replacing snowblower bearings

[Scotsman 46]

My 312-8 bearings where sparking because I lost a few ball bearings.

So I ordered the new ones.

But now I cant get the old ones off.

I  loosened the nut and bolts   by the main pulley,the one you loosen when swapping a belt,

I removed a set screw,the other one was empty as far as I could tell.

Removed the outer plate,took off  the master link in the chain,

now I am stuck.

I have tomorrow to get it,but I have a monster storm hitting New England Thursday,so I gotta get this right tomorrrow.

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi,your my only hope.

 

[squonk 39,011]

That bearing should have an eccentric lock collar. That empty hole you put a punch in it, tap with a hammer and turn the collar. then it will all slide apart.

Edited January 1, 2014 by squonk

[Scotsman 46]

Thanks a lot

Your a lifesaver.

I ll do it tomorrow

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,522]

To loosen a locking collar tap it in a direction opposite the normal direction of rotation. Once loose it should easily slide down the shaft. Early models used a bearing with an extended inner race and the set screws were in that.

 

Garry

[Rick_in_CT 156]

Ah yes, the secret locking collar.  This thread brings back some bad memories of my first encounter with it.  It was November 23, 2006 (did I mention really bad memories).  I was just starting to tear down a 44" blower that I had purchased for a total rebuild.  I got to the jack shaft with two of these bearings on it, and I couldn't get them to budge on the shaft.  Flanged bearings were nothing new to me, we used many hundreds a year building machinery at work.  We always made sure that the set screws landed on flats on the shaft to prevent damage to the OD of the shaft itself, which allowed for easy removal of the bearing when needed. 

 

I had removed the set screw, but it would not budge.  I could see the partially drilled empty hole, but just figured that for some applications they must add a second set screw, and a pilot hole was pre-drilled.  Plenty of rust on the shaft, so I figure that it is stuck on the rust.  Add liquid wrench, nothing.  Put some heat on it, nothing.  Last resort, hit it with a hammer, nothing.  Solution, cut the jack shaft.

 

It was not until I ordered the new bearings that I realized that these are "special" bearings, as I could now see the eccentric.  Where did Wheel Horse find these things?  Some engineer reached down deep to come up with these.  He must have had a catalog of parts used to build the vault at Fort Knox and picked the bearing used on the vault door hinge.  I bet he got employee of the month for this one.

 

I have attached a picture of the shaft before it met Mr. Hacksaw.  As simple as these tractors are, I always enjoy the thought and engineering that went into the design, and little details like this that make them fun (and lighten my wallet).  It provided maximum frustration at the time, but I learned about a bearing configuration that I would probably never see anywhere else in my lifetime. 

 

A reminder to Scotsman, when you reassemble the bearing to the shaft, don't forget to use a punch and rotate the eccentric to tighten it onto the shaft before tightening the set screw.  I always like to use some Loctite 222 or equivalent on the set screw.  Squonk, great reply to post, you really brought back some memories for me this morning, most of which I had repressed until this moment.  Thanks!!     

[Scotsman 46]

oh boy....

well I thought I had stripped the other set screw,so i went and bought a "remove broken screw"  bit.

That didn't do it,so out came the drill......

It got dark,so maybe I didn't do to much damage.

I have to take the wife food shopping now,and my mind will be back at home on my bearings.....

Oh magoo,you'v done it again

[Fun Engineer 859]

^{FYI  The service bulletin (issued Sept. 03, 1999)  for these snowthrowers recommends that the eccentric bearing collar be tightened with a small drift punch in the direction of the shaft rotation.}

 

^{That engineer must have found a deal on some very weird bearing collars.  Not real happy with this design.}

[oldlineman 1,450]

Not to butt in, but that type of bearing lock has been used on farm equipment for many years. I worked on a farm as a youth and changed many bearings with that type bearing lock. I think it is a very good design.   

[Scotsman 46]

I bought bearing #101480 according to the manual.

I hope they're right or I have to mcguyver them with a storm tomorrow

Any input is never butting in,and is always appreciated and considered.

thanks

[squonk 39,011]

Those bearings are used all over. We have them at work on exhaust fans. When I first started there we had 2 seasoned guys working on a fan in the shop. They wee beating the crap out of the shaft, had the rosebud torch out ect. I didn't want to ruffle any feathers but I noticed the lock collar was still tight. Got ou a punch and grabbed the hammer!   

Edited January 1, 2014 by squonk

[Scotsman 46]

This is what I took off,
And this is what I bought
I am screwed

it called for bearing #101480 and they guy said this is what came up under that number

of course they are closed today

Edited January 1, 2014 by Scotsman

[Rick_in_CT 156]

Scotsman,

 

When I go to jackssmallengines.com and enter 101480 it does come up with the new bearing that you show.  It refers to it as a spindle bearing.  Can you recheck the 101480 for your blower and make sure that it is correct.  Do you have the model number off of the blower?

 

The original bearing fits inside the flanges, this bearing looks to have a smaller outside diameter than the original.  The original bearing also has the set screw and the locking inner race, which anchor the shaft in position and prevent it from moving sideways in the bearing.  With the new bearing that you have, there is nothing to prevent lateral movement of the shaft.  You would need a separate shaft collar to make this work if the bearing did fit properly into the flanges.

 

My blower uses bearing number 110569, and when I look it up on jackssmallengines.com, they refer to it as a "bearing and collar".  I think the next step is to double check the part number called for in the blower parts manual.  If you don't have the manual, post the blower model number here and we can find the manual.  Unless they have discontinued the original bearing for your application, my first thought is that the 101480 number may be incorrect.

 

Per your picture, you still have the bearing inner race on the shaft.  The inner race is the part with the hole in it in the picture.  This is going to need to be removed before you can install a new bearing.   

 

Rick

[Rick_in_CT 156]

Scotsman,

 

I'm looking at your pictures for again, and I don't think that you have the two part eccentric bearing/collar arrangement.  It looks to me that your bearings are just an extended inner race with set screw.  This type would not require using a drift pin/punch to rotate the collar, as there is no separate collar to rotate.  It should be remove the set screw or screws and slide the inner race off the shaft.  If the inner race is stuck, you can try heating it up with a propane torch and then put vise grips or channel locks on it and see if you can get it off.  If that doesn't work, then a wheel puller may be needed.  You don't want to do anything that will expand the end of the shaft.  Worse case scenario is that you have to cut the inner race length wise to get it off.  Others may have additional suggestions at removal if it is stuck. 

 

Rick

[Scotsman 46]

Unfortnatly this is my decal.

It looks like ill be doing it in the snow.

thanks guys for the info

[squonk 39,011]

That new bearing you got is the Auger bearing for my blower # 79360 I think you need 110569

Edited January 1, 2014 by squonk

[Rick_in_CT 156]

Scotsman,

 

Is the blower a single or two stage (two stage has a fan that throws the snow, single stage uses the augers to throw the snow)?  What is the width?

[Scotsman 46]

Here is Excactly what I have.
Now I have to get one in my hand tomorrow

 

no i made a mistake its not mine

thank rick in ct

Edited January 3, 2014 by Scotsman

[Rick_in_CT 156]

Scotsman,

 

Take a look at the parts breakdown attached.  It is for a model 06-42SY01 42" single stage blower, 1983.  Does this look like your blower?  If it does, I think I see what is going on.  The bearing that they sold you is item #16 in the diagram, this is the auger bearing.  I think you need item #21, which is the bearing on the shaft near the sprocket, and I see a sprocket in your picture.  I also see item #18 which is also shown as an extended inner race bearing, but it is a different part number than item #21.  If you have a 42" single stage blower that looks like the one in the diagram, it looks like you need a #107744 Lutco ball bearing.  The bearing in the attachment from your post above is the eccentric bearing, which I don't think you have.

 

Rick

Snowthrower 42in 1983 06-42ST03 TIPL.pdf

[Scotsman 46]

I don't think that diagram has the triangle brackets like mine.

The thread I found is spot on

Thanks for your help

[Scotsman 46]

I am still not sure what model i Have.

none of the pictures have a triangle bracket near the bearing like mine

The guy I got it from had a 1968 tractor.

I forget what model he had.

Does anyone know a 1968 snowblower model number?

[Rick_in_CT 156]

Scotsman,

 

What is the width of your snowblower?

Does it have wheels on the sides or skids?

Can you measure the diameter of the shaft that the bearing is on?

[Rick_in_CT 156]

On the triangular bearing flange, is there any name or numbers stamped on the flange?

[Scotsman 46]

I'll measure it now

[Rick_in_CT 156]

Scotsman,

 

Not sure if this will get you any closer to finding the right part, but here are two pages from the Lutco catalog. I'm not saying that yours is a Lutco, but these drawings might help you verify the dimensions of what you have, and maybe we can figure it out from there.

Lutco 2.pdf

Lutco 1.pdf

[Scotsman 46]

the snowblower is 35 inches without adding the wings of course.

the bearing is about 1 3/4 inch

I think my snowblower is an st4201

Edited January 3, 2014 by Scotsman