illinilefttackle 399 #1 Posted January 10, 2014 Hi guys- WELL- Today the ole horse let me down for the very first time-Grandson got all the cars moved so we could plow the driveway etc-and wouldn't you know- the Horse wouldnt start. It was cranking slow so I put a charger on it set to "boost"- it starting turning over better-then "NOTHING" No crank-no power at the coil. I wiggled a few things-but with todays wind chill- The ole Illini didn't last long at figuring this out- SO- I jumped power to the coil-WAHLA-it cranked and started. Because I knew the coil had a resistor in it-I let it go and plowed everything. Just removed Jumper to stop-no charging while running-but everything else worked. Has this happened to any of you? As cold as it is in my garage, I cant diagnose this right away. I guess looking for a few ideas- Thanks if you can help-Al PS_the only safety switch that is not unhooked is the PTO one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #2 Posted January 10, 2014 Start checking wires. If it has a amp gauge make sure there is power going through it, that feeds the ign switch from the battery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #3 Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) Thanks- I think you are right-no juice going to the switch- I had a wiring diagram for the C-125A , but now I can't find it- Anybody got one handy?---Thanks-Al Edited January 10, 2014 by illinilefttackle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 19,683 #4 Posted January 10, 2014 Did ya look in the manuals section here on Redsquare for a wiring diagram? We have piles of em. Heres one for a 1981 machine. dont know what year yours is but I bet the Black hoods are all about the same. Mike.............. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,950 #5 Posted January 10, 2014 First of all, if the battery is discharged, and allowed to freeze, it may be history, but even with a bad battery and a battery booster, the engine should start. Number one on the list of things to check is all of your ground connections. Battery to frame, frame to engine cradle. Then make sure that all safety interlocks are operational. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #6 Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) Thanks Mike- I didn't look for one-I downloaded all the parts Maynard- I think the battery is toast- I agree on the grounds- I'm betting that something, wire, connector, etc could not stand the big amps that I used to start it- broke down due to load. Its getting warmer here today-so I can get a look at it-couldn't sleep last nite- you know how it is-can't stand something of mine that doesn't work-Al Quick look at diagram shows a 25 amp fuse from solenoid + post thru ammeter to switch-1st thing I'll check! Edited January 10, 2014 by illinilefttackle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Road-Track 39 #7 Posted January 11, 2014 Any luck? You need to remember the battery voltage goes through the voltage regulator before the ammeter fuse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #8 Posted January 11, 2014 Any luck? You need to remember the battery voltage goes through the voltage regulator before the ammeter fuse. Thanks for your imput- Not much progress-I'm having one of my "wobbly" spells-can't do much till it settles down-I will keep you posted-Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #9 Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) 39 Degrees here today-so I got these old bones moving and checked out the Horse. You guys all know what happens to decades old wiring when it is in a place it can vibrate right?- Yep- it broke. The wire bringing in juice from the solenoid thru the 25amp fuse to the Ammeter broke right up next to the fuse holder. Once that was fixed-still nothing-So I traced everything to an from the Ignition switch-then took the plug off the back of it and jumped between posts and could get everything to work. SO- either the switch is bad-or the terminals are super corroded. Tomorrow I'll take it off and really clean them up and test it for continuity. Thanks for all your help- I will follow up with pics of the repairs-Al Edited January 12, 2014 by illinilefttackle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #10 Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) Snowing and 25 degrees here today-more snow coming tomorrow-SO- the intrepid USPS guy dropped off my new switch for the C-125A. I fixed the wire to the 25 amp fuse power source for the switch-now to just plug this in with a little DI-electric grease and see what happens. I got it from a "Mini Bike Parts " place on Evil-bay. It was only $9 + shipping. As opposed to $25 from Partstree + shipping. Of course it is Stens- but curiously it says made in "US". Seems well made, says "INDAK" on it and the keys. Base is clearly labeled for reference. NOW- to get out there and finish it-Thanks-let you know how it works out-Al Kinda poor pictures- Edited January 16, 2014 by illinilefttackle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #11 Posted January 17, 2014 Al, you're on the right track with the new ignition switch. Indak /Stens is not a problem. Just stay away from the low cost stamped Stens front wheel bearings !!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #12 Posted January 17, 2014 Al, you're on the right track with the new ignition switch. Indak /Stens is not a problem. Just stay away from the low cost stamped Stens front wheel bearings !!! Thanks-I think I know why it failed-the battery has been losing charge lately and causing slower, more labored starting. If my memory serves me, one of my Pre-engineering courses taught of OHM'S LAW. Having said that- when voltage goes down, it takes more amps to do same work, overloading (heating) the switch. Still only 19 degrees out- haven't made it out to put it on yet-thanks again-Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
