It runs only with starter engaged

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Those wires have been bypassed by the original owner.

[rmaynard 14,932]

...if I turn the key and hold it with my fingers pegged all the way it stays running...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is this not the original problem?

 

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Bob can I send you a video by cell phone

[Hodge71 663]

Im totally and completely lost here Bill. You say it starts and runs for an few seconds and shuts off. Then you say it keeps running if you hold the key on. You shouldn't be holding the key for a few seconds after its running. So is the starter engaged while its running? Then you leave the key go and the starter it disengages and it shuts off? Or does the starter engage and the tractor starts and runs and then shuts off after a few seconds but if you hold the key on the starter is disengaged but the engine remains running? Are you 100% positive you wired it correctly?  Depending on your answers the the previous questions it sounds like it wired wrong. I may be wrong but you have a 20 year journeyman electrician lost …..Feel like I'm   here but what you're saying makes no sense. It works, it doesn't work, it runs…no wait now it shuts off….. Please help us, so we can help you. These tractors are not rocket science…. There's  basically 4 wires that do everything including lights….Step back regain your composure and look at things again with a fresh head. You sound very frustrated and you can't do anything correctly like that

Edited March 3, 2014 by hodge71

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

wiring I want to give up.

Edited March 3, 2014 by WHEEL HORSE BILL

[Hodge71 663]

Okay…If thats how you feel…. its not the tractors fault you're having these issues…good luck

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

OK, I turn the key and the engine starts but as soon as I let go of the key the tractor shuts off.  The starter engaged makes the motor run if I let go of the key the starter will disengage and shut off the engine.  I know it sounds confusing but I have tried everything! 

[rmaynard 14,932]

I'm going to ask you one more time, do you have a multimeter?

[Hodge71 663]

I'm going to ask you one more time, do you have a multimeter?

 

Exactly what he just asked… If you don't…you need one and a knowledge of how to use one. Its the only thing that will help you fix this issue

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

I don't have one all I have is a test light. I guess I should invest in one.

Edited March 3, 2014 by WHEEL HORSE BILL

[rmaynard 14,932]

How have you been checking the wiring without a meter? Are you using a test light?

A visual check of a wire will only reveal if it is physically there. It will not check to be sure that it is good.

[chazm 412]

Well ...I'll throw in my  ...  naw... it won't help the cause

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

I just retraced every wire visually no test

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

Double check the seat switch bypass and make sure that connection is good and not just looks good. That connection should power the ignition coil in the run key position. Now turn the key switch to the run position. If the starter engages in the run position the wiring is reversed at the pto switch or is that bypassed also?

 

If the pto switch is still in the circuit apply the pto switch and try again.

 

Let us know what happens and when.

 

Garry

[rmaynard 14,932]

Unless you get an inexpensive meter or a 12 volt test light, it is next to impossible to help you.

 

The wire that connects to the "I" terminal on the ignition switch, should go directly to the (+) terminal of the ignition coil. If you say that you have physically checked to be sure that it does, then you have a bad wire or a bad splice in that wire, bad connector on the end of the wire, or a bad ignition switch.

 

A meter or a test light would be able to prove that.

[rmaynard 14,932]

Go to Walmart or some other store and pick up either a cheap meter  or a test light

 

You should be able to spend about $10.00 on a meter or $5.00 on a light. Once you have one of them in hand, it will be a lot easier for us to help you trace the circuits to see where your problem is.

[WH nut 553]

Ok lets short cut this whole issue. Try this. Run a jumper wire from battery plus to the + side of ignition coil and crank the motor. Does it Crank  Yes or No, Does it Crank but no start and run Yes or No. Does it Crank and run yes or no

 

 

When you have the answers to these question we can proceed. .

Edited March 4, 2014 by WH nut

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Rmaynard i do have a test light if that helps us.I just came inside but the black wire does go from I on the switch to the + on the coil.

[WH nut 553]

Rmaynard i do have a test light if that helps us.I just came inside but the black wire does go from I on the switch to the + on the coil.

With the switch in the run position is there power to the + side of the coil?

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Where do I attach the clip from the test light thing.positive side of the battery right.

Edited March 4, 2014 by WHEEL HORSE BILL

[WH nut 553]

Where do I attach the clip from the test light thing.

To any good ground, Battery - works real good

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

okay I put the clip on the negative post to the battery. Then I turn the key to the starting point and yes I do have power to the positive on the coil

[WH nut 553]

okay I put the clip on the negative post to the battery. Then I turn the key to the starting point and yes I do have power to the positive on the coil

NO, to the run position!

okay I put the clip on the negative post to the battery. Then I turn the key to the starting point and yes I do have power to the positive on the coil

NO, to the run position!

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Ok the light is not lit.

[WH nut 553]

Ok the light is not lit.

Ok, no go back a page and follow the wire diagram backwards to find the break.  Or you can short cut again and probe the back of the ignition switch and see it the I terminal has power when in the run position

 

But you say you have changed the switch. You need to make sure you have the right one, or use the original switch.