Kelly 1,028 #1 Posted September 6, 2008 I asked in the engine section, but got no replie, so I will try here, Does anyone know the size of the PTO end of the crank on the H60 that came on the 603's or any of the early Tec powered tractors? how long and diam.? Thanks Kelly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #2 Posted September 6, 2008 I asked in the engine section, but got no replie, so I will try here, Does anyone know the size of the PTO end of the crank on the H60 that came on the 603's or any of the early Tec powered tractors? how long and diam.? Thanks Kelly Sorry Kelly, didnt see this one in the engine section. My 502 (H55) and 63 LR (H60) both have 1" diameter shafts, about 2 7/8" from the outer face of the seal to the end of the shaft. Both have a keyway, but I didnt measure it - let me know if you want dimensions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #3 Posted September 6, 2008 That's what I thought, it would be 1" I may still buy the engine and swap cranks, it's new and less than $100, I can't buy the rebuild kit and machine work for that. I only have one Tec. powered small block tractor 656, and it is 1" :USA: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #4 Posted September 6, 2008 Now I've read your other thread and realise what you are trying to do... I may be doing the same thing - I have an HH60 in pieces that I may put in the Lawn Ranger. Problem is the crank diameter on the PTO end is wrong for the pulley! Here's some pictures the bigger shaft is H60, the other (with the ball bearing) is HH. I am wondering if I can use the HH block with the H crank. They do look the same except one (dont remember which off hand) is crossdrilled on the pin. I havent decided if this matters or not. I dont know if there was a pulley made with a 3/4 inch bore. (TT should chime in here with a part #!!) I wondered about bushing my 1" pulley down to 3/4", but there isnt much meat to allow for the keyways. For sh1ts and grins here is some pictures of the blocks - the white block is the H60, red is HH60. My HH is not drilled for a starter (not that this matters to you Kelly) No provision for a fuel pump. EDIT: Apparently my HH came out of a 654 - that may help in trying to find a pulley. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #5 Posted September 6, 2008 Had an idea in the middle of the night, of how to make a bush to adapt a 1" diameter pulley to a 3/4" shaft.... The problem is that the wall thickness of this bush is only 1/8", which is not thick enough to support the two keyways - an internal one for the shaft, and an external one for the pully. I think you could make the bush, then mill a 1/4"slot right through it (lengthwise), leaving 1/4" of material each end. McMaster Carr sells Keystock 1/4 X 3/8 (P/N 98491A138) from which you make a key to suit this slot. Assemble this on the shaft and fit the pulley. The key sits in the keyway on the shaft, right through the bush, and into the keyway in the pulley. The Key is about 1/2" shorter than standard, but its still about 2 inches long. I think that would be plenty, especially on a tractor that wont be working that hard. (The Keys on the rear hubs are only about an inch long, and they seem to live ok) Hope this makes sense... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #6 Posted September 6, 2008 I was thinking about the samething, this tractor will never see anything other than a show, so no stress on the key, i see no use in working a hard to find 603 when I have a fleet of C-'s that can do anything I need them too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
perry 82 #7 Posted September 6, 2008 im still kicking around for a 2 1/2 pulley to fit my ranger engine i put on the 551. my 5.5hp has a 3/4 shaft and the 6hp lawn ranger engine has 1" shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
