractors from the late 60's with high hours and heavy use . Snowblowers and other heavy front implements of course accelerate this wear issue - I'm out to cure that and make the unit more serviceable .
       
      The biggest , #1 problem with these is how they are greased . I've bought and sold tractors for years and had some that had huge grease balls around the spindles , inside the wheels and all over the front end . At least they were trying but the wear is almost no different than one that was seriously neglected . With the weight on the spindle , the grease is forced upward and exits at the E-clip at the top , never lubricating the bottom where it rides on the spindle base for the steering arm .
       
      The correct way to grease these things is to lift the tractor BY THE FRAME , NOT THE AXLE ITSELF . Also , do not lift it by the front mule quick attach - you will bend the cross rod for the latch and destroy it . Best way is to use a block on the frame itself or make a spreader to fit the jack , maybe I can take the time to get pics to show better ways to pick these things up since they aren't exactly lightweight ...lol .
       
      No make or brand was exempt from this issue , they all did it . The problem becomes parts availability - there are only so many parts left and finding good spindles and axles is becoming a serious problem . Some brands aren't too bad (such as the green ones) since they still support most of their older models . Unfortunately for us - Toro has chosen to drop these parts and stock is quite limited . I got really lucky and a parts dealer friend had a pair of NOS 1" D series spindles , one of the last pair to exist to my knowledge . Those are getting blueprinted and angles mapped for later - I may tackle making new ones in both the 3/4" and 1" versions . I believe with a little engineering the earlier models made in the 60's could use a sort of generic spindle since there little difference in the many models - it was mostly down to the axle's angles and width .
       
      My D will be upgraded to heim joints for the steering . Many of the tie rod and drag link ends are NLA and finding steering arms that don't have the tapered holes wallowed out is getting pretty tough . The low angle taper on those automotive style ends allows them to work loose despite having fine thread castle nuts and cotters - the force required to turn the wheels due to the above mentioned lubrication issues , combined with a gear reduction Ross type steering box makes the holes in the arms wear - I've seen 4 of these spindles on different D's all worn the same way with the tapered factory holes oval in shape and the shanks on the rod ends could be easily turned with a wrench, which should not be possible .Converting to heims is not too hard and less expensive in the long run - the only issue being the left hand threaded rod ends at the steering bell crank (or idler arm) . Since it sits so close to the underside of the frame and being tight quarters we may have to resort to using a reduced size heim joint which are easily obtained if you know the part number systems . I have a NOS pair of factory rod ends (ball joints in the parts manual) so this one won't be getting this upgrade for now .
       
      The factory bell crank is subject to wear like everything else . It's buried up under the engine and I suspect most were neglected being so hidden . Inside is a steel bushing riding on the cast iron bore of the bell crank . The retaining bolt , bushing and iron casting all get worn - which results in sloppy steering . On a D that's a real problem since their turning radius is huge to begin with . I've modified mine slightly by moving the turning arc point of the drag link inward by 3/8" - when it's done I'll test and measure the turning radius to see how much it helped and if there is any interference or other issues . Models with working turning brakes in either the stock D-200 or kit-equipped smaller models of course helped when in dirt or grass - just never use those on pavement or hard surfaces since it can really bind things up and possibly cause rear axle damage . It's all mentioned in the manual and instructions for the kits to add turning brakes .
       
      Not sure yet if I'll just make a separate thread on the steering parts or include them here - plenty of info to make a long thread on the cast iron axle alone . Depending upon how well it works out I may offer this as another service to the long list of other parts I build or rebuild currently . Guy with a lathe , far too many tools and a TIG welder must stay busy during the long winters....lol .
      So far, it hasn't been a cheap venture - tooling bits and parts totals are well over $400 and climbing - haven't really started any machine work on the axle as of yet since I'm still waiting on one tooling bit . I will try to document what is used in the rebuild and a parts list as well as sources . All bushings and bearings used will be off the shelf parts so it's nothing that isn't easily available . Lathe work my be required to avoid using custom ordered parts and their associated extra costs .
       
      Anyhow , more to follow....
       
      Sarge
       
      Going forward
    • ChaplainManny
      By ChaplainManny
      Does anyone know how many different models of spindle assemblies WH had for its decks?
      Is the number large like 50-100, or a smaller number like 10-20?
      Is there a particular model of spindle assembly that was widely used on several different deck models?
      Thank you for your time. 
      Chaplain R.J. Manny Higgins 
×
×
  • Create New...