Desko 552 #1 Posted January 11, 2014 Well as you can tell from the title I need help from you fellow Red Square members. Well the problem is the snap ring for the axle broke on the left side. This will be my first 8 speed I tear into. I have the hub off on the left side but the right is stuck on there I've heated it up and no movement at all. The tractor is an 1983 workhorse GT-1142 so what model tranny is in this tractor and does anyone have a repair manual for it. Thanks,Ryan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,237 #2 Posted January 11, 2014 The GT-1142 tractor has the WH # 5086 transmission. It is a 4 pinion differential with 1" axles and is in Section V of this manual. http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Transmissions/492-4004.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #3 Posted January 11, 2014 Ok and how about some tips of when I tear into it what do I have to watch for Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,237 #4 Posted January 11, 2014 The manual has step by step instructions for getting the trans off the tractor...as well as how to open up the trans case and rebuilding the trans. Have the shallow side of the trans on the bottom and remove the brake shaft side. You can then pull out the differential, unbolt the housing, open it up, find the old snap ring and pieces, put on new snap ring (the snap ring has a sharp side and a rounded side)...I believe the sharp side goes toward the inside of the differential. Bolt back up the differential housing, place back in the case (with the nuts of the housing bolts up), replace case half and bolt together. Boomshakalaka... If the trans needs cleaning out and new seals...now is the time. Here are some good threads with pictures of tearing into an 8 speed... Here is a thread with some videos...though not your trans...they are just about the same inside. This one does not have the hi/low gearing... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #5 Posted January 11, 2014 All the bearings are good I need 2 axle seals that I have already ordered. The clip didn't break which was strange. I will put the diff back together tomorrow after I get the hub pressed off and put it all back together when I get the gasket and seals. Thanks for all the links and help wish I could post pictures but don't know how to do that from my phone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,237 #6 Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) I would not use the old clip. Why do think it came apart?? Just thinking...if you have it apart...now is the time to take a good look and make sure everything is OK. Also, make sure you kind of test the differential when you put it back together...the axles should turn freely in opposite directions by hand. Can't tell you how many times I've heard of someone putting a trans back in and having to take it back out because something was not right. Good practice, but not what you want to do. Edited January 11, 2014 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #7 Posted January 12, 2014 I couldn't get a right side hub off on a rebuild a few years ago so I built a homemade puller,its just a piece of angle iron with a nut welded to it and 5 holes that correspond to the bolt pattern an the hub,it works great,and allways gets the hub off without damage 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #8 Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) I would not use the old clip. Why do think it came apart?? Just thinking...if you have it apart...now is the time to take a good look and make sure everything is OK. Also, make sure you kind of test the differential when you put it back together...the axles should turn freely in opposite directions by hand. Can't tell you how many times I've heard of someone putting a trans back in and having to take it back out because something was not right. Good practice, but not what you want to do. What would the part number on the snap ring be from Toro. Edited January 12, 2014 by Desko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #9 Posted January 12, 2014 Old number is 7939 - active number is 32151-36 Buy two & replace both. Expand them only enough to get them on the axles - do not stretch them more than necessary! I also suggest purchasing four of the 108881 nuts for the differential through bolts. If you don't install new nuts on the differential bolts, at least prep them correctly and apply thread locker during reassembly. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #10 Posted January 12, 2014 I was just going to upgrade the bolts to grade 8 and use lock nuts for reassurance will this work. And will order the parts from Toro Monday. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #11 Posted January 13, 2014 Ohh and forgot to ask but what is the transaxle case gasket part number. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,237 #12 Posted January 13, 2014 #3912 for the gasket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #13 Posted January 13, 2014 Thanks got the parts on order 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #14 Posted January 15, 2014 My final question on this thread when you put the shifter back in should the dog point screw align with the roll pin hole or be a little of set to the side because I can't figure it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #15 Posted January 15, 2014 there should be a hole in the round sleeve that it goes in,when you put the shifter in the right position you will see the location of the hole for the set screw Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #16 Posted January 16, 2014 I see where it screws in but not where it goes on the shifter its self its all flush except for where the roll pin goes through is this only making sense to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #17 Posted January 16, 2014 The end of the set screw goes into the same hole in the shifter pivot ball as the roll pin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #18 Posted January 16, 2014 Ok that's what I was thinking because the rool pin on mine broke broke and put a longer one in cut it down to size and cleaned it up so I didn't know where it went. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #19 Posted January 16, 2014 The roll pin has to be a shorter than the diameter of the pivot ball by about 1/8" to 3/16" - so the set screw has room to enter the hole on the "front" side. Drive the roll pin in so the end opposite the set screw is flush with the pivot ball. I weld the pivot ball to the shifter (using the roll pin only for proper alignment) - something Wheel Horse should have done from the start. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #20 Posted January 16, 2014 So just cut the roll pin down a little more and it will solve the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,237 #21 Posted January 16, 2014 Yes...flush with the back of the ball and inset by 1/8 to 3/16 in the front...the dog point goes into this hole. Snug up the dog point set screw until the shifter is tight in the hole...back off the set screw about 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut. OK??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #22 Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) Ok it was a rookie mistake for not taking pictures when I tore it down. :) Edited January 16, 2014 by Desko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,512 #23 Posted January 16, 2014 Very few parts lists show the 933168 roll pin described as being 5/32" x 13/16". This has been replaced by 32121-114 spirol pin. Now which is it - a roll pin or a spirol pin? I can't remember. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
